g13nw00d-man wrote:I talked with Emory last week before I tore the stove down, He instructed me in the same manner you have William. Useing castable refractory molded to the new barrel. My heading to bryants tomarrow is not for that reason but hopefully to find the missing/extra parts I need. Emory mentioned that he saw a chrystal crawford 112 in there bone yard a few weeks ago. I will also be buying the castable there. I do have the old bricks, I thought about making a mold of the last row of bricks which are located just above the load door. and using pourable refractory because of its unifrom white color (it might reflect light out of the mica) but that is just cosmetic... Jason
Jason, that's not a bad idea. My Star Herald is exactly the same set up and has that same row of removable bricks up top too. I just "glued" those in with some furnace cement. Mine was refractory below that row also. It seems to me that once you attach the barrel to the ash pit base, that would be the time to do the refractory. Then after you've got it done, I'd go over that bottom seal again where the barrel and ash pit meet. Just due to the stress of applying the pot if you use the clay type. I do wonder though, if you could get a sonotube that was only an inch small than the barrel, cut it down to the proper height, seal off the bottom of the jacket and base and then just pour in the castable type? Once it hardened, when you do the curing fires, they would burn away the sonotube and you'd be left with your pot. Just throwing that out there, but if Emory says the clay type is doable and the technique to do it, I'd go for that.
When I did the cookstove firebox, I too was worried about the size of the box getting in the way of applying the "clay". It is even smaller than the inside of the Crawford, but the reach was easier. Thing is, you'll find that you really beat on it very hard. It's more like sculpting
and tapping into a smooth consistent shape.