Home heating Oil and off road #2

yes.

coalkirk wrote:Above ground oil tanks have a design life of 50 years. Most do fine for that period of time. But the water that settles to the bottom of the tank from humidity entering the tank via the vent will corrode it through eventually. There is a program funded by the home heating industry called "TankSure". It's an effort to prevent tanks from leaking which is always bad news. If your oil dealer participates in this program, they will use an ultrasound device to measure the thickness of the metal on the bottom of the tank in about 12-15 places. If all readings are within spec they will issue an insurance policy on the tank(I think it is free). Then every year when they do their annual service they retake those readings and if any fall below spec, they give you $1,000.00 toward replacing the tank. Here is a link to the program.

http://www.bostonenv.com/welcome/homeowners/index.asp

Just happened to get a flyer in the mail for that program. Not free though - company wanted $60 to check it out. Insurance company is now mandated by the state (shocker ...) to offer oil spill insurance. Of course, that ain't cheap either - think it was close to a grand a year.

I check the tank often, so I'm not worried about it blowing out on me. It's an old tank, so it's thick .. unlike the crap sold today. A new tank probably wouldn't last 10 years down there.

Absolutely. I know you guys will go nuts about not using the all steel tanks, however around here (near or at lakefront properties, you are REQUIRED to use the plastic wall Schultz type of tank. I have install over 50, and they are terrific ...and about $700.00. Containment is built right into the double wall tank and a gauge is standard that shows the level of the leak, if any. They have a Galvie frame, and no legs to fool with. All oil dealers have the info, but here is a link:
http://www.schuetz.net/schuetz/SCH%C3%9 ... 20systems/

whistlenut wrote:Absolutely. I know you guys will go nuts about not using the all steel tanks, however around here (near or at lakefront properties, you are REQUIRED to use the plastic wall Schultz type of tank. I have install over 50, and they are terrific ...and about $700.00. Containment is built right into the double wall tank and a gauge is standard that shows the level of the leak, if any. They have a Galvie frame, and no legs to fool with. All oil dealers have the info, but here is a link:
http://www.schuetz.net/schuetz/SCH%C3%9 ... 20systems/

Hey, that's something I may be able to do this tax season. Do you work in Jersey?

There's that buzzword again ........ sustainable.

Wonder what happens to plastic after 3 decades of touching petroleum?

German Company......they are smarter that the rest of us....EFM.....hmmmm.....not your typical dirt farmers. Read the literature, it is the real deal.....been around for a loooong time.

What exit IOF?

I'm On Fire wrote:I've been saying since 2006 that the furnace needs to be replaced, I also know the tank "should" be replaced. But unless someone wants to lend me...no give me, because I'll never be able to pay it back because I work my ass off to pay bills; the money to do it it's not getting done. And probably never will.

Considering the number of people switching to natural gas or LP, used oil tanks should be readily available. I don't know your area, but used tanks are readily available in my area for $150-$200, some are less than 5 years old.

Granby Tanks are popular in my area, and that is what is in my basement. Mine looks like this and is made in Quebec: http://www.granbyindustries.com/en-us/p ... tandard/24

I also treat my heating oil with a multi-purpose diesel treatment...which includes a corrosion inhibitor and keeps things clean. I don't think I would dare dump an aggressive fuel treatment in a 50 year old tank...I'd be scared it would dissolve sludge that is holding the fuel in the tank. My tank was only 9 years old the first time I treated the fuel, and the filter turned black with sludge in about 30 days...but the replacement filter has stayed squeaky clean since that time.

whistlenut wrote:German Company......they are smarter that the rest of us....EFM.....hmmmm.....not your typical dirt farmers. Read the literature, it is the real deal.....been around for a loooong time.

What exit IOF?

What interstate are we talking? If it's I-95 it'd be 10, then 287N to Rt. 23 North.

There's no easy way to get to my house.

Rob R. wrote:

I'm On Fire wrote:I've been saying since 2006 that the furnace needs to be replaced, I also know the tank "should" be replaced. But unless someone wants to lend me...no give me, because I'll never be able to pay it back because I work my ass off to pay bills; the money to do it it's not getting done. And probably never will.

Considering the number of people switching to natural gas or LP, used oil tanks should be readily available. I don't know your area, but used tanks are readily available in my area for $150-$200, some are less than 5 years old.

Heh, just hit Craigslist for the hell of it and found one near me for $120 same size as the one I've got in the basement too.

I should seriously do this. Then I can use the old tank to store coal in. Wouldn't need to clean it out either; I think. Let the coal soak up the stuff.

Make sure it has the outlet to the appliance on the bottom, not the side like Smitty's and pitch it at least 1/2" per foot toward the outlet.
use tape and "Gripp" on all threaded joints and you'll have no leaks or weeping. http://www.herchem.com/products/thread_sealants.html

GRRIP is a fantastic product...just don't get it on your hands.

whistlenut wrote:Absolutely not!

All codes say rigid ferrous metal pipe.

You can be assured the oil company checks before they fill it, and obviously the code enforcement officer has already been there. Lately the insurance companies have been checking chimneys and fuel storage...oil, propane and NG. ALSO alternative heating sources...for clearances and exhaust piping......

I have seen pvc pipe used, by homeowner of course, it is easy, and worked, heck it was only a vent, but definitely not nearly the proper, or safe method. slight pitch on schedule 40 toward vent whistle for oil vapor drainback.

Yanche wrote:For adjacent 275 gal tanks can the vent pipe be manifolded together near the tank and a single schedule 40 steel vent pipe exit the building?

The answer always used to be "yes", but now it's "Check the latest code". It used to be you could manifold two tanks as long as they used a 2" crossover and 1 1/2" vent, then they changed it to a 2" vent. Now they want a 2" vent on a single tank and this summer I heard a heat guy say they were about to make it no longer legal at all. Proposed is to have every tank with it's own 1 1/2" fill and 2" vent.

If any of you do as I did and throw the oil tanks out because with coal I no longer have use for it, be sure to remove the fill pipe or at least do something to make sure it can’t be used. A few years ago a local oil company pumped oil into a basement because the driver went to the wrong house and the house had a fill pipe but no tanks. I think it had been converted to gas. After doing a Google search it looks like this happens more often than you would think.

Here in nj if you switch to another fuel and the oil tank is not used for back up heating it must be removed along with all piping. Permits are needed for tank removal and insp. are done for all tanks inside, outside or underground. A few years back I was at a custs. house looking at another job and noticed a fill and vent outside. After getting into the basement saw that the tank was gone and the pipes had been cut off with a saw just inside the wall and in it's place was a HUGE wood stove. A hookup to the outside would have poured fuel right on top of the stove. I removed the fill pipe before I left.