Keystoker Ka-6 Journey begins

It's official picking up Ka-6 this coming week. I'll have questions for sure, even though I have been reading allot of older posts. Once stove is in place my next project is coal bin.

Picked up boiler and just got done moving it into place. I'm surprised it went well without to much back pain.

Soon you will enjoy the comfort and economy of coal heat. Congratulations!

Well, do you have that bin built yet?

Pictures fella pictures!

Read the manual, go slow, and ask questions.

I'll be posting pics soon.

I don't know much about your installation site, but if possible I suggest a layer of 4" solid core cement blocks to set the boiler up on.
Mostly because without them, the boiler clean-out door is very close to the floor, perhaps even restricted. The very same for EFM bases, too.
I do the same for AA and AHS, but some folks set them flat on the floor....not good if you have moisture all the time.
Those bases won't last more than 30 years in those situations, AND will not be rebuildable.

Yes, I'm aware of the height issue filling the hopper if you are vertically challenged, or one of the old farts like me.(That is why they make augers...a no-brainer when the funds are available.)
Patio blocks will give you 2" if that is more favorable.

Also, leave plenty of room to access the rear stack, AND make it easy on yourself to clean and/or remove the stack for cleaning. An easy tip: When assembling the stack, it is easy to apply a liberal amount of anti-seize paste to the joints before you place at least 3 metal screws in each joint. If you don't do it then, you never will. The piping will disassemble as easily as if it were brand new. Otherwise let the banging and smashing begin!!!!!!
ALWAYS anti-seize the door hinges, latches.....any bolt you can see. The three bolts that hold the burn grates are something to become familiar with also. Easy project to remove and clean if you can remove them in a minute of less.....Also, please do yourself a favor and locate the air scoop and expansion tank somewhere OTHER than directly above the boiler, where sometime down the road, the vent will corrode up, druzzle some nasty water on to the top of your immaculate covers and leave you extremely PO-ed at you lack of thought about this VERY common issue. I see it daily, and only wonder why the previous plumber couldn't just move it away......monkey see, monkey do!

I'll ask others to add to this basic list when they have time. 56 here this AM....gets one to thinking about no humidity, no congestion, no mosquitoes...and the County Fair circuit. The damned bears are lovin' the corn RIGHT now!
They should be good and fat this winter! A 400 pounder walked up my front steps at 9:30 last night on the way to buffet night.

Wiz, your journey will be a long walk down a short road.

Rob R. wrote:Read the manual, go slow, and ask questions

Damn the torpedoes, Full speed ahead! Get that baby installed ASAP and then we will figure out what went wrong after it doesn’t work right. That is what this forum is for, to learn from others mistakes.

OK, to be serious, the KA-6 is very simple to operate and make water hot, how you plumb it to heat your house could be simple or complex but the stoker operation should always be simple.

The only exception I would take to whistlenut’s post is about removing the grates for routine maintenance. They are factory sealed and if you remove them they must be re-sealed properly or you will have problems, problems that you definitely do not want. Access to clean under them can be gained by removing the small secondary blower.

Another reason for allowing ample space in the rear, if you have and use the domestic hot water coil you need enough room to service it should it go bad or the gasket ever leak and need replaced. The coil is probably close to 3’ long.

I hope your project goes well, now is the time to get er done.

Thanks Gaw,Rob,whistlenut for great advice and info. Stove is up on 2 in blocks with enough room to work on unit but hopper will be close to bin. To gain room on hopper side I'll be putting removable boards on coal bin. Heading out to Central boiler dealer for 1 1/4 apex insulate pipe, got a 35 ft between shop and house. Then off to lumber yard to get supplies for bin. If I'm over looking anything please let me know

Thanks freetown fred

Hey, what am I, chopped liver???

freetown fred wrote:Hey, what am I, chopped liver???

Thank youuuuuuuu freetown fred

Isolation valves and unions are great for future service/upgrades. Floor mounted expansion tanks are nice, even better if they are setup for a midnight swap.

Update on my progress Boiler is assemble with a 6x7x10 coal bin next to it, only need to get access window done.. Waiting for backhoe to get apex in ground,then have friend to do piping. Oh yeah

Got conduit and insulated pipes buried today, know sitting with ice on back. Oh the pain better be worth it