Draft question

I got a Keystoker Koker last year and burned it with no problems. I went thru about 4 - 4.5 ton of coal. Getting a manometer this year the dywer 460. Never used one before so I have a couple questions that I am sure have been already asked at on time or another on this site.

1st Where do I check the draft in the pipe after the barometric dampner or at the fire box door. ( or both )
2nd What readings should I be shooting for on the manometer
3rd After I make adjustments how soon should I recheck

I am looking to try to get the best efficienty that I can get. I keep the house at about 72 degrees cause we have a small child.


Thanks Rich

Rich9876 wrote:1st Where do I check the draft in the pipe after the barometric dampner or at the fire box door. ( or both )
2nd What readings should I be shooting for on the manometer
3rd After I make adjustments how soon should I recheck

Between the appliance outlet and the baro, preferably in the center of a straight length of stove pipe.
That would depend on the weather and how hard it's firing. Rule of thumb is in the -.02 to -.06 range.
If you mean after adjusting the baro, immediately.

So between the stove and the baro. What if there isn't a piece of straight pipe. It elbows off the stove then into the baro to a straight pipe into the chimney.
Also to get the most heat out of the coal the -.02 setting would be better then the -.06 right?

Double check Keystoker's manual. The koker's draft is measured "over the fire" at a hole pre-drilled in the ash pan door. This is where you need to get your .02 measurement. Run a piece of flexible copper line (some use brake lines) from the koker to what ever rubber tubing comes with the manometer. This way you can have a permanent install and, at an instant glance, know what is going on with your draft. I would stick with Keystoker's recommended draft measurement, as they know their product best. Plus if you set the draft too high, you may inadvertently pull combustion air through the coal hopper and cause a hopper fire.

At work right now. I will check tonight when I get home. If I remember correctly the manual says to check the draft there but doesn't tell you what readings you should have the keystoker manual is kind of vague when it comes to draft. Should I have the combustion blower off when checking the draft?

page 11 under "cam melting" trouble shooting. Keep everything running, just make sure you have a good hot fire and the chimney is up to temperature. Don't worry about the piece of sheet metal over the ash door opening, the hole should already be pre-drilled on the right side of the neck that the door seals against.

Ok thanks everyone I will check tonight.

I have what I think is the perfect draft checking setup for my koker,

I have a Magnehelic (cheap off ebay) connected to a copper tube to the ash pan door.

I can see realtime draft which should be .02 for the koker.

Much better than using a manometer an no oil mess or adjustments needed.

Check out

http://www.keystoker.com/service-manuals.php

updated manuals are posted with clearer guidance concerning draft requirements

hey jrn i have just purchased a magnehelic on ebay too and am waiting for it to arrive, I plan on using the pre drilled hole in the ash door of my koker with brake line or copper tubing. Your reading is at .02 using this method?

Vulcan,

The reading will vary greatly depending upon outside temp, temp of stove, temp of flue, wind across chimney, etc...

but... the draft wants to be between .02 and .04 80 percent of the time at the hole in the aspan door. (called "across the fire reading")

I notice that on a real warm day my draft will fall down to .01 as measured at that door hole. (sometimes below if I do not keep the fire at at least 250 dgrees and clean pipes. with a temp outside above 70. This is when I have to be careful of CO!!

Other times when the fire is roaring and it is windy and cold outside the reading will sit around .05.

ok thanks for the info jrn

That low draft may be compenstated by adjusting the combustion shutter.....I posted a question on that to see if anyone has insights....

That new manual is alot better then the older one that I have. Thanks again Rich

Just wondering how far off was your draft?