My "new" Glenwood Modern Oak 116

Excellent Keith,

You'll get it done. When you talk to Emory about the fire pot refractory ask him about the plating too. I'm sure he uses the same place or at least one that does the same type work. Also you could try Mark MacGrath at the Love Barn stoves in Orland Me. He'll know that same plater too and he also has the refractory material (thats where I got mine) but its really heavy (read pricy) to ship. One box will be plenty for you but it's a little 12"x 10" box and it weighs 50lbs. Cool that you got the house painted though, I know what thats like. I do a side a year on this old place just so that I'll never have to do the whole thing again! Once you get that bad boy upstairs it's gonna be a knockout and heat the heck out of that place.

Thanks for all the info Steve, I will be calling tomorrow.

Decided yesterday to do the first burn in the Glenwood 116. It was a damp, rather breezy day and not too cold so I could keep the window stats ready to vent off the first burn after restoration smoke and smell. It was just a load of wood scraps from my shop and I took the stove slowly up to 500 degrees to get all that out of the way. It wasn't all that bad but did stink up the joint for an hour or so and put a haze in the room but that eventually cleared out the windows with the help of a pedistal fan. What was cool is the controllability of a well sealed stove. I could cut back or open the primaries and see an instant response. Even with cedar and 2x4 scraps I could hold the stove at 300 quite easy so with coal, it's going to be great. This morning now the finish on the stove is a flatter/duller black now that the "volatiles" have been cooked off. She's now ready to go when the time arrives. Pardon the crappy pix.

Cant wait to hear how well this stove stacks up to the base burners....keep us posted Steve!

Nice looking stove steve. Have been trying to post additional pics of "ruby rosemont" and the stone home I am working on but for some reason they will not load. Would love to see your old sea captians home!!

Very happy for you Steve. You did a good job on the stove and the results are super . So "warm" for the eyes to see a burning stove

Thanks Guys,
Yep I'm looking forward to putting the coal to er. I have a feeling it's going to be a fine stove and perfect for the space. While it's flame path is a few feet short of a baseheater's, It still has a good long path down and up the back pipe and has the same size pot as the #6. I don't think it will be to far off that gold standard. It's good and air tight and responded well to the inputs even with dry cedar scraps which love to rip. We'll see in a a few weeks I'm betting. Almanac is calling for a cold snowy winter this year.

Stove sure looks nice, great restoration for sure. Want to do another one ?

I hope your right about the cold snowy winter and I hope it shows up here too.

They look a lot better with a fire in them.

echos67 wrote:Stove sure looks nice, great restoration for sure. Want to do another one ?

I hope your right about the cold snowy winter and I hope it shows up here too.

Ha,ha,ha Keith, You know you can't wait to dig into that #6 and make her new again . It's a good plan to leave the nickel to last since it's cosmetic and pricy. You can always do it later if need be. The stove works just fine whether or not it shines. My little Star Herald just had the nickel parts rattle caned with "chrome" paint for the season. Now, it's going up over the barn to heat the apartment up there and when I send out a few pieces from the cookstove, those will go too.

wsherrick wrote:They look a lot better with a fire in them.

Sure do William. Really chomping at the bit to shovel some stove into it. Won't be long now! I found an old coal shovel from the old Maine Central railroad. It's burned in to the D handle. Has a new life now next to my bin. Two scoops fills the hod.

Your stove looks fantastic Steve, i could not see from your pics but I am sure your stove has the small cleanout door at the bottom of the indirect back pipe ?....if it does open her up a few times a season and clean it out you will get flyash down there that will build up over time, I clean mine every month and it can be done while it is burning just put her in direct draft while you do it and there will be NP's and the bottom will be cool enough to handle it with gloves on.....takes just a few minutes.

Tim wrote:Your stove looks fantastic Steve, i could not see from your pics but I am sure your stove has the small cleanout door at the bottom of the indirect back pipe ?....if it does open her up a few times a season and clean it out you will get flyash down there that will build up over time, I clean mine every month and it can be done while it is burning just put her in direct draft while you do it and there will be NP's and the bottom will be cool enough to handle it with gloves on.....takes just a few minutes.

Thanks Tim,

Yep it sure does have that clean out right on the bottom seat of the back pipe. Has the little half wingnut fasteners Glenwood liked to use. You turn it to the side enough for the door to drop open. The Herald had similar deal too.

Here are some suggestions. The liner in that stove is a joke. Trash it and get some new refractory material, Then send all four grates to Tomahawk foundry in Rice Lake and have them cast. The gears on that model are at the back and recast center bars often do not mesh with the gears on the side bars. The side bars will probably never wear out after being recast. The whole grate system is a pain to install on that model since they hang on two little hooks at the back. Best to lay the stove on its back and install them before the liner goes.

stovehospital wrote:Here are some suggestions. The liner in that stove is a joke. Trash it and get some new refractory material, Then send all four grates to Tomahawk foundry in Rice Lake and have them cast. The gears on that model are at the back and recast center bars often do not mesh with the gears on the side bars. The side bars will probably never wear out after being recast. The whole grate system is a pain to install on that model since they hang on two little hooks at the back. Best to lay the stove on its back and install them before the liner goes.

Hey Emory,
How's it going? I can imagine you are flat out right now with resto's.
As suggested, I did trash the old liner and did a brand spanking new refractory job on the pot. (pix was on the next page 2 or 3?) I also did as you suggested and have had copys of the grates recast. You're absolutely right about the gears and frame being a PIA to install. Especially by yourself.
It's pretty heavy to get up in there and hold with one hand while getting those pins in! I got it though and if ever it's out again I will tip the stove or at least have someone else reaching through the loading door and holding the frame up. I didn't recast the old gears because they have wear spots. I flipped them and they are working ok but I'd like to find a set of good ones (unworn) and use those for the new castings. I pinned them with bigger cotters so they don't wobble and that helped too. Glenwood seemed to learn their lesson on the base heaters and put the gears in front which makes allot better sense. Do you know if the gear sets are the same on the 114 and 116 models?