My "new" Glenwood Modern Oak 116

echos67 wrote:I feel the same that less is more sometimes and I agree the vents being plated may be too much, at least for me

When you removed the handle did you heat the "peened" area on the back side that holds it in place and bend it straight to remove the handle ?
I am thinking reverse the process for reassembly ?

Mine was really easy Keith. It just has a hook on the top and a bolt/nut on the bottom. I could just remove the nut, pull the bottom out slightly (from the outside) and clear the hook. I assume your's is different set up and riveted?

Your very Fortunate, mine has a piece of the actual cast "peened" over the pawl for holding it in place.
Someone told me last year I could heat the peened area up enough to bend it straight and remove the handle that way, being very careful of course, then reverse to reattach. I am concerned with applying heat to a freshly plated nickel piece though so maybe I can grind it flush for removal then drill and tap for a 10/24 or something to use with a washer to reattach ? If I go the heat route I could always wrap the handle with a wet towel or something to try and keep the heat away from the nickel i guess.

Yeah I forgot that your top handle/load door actually locks closed like the ash pit door. Mine is just the lift and drop type into a V shaped reciever. It does look like allot of work to get it off for plating. How bad is the original plating? No chance it would polish up decent? Ammonia/water seems to help and then a polish. That's what I did with the 208C. Next year I may replate some parts but the originals came back fairly good with Barkeepers Friend or the amonia wash then polish like brasso.

there is no plating on it or the other handle whatsoever, and I did not see any traces where it had any before. I may take it off since it will be awhile before it is hooked up (hearth and nickel) and working and I'm not in a rush to use it for heat this year so I can take my time and be careful.


Check your pm's buddy, I sent you one several days ago.

echos67 wrote::D there is no plating on it or the other handle whatsoever, and I did not see any traces where it had any before. I may take it off since it will be awhile before it is hooked up (hearth and nickel) and working and I'm not in a rush to use it for heat this year so I can take my time and be careful.


Check your pm's buddy, I sent you one several days ago.

Resend, I don't see it?

Got pretty nippy last night dropping to 24 degrees here on the coast. I shook the MO116 at 7pm, filled with a couple scoops of stove coal and set the dampers for about 400 degrees. Came down this morning and it was 71 in the house downstairs which is perfect for me.
The kitchen was about 65 but that's normal and the cookstove was not on. I have a register in the kitchen, but it's room above is a storage room next to my bedroom that I don't use right now. I have a feeling(and I'm curious to see) if I opened the door from my BR to the storage room and opened the register, it would add the kitchen to the circulation loop and might take it up a few degrees but for now I'll just leave it till it gets cold enough to run the cookstove and then loop the whole deal.

what temp was the stove at this morning Steve?

PJT wrote:what temp was the stove at this morning Steve?

It was right at 400 degrees this morning PJ. Lots of fire left too, I would guess it took about 20lbs to fill it after a 12 hour night at 400. I almost think I could get away with this stove alone but the layout of the house is such that when it's real cold, the addition of the cookstove will not only fill out the cooler spots, but also allow me to run the 116 at lesser temps. I'll keep a record of what I need to run (temps to weather) and when I had to fire the cooker and how that effected the MO116 temps for me and anyone else who is interested. Maybe a coal usuage chart too. Now my OCD is showing .

no no no I must have OCD too cause that sounds like a really cool thing to plot out...run it for a season collect all the data then SPLURGE on a #6 base heater (burner? never know which name to call the stove William has)run that one for a season and compare coal usage and heating ability.....obviously weather conditions would need to be similar....

I'm interested in what you find out as well Steve, the info for temps to weather where the stove needs set at would be great.

Also it will be interesting when you do decide to use the range, maybe run the 116 up to 500-550 before firing off the Glenwood and what outside temps averaging at that point ?

PJT
The No 6 is a "base heater"

echos67 wrote:I'm interested in what you find out as well Steve, the info for temps to weather where the stove needs set at would be great.

Also it will be interesting when you do decide to use the range, maybe run the 116 up to 500-550 before firing off the Glenwood and what outside temps averaging at that point ?

PJT
The No 6 is a "base heater"

Yep Keith, I think that's a pretty good range point for the 116. If I can't maintain the house at that temp, add on the cookstove and dial it back to an easy 400 on the both. You get longer burns and less stress on the stoves. We'll see what that equates outside temps.

Steve, during Winter time, do you use the cookstove just for heating or heating and cooking? If so are these antique cookstoves hard to work with for the cooking jobs?

nortcan wrote:Steve, during Winter time, do you use the cookstove just for heating or heating and cooking? If so are these antique cookstoves hard to work with for the cooking jobs?

Pierre is going shopping again !!!!!!!!!!!!

Pierre,

The cookstove is a good heater and a better cooker! I'm the kind of guy that because it's on, I'm going to cook on it. While it is a little easier to cook with wood due to the faster response times, I have found that with coal, it cooks well too. I run it up to 350 or 400 (on the oven gauge) and then just find the right spot on the cooktop. The whole top is a burner, hot to cooler being left to right. Just slide the pan/pot till you find what you want. Baking, you just turn the bread 180 degrees at half the time. It really excels at slow cooking and braising in a dutch oven, but a cast iron fry pan has made allot of taters,peppers and onions.

echos67 wrote:

nortcan wrote:Steve, during Winter time, do you use the cookstove just for heating or heating and cooking? If so are these antique cookstoves hard to work with for the cooking jobs?

Pierre is going shopping again !!!!!!!!!!!!

Must ask the wife before cause I Should buy a ""new non-electric dishwashing device"" ...before.