Channing iii duct

Channing iii duct

PostBy: jason1515 On: Thu Jul 19, 2012 5:59 pm

I recently purchased a Alaska Channing iii. I plan to make a plenum on the top of the stove and duct it to my 1st floor.
I don’t know what side pipe i should run for my flex duct? And how much duct I could run with the 260(I believe)cfm blower on it.
And ideas or pics?
thanks
jason1515
 
Stove/Furnace Make: alaska
Stove/Furnace Model: channing III

Re: Channing iii duct

PostBy: WNY On: Thu Jul 19, 2012 7:17 pm

The 260cfm will not push a lot of volume over a distance, I wouldn't got much bigger than a 6". If you go bigger, it may just blow cooler air and wash too much heat off your stove. These stoves are designed for your living area, you would have to make a good Heat Jacket (Do Search for them on here) and put a bigger blower on it, it can be done, but depending on how much you are trying to heat upstairs, it may or may not work.
WNY
 
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Keystoker 90K, Leisure Line Hyfire I
Coal Size/Type: Rice
Stove/Furnace Make: Keystoker, LL & CoalTrol
Stove/Furnace Model: 90K, Hyfire I, VF3000 Soon

Re: Channing iii duct

PostBy: Ed.A On: Fri Jul 20, 2012 8:59 am

I don't know your square footage, but I've a raised Ranch 1650Sqft with finished basement and my Channing supplies my entire home with more than enough heat.
I've a laundry room downstairs that is dead center of the house, three floor vents (one powered) and 2 in-wall powered vents one that blows into my Taproom and one to the bedroom, the door is open to the foyer and up the stairs ...works amazingly well.

I'd wait until you fire it up this winter before altering the stove without knowing how it's going to perform in your particular situation.
Ed.A
 
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Alaska Channing III/ '94 Stoker II
Coal Size/Type: Rice

Visit Lehigh Anthracite

Re: Channing iii duct

PostBy: McGiever On: Sat Jul 21, 2012 11:11 am

jason1515 wrote:I recently purchased a Alaska Channing iii. I plan to make a plenum on the top of the stove and duct it to my 1st floor.
I don’t know what side pipe i should run for my flex duct? And how much duct I could run with the 260(I believe)cfm blower on it.
And ideas or pics?
thanks


As with sizing any pipe or vent...both the total length and total number of degrees in bends or turns will all add up to degrade the total capability of flow allowed...to say a certain size would work for your situation is highly variable.

You may actually need to work this out in reverse...

How long is the duct runs?
How many degrees in duct run?
How many cfm's being delivered are required for each duct run?

What size duct is required to deliver...with knowing all of the above?
What size blower/fan is required to deliver...with knowing all of the above?
McGiever
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: AXEMAN-ANDERSON 130 "1959"
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: HARMAN MAGNUM
Hand Fed Coal Stove: RADIANT HOME AIR BLAST
Baseburners & Antiques: OUR GLENWOOD 111 BASEBURNER "1908"
Coal Size/Type: PEA / ANTHRACITE, NUT-STOVE / ANTHRACITE
Other Heating: Ground Source Heat Pump
Stove/Furnace Make: Hydro Heat /Mega Tek

Re: Channing iii duct

PostBy: Bratkinson On: Wed Jul 25, 2012 4:40 am

As mentioned above, the 260 CFM convection fan that comes standard on the Channing III was too little airflow when plugged into the ductwork for my forced-air furnace. It could barely keep the living room directly above comfortable. I also found that the side of the stove got over 300 degrees when it was cranking at a '3' setting.

One of the dealer options when I bought the stove was to have a 6" hole and flange put into the top and a front 'barricade' added to prevent airflow out the front. Thus, all convection air went out the top pipe, in front of the chimney connection. As the attached sequence of pictures shows (http://nepacrossroads.com/about389-390.html, about 1/2 way down), I added a 'jacket' to collect the heat from the sides as well and send that upstairs. I also replaced the 260CFM fan with a pair of 405CFM fans, one for air across the top and one feeding the two side jackets.

One of the key factors you need to address is making a complete air 'circuit'. Simply 'pushing' warm air into a room will do very little unless the cold air has somewhere to go...preferably back to the stove. That's why I 'cut in' cold air returns to the stove into the cold air return ducts from the furnace, and use dampers to block off pulling air backwards through the furnace. Since you did not mention your existing heating system, I'll assume it's not forced air. So you'll be needing to cut in a cold air return or two, to complete the circuit. One note...someday, you may sell the house. So avoid cutting holes in finished floors or anywhere else that would be difficult to repair or leave an obvious 'blemish'.
Bratkinson
 
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Alaska Channing III
Other Heating: Gas FA
Stove/Furnace Make: Alaska
Stove/Furnace Model: Channing III

Visit Lehigh Anthracite