Relief Valves into Injector Pump

I'm just about some pipping my little project. I had a custom coil made for my stove and am running it into my boiler to heat a small basement. I need to pipe out the relief valves for the system. I have one for the boiler, one for the storage tank, and one for the hot water heater and one for the domestic coils in my oil fired boiler. That makes a total of 4. I also have one my the stove by that is on the 1st floor. In any event I have a sewage tank and injector pump in the room with all these relief valves. It would be very convenient to pipe them into the vent line of the sewage tank. The vent pipe is 1 1/2" plastic pipe. I don't want to have to cut a tee for each relief valve. Does anyone have any suggestions? Do they make a manifold?

from what i understand the relief valves are to be open to atmasphere,,, as in above a drain or I run them over a five gallon bucket, you might want to check the building code

ted

I'm using a bucket now but with the coil in my stove the RV may actually blow and I'm worried it could overflow the bucket. The boiler can handle 190-200 degrees so it may never blow. I don't know.

traderfjp wrote:I'm just about some pipping my little project. I had a custom coil made for my stove and am running it into my boiler to heat a small basement. I need to pipe out the relief valves for the system. I have one for the boiler, one for the storage tank, and one for the hot water heater and one for the domestic coils in my oil fired boiler. That makes a total of 4. I also have one my the stove by that is on the 1st floor. In any event I have a sewage tank and injector pump in the room with all these relief valves. It would be very convenient to pipe them into the vent line of the sewage tank. The vent pipe is 1 1/2" plastic pipe. I don't want to have to cut a tee for each relief valve. Does anyone have any suggestions? Do they make a manifold?

According to code the discharge pipe from a relief valve needs to be open at the drain that collects the discharge water. The pipe also needs to be rated for the temperature of the discharge water. This usually means metal. The drain can be PVC. You can make your own manifold out of PVC tees and pipe as needed. I'm not sure what you mean by the vent line of the sewage tank. Perhaps house plumbing vent lines? If that's it, the answer would be no. It needs to go into a plumbing drain with a trap.

That ejector pit contains raw sewage and the vent from it contain sewer gas (methane). You would not want an open "T" in this pipe. Do you have a sump pit or laundry tub availalble? They can also run outside through a basement wall. As you extend them keep in mind the pipe cannot be reduced in size and must be metal. Actually, if your water heater is electric, you can use pve pipe for that one.

Yeah. The sewage gas is a problem. The appliances I want to vent are in a small room but there isn't a sink or room for one. Is it code that I would have to use metal? I would hate to have to run seperate lines for each appliance. It will look strange and cost some bucks since copper isn't cheap. Is this my only option?

Yanche: I have two PVC pipes running into my sewage pail. One foes into my cesspool and the other vents to the outside.

Metal is required for everything but an electric water heater. You can combine all of the discharge pipes into one common metal pipe but it would have to have natural fall like a regular drain.

Thanks for the info. I guess that is why my hot water tank came witha plastic drain. They have this new plastic pipe that is made for how water heat. I was hoping I could use this material. It looks flexible too which would make plumbing it out easy. I may just vent eveything into a platic 5 gallon bucket and then rig the bucket to drain into my sewage tank. I wonder if they sell small plastic tanks that are setup for PVC fittings.