Chrystal Crawford 112 Restoration

Dann757 · By: **Dann757** On: Wed Sep 05, 2012 10:20 pm

Jason, good luck with that awesome stove. I'd like to know how it burns. I've got an old Sears stove, totally basic but with a similar firebox. I've heard they burn a long time if you fill em up. The firebricks in it are curved and have similar wear.

I'd like to get it to burn slowly from the bottom up I think that's ideal. I can never get the Monticello stove to do that to my liking, it always seems to catch totally on fire within a couple hours. I must be giving it too much air, but I'm always afraid I'll snuff the fire.

SteveZee · By: **SteveZee** On: Thu Sep 06, 2012 7:43 am

g13nw00d-man wrote:I talked with Emory last week before I tore the stove down, He instructed me in the same manner you have William. Useing castable refractory molded to the new barrel. My heading to bryants tomarrow is not for that reason but hopefully to find the missing/extra parts I need. Emory mentioned that he saw a chrystal crawford 112 in there bone yard a few weeks ago. I will also be buying the castable there. I do have the old bricks, I thought about making a mold of the last row of bricks which are located just above the load door. and using pourable refractory because of its unifrom white color (it might reflect light out of the mica) but that is just cosmetic... Jason

Jason, that's not a bad idea. My Star Herald is exactly the same set up and has that same row of removable bricks up top too. I just "glued" those in with some furnace cement. Mine was refractory below that row also. It seems to me that once you attach the barrel to the ash pit base, that would be the time to do the refractory. Then after you've got it done, I'd go over that bottom seal again where the barrel and ash pit meet. Just due to the stress of applying the pot if you use the clay type. I do wonder though, if you could get a sonotube that was only an inch small than the barrel, cut it down to the proper height, seal off the bottom of the jacket and base and then just pour in the castable type? Once it hardened, when you do the curing fires, they would burn away the sonotube and you'd be left with your pot. Just throwing that out there, but if Emory says the clay type is doable and the technique to do it, I'd go for that.

When I did the cookstove firebox, I too was worried about the size of the box getting in the way of applying the "clay". It is even smaller than the inside of the Crawford, but the reach was easier. Thing is, you'll find that you really beat on it very hard. It's more like sculpting

and tapping into a smooth consistent shape.

g13nw00d-man · By: **g13nw00d-man** On: Sun Sep 09, 2012 7:58 pm

Sand Blasting,
Wow did the sand fly, I was cleaning sand out of places that should not have sand in them.... :woot:

g13nw00d-man · By: **g13nw00d-man** On: Sun Sep 09, 2012 8:11 pm

I could not find an original burner plate for chrystal. I did find a curner plate for a crawford 114 at Bryant's Stove Shop in Maine. It is a larger stove so it was larger. I used the steal piece that was on the stove when I got it as a template. I cut the iron with a angle grinder w/ a cutting wheel on it and then ground down the "lip" on the bottom. It fits like a glove.... :idea:

nortcan · By: **nortcan** On: Sun Sep 09, 2012 8:18 pm

You did a nice job on the top lid. :idea:

and for the metal cleaning
Same as you for the sand, when I finished the Sunny sand blasting, the ground was looking like a beach

Keep on posting photos.

g13nw00d-man · By: **g13nw00d-man** On: Sun Sep 09, 2012 8:21 pm

Done sand blasting,
Well almost, there is a little rust still on the ash floor I need to remove before paint. I am still waiting for the tin knocker.

.. Then I can begin partial reasembly. I have to send out nickel and castings..
Question-- What should I clean the iron off with before paint. acetone???
-- What brand of stove paint is best
-- What brand of stove cement for joints

nortcan · By: **nortcan** On: Sun Sep 09, 2012 8:48 pm

The sand blasting made a real changement: on the 4* photo, we can see your left foot after the job :lol:

On my stove, after the sand blasting I just blew the parts with air from the compressor then painted. Some like black polish but my stove has too many parts so I painted.
I apply a first coat with Rust-Oleum HT Stops Rust Black.
After I put 2 more coats with Thurmalox Stove Paint. Gives a piano like finish.
For the sealer, I used Rutland Furnace Cement, really smooth consistency and easy to use.
Please don't use HT silicone where the temp will be too high for it :roll:

Othe very good products exist and are easier to find in the USA than here in Québec.

g13nw00d-man · By: **g13nw00d-man** On: Sun Sep 09, 2012 9:27 pm

Thank you Nortcan,
I don't think I will use RT, as I cannot separate the two collars that fit together between the barrel and back pipe. Someone used RT to seal them and now I cannot get them apart. I need to figure out a way to separate them (re-assembly will be very dificult if I can't).. :mad:

g13nw00d-man · By: **g13nw00d-man** On: Sun Sep 09, 2012 9:29 pm

Oh ya,
I love to wear flip flops and paint my toes before sandblasting..

SteveZee · By: **SteveZee** On: Mon Sep 10, 2012 7:11 am

That Thermolox stove paint is top of the line stuff. If you are going to paint it, that's the stuff to use.

Excellent job on that top plate! Neat little sand blasting unit and I like that work table too, what is that? Keep those pix coming. Looks like you are doing a top notch job.

nortcan · By: **nortcan** On: Tue Sep 11, 2012 8:23 pm

g13nw00d-man wrote:Oh ya,
I love to wear flip flops and paint my toes before sandblasting..

Good one

g13nw00d-man · By: **g13nw00d-man** On: Wed Sep 12, 2012 9:49 pm

All the parts I need re-cast. They are now on there way to Cheese country, Thomahawk Foundry...

g13nw00d-man · By: **g13nw00d-man** On: Wed Sep 12, 2012 9:58 pm

The round great needed a little filling in of the pin that holds the fork. I used quik set JB Weld. The holes in the fork were a little blown out so I filled them in a bit as well allso some wear spots on the shaft of the fork. The small piece is secondary air damper on the load door, I broke it in half when I ground and punched the knob off it. So I JB Welded it back together and had to use JB to re make the nipple that alligns it when its in the door. I found the shaker tool at Bryant's Stove. It fit the fork and fit even better with a little grinding. It was all pocked up and the two tines on it where in bad shape so JB weld and some patiance with some sand paper and a dremel did the trick. I also had to grind the lid lifter to fit the particular one I made for Chrystal..

g13nw00d-man · By: **g13nw00d-man** On: Wed Sep 12, 2012 10:01 pm

Tomarrow UPS should pick up all the parts to be re-plated at New Chrome (Emory's recomendation)..

nortcan · By: **nortcan** On: Wed Sep 12, 2012 10:04 pm

Looks like that stove will be as a ""new"" Christal one. Nice job you did on it :up:

Chrystal Crawford 112 Restoration

Re: Chrystal Crawford 112 Restoration

Re: Chrystal Crawford 112 Restoration

Re: Chrystal Crawford 112 Restoration

Re: Chrystal Crawford 112 Restoration

Re: Chrystal Crawford 112 Restoration

Re: Chrystal Crawford 112 Restoration

Re: Chrystal Crawford 112 Restoration

Re: Chrystal Crawford 112 Restoration

Re: Chrystal Crawford 112 Restoration

Re: Chrystal Crawford 112 Restoration

Re: Chrystal Crawford 112 Restoration

Re: Chrystal Crawford 112 Restoration

Re: Chrystal Crawford 112 Restoration

Re: Chrystal Crawford 112 Restoration

Re: Chrystal Crawford 112 Restoration