Need Some Help Here.. Can't Get This Thing Lined up...
- I'm On Fire
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- Location: Vernon, New Jersey
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: DS Machines DS-1600 Hot Air Circulator
Ok, so I got the throat plate up. Hole in the center of it. Collar on it. I even have a 90º elbow that I cut down to 45º. I cut the straight pipe to where I need it. I put the pipe in the back of the stove and I put the 45º elbow up. And......
It won't line up. If I turn each of the individual collars on the 45º it either points down more or straight down. If I cock the elbow to one side it just falls off the collar on the throat plat. I can't move the straight pipe down any more on an angle because it pops out of the stove.
I can't spend any more money on bricking up the fireplace and putting a thimble in. I've got to get this to work. I'm however out of ideas. No matter how I turn this thing I can't get them to line up. I can't make the stove any shorter than it is.
So, below is a picture. Give me some ideas. Because I'm fresh out. Thanks.
It won't line up. If I turn each of the individual collars on the 45º it either points down more or straight down. If I cock the elbow to one side it just falls off the collar on the throat plat. I can't move the straight pipe down any more on an angle because it pops out of the stove.
I can't spend any more money on bricking up the fireplace and putting a thimble in. I've got to get this to work. I'm however out of ideas. No matter how I turn this thing I can't get them to line up. I can't make the stove any shorter than it is.
So, below is a picture. Give me some ideas. Because I'm fresh out. Thanks.
- whistlenut
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I am not exactly sure of your mission, BUT could you enlarge the hole that the elbow goes through to allow for some latitude in the install. I assume the steel plate bolts to the bottom of the fireplace opening, and you are making the transition and assembly point right there. My take is that you need some freedom in the opening size. It looks so tight that it is damned near waterproof. All that precision isn't helping you, you need some acceptable tolerance for movement in the assembly process. If I missed the intent, help me out with 'the mission statement', please.
- Dennis
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is there any chance you could cut down the top of a tee and have a clean out on the bottom and slide the stove pipe in the front, more of a straight shot(maybe). Is there any room for the baro and draft inducer also
EDIT: maybe shorten the legs or move the plate higher
EDIT: maybe shorten the legs or move the plate higher
- whistlenut
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One of the few times in life when 'loose' is far superior to 'snug'....................................................................
- I'm On Fire
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I could cut more off the pipe.
The plate is at a 60° angle. I didn't considering that when cutting the elbow down. I have a scrap elbow I can try cutting it on a 60° angle.
I just tried to change the angles and go looser on the connections to no avail. I even have a "T" but it's going to drop it even further.
There is no baro, there was one when I had the Chubby SR.then when I first installed the DS but I had problems with it so it got nixed. I was also trying to avoid a "T", didn't use when last season either.
The plate is at a 60° angle. I didn't considering that when cutting the elbow down. I have a scrap elbow I can try cutting it on a 60° angle.
I just tried to change the angles and go looser on the connections to no avail. I even have a "T" but it's going to drop it even further.
There is no baro, there was one when I had the Chubby SR.then when I first installed the DS but I had problems with it so it got nixed. I was also trying to avoid a "T", didn't use when last season either.
- I'm On Fire
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The legs from the factory are 4". Mine have already had 3" cut off of them. I couldn't cut any more off of them if I wanted to.Dennis wrote:
EDIT: maybe shorten the legs or move the plate higher
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Get rid of the throat plate . Run the pipe . Stuff insulation in the throat . Done . Simple .
- freetown fred
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Me thinx Dennis had a good idea w/ the T plus clean-out cap on bottom
- carlherrnstein
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It looks loke you need some flex chimney liner. Or if that is not possible you could use two adjustable 90* elbows and use them to "offset" the pipe.
- I'm On Fire
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I had thought about the flex pipe. I also considered two 90°s. I messed around with it a little more and with the 45° I got it to loosely line up. But, it pitched slightly back to the elbow. I should be able to push the back of the elbow up so it seals.
I still have a "T" that I could mess around with yet. Unfortunately the male end cannot fit inside the collar on the plate. I tried. The hole is too small. Unless I can crush it enough. I would however need to really cut the "T" down; at which point I'm not sure it'll even fit if I cut it down.
I do like the flex pipe idea. Anyone know where I can get some?
I still have a "T" that I could mess around with yet. Unfortunately the male end cannot fit inside the collar on the plate. I tried. The hole is too small. Unless I can crush it enough. I would however need to really cut the "T" down; at which point I'm not sure it'll even fit if I cut it down.
I do like the flex pipe idea. Anyone know where I can get some?
Attachments
- I'm On Fire
- Member
- Posts: 3918
- Joined: Thu. Jun. 10, 2010 9:34 am
- Location: Vernon, New Jersey
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: DS Machines DS-1600 Hot Air Circulator
Messed around with it a bit more. I forgot the front of the stove was on some scrap tile because as with everything in this house, the floor is uneven. I broke the scrap pieces of tile. But, I did get the pipe on with the ebow pretty good. I had to take it down so I could cut the hole for the draft inducer. Then I've gotta get some more scrap tile to Jack the front of the stove up so it's level.
m going to see if I can get the "T" to fit
m going to see if I can get the "T" to fit
- freetown fred
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Good, you're gainin on it.