As mentioned above, the 260 CFM convection fan that comes standard on the Channing III was too little airflow when plugged into the ductwork for my forced-air furnace. It could barely keep the living room directly above comfortable. I also found that the side of the stove got over 300 degrees when it was cranking at a '3' setting.
One of the dealer options when I bought the stove was to have a 6" hole and flange put into the top and a front 'barricade' added to prevent airflow out the front. Thus, all convection air went out the top pipe, in front of the chimney connection. As the attached sequence of pictures shows (http://nepacrossroads.com/about389-390.html
, about 1/2 way down), I added a 'jacket' to collect the heat from the sides as well and send that upstairs. I also replaced the 260CFM fan with a pair of 405CFM fans, one for air across the top and one feeding the two side jackets.
One of the key factors you need to address is making a complete air 'circuit'. Simply 'pushing' warm air into a room will do very little unless the cold air has somewhere to go...preferably back to the stove. That's why I 'cut in' cold air returns to the stove into the cold air return ducts from the furnace, and use dampers to block off pulling air backwards through the furnace. Since you did not mention your existing heating system, I'll assume it's not forced air. So you'll be needing to cut in a cold air return or two, to complete the circuit. One note...someday, you may sell the house. So avoid cutting holes in finished floors or anywhere else that would be difficult to repair or leave an obvious 'blemish'.