Mano question?

Guys: I have the Hitzer 30-95 stove. Excellent draft, masonry chimney. I'm a bricklayer, 6" flue., & have new gaskets. I have a few questions.

1. When I do the mano test do you put the RC baro in a neutral position?
2. Should I test the mano without the barro installed in flue?
3. Do I set the barro with the same number that I get from the mano draft test?
4. My concern is flue temps of 220 - 230 when stove is idling.

Thanks for your help, Den034071 (Jack)

Jack, you need to set the baro first and then check the draft...adjust as necessary to get the reading Hitzer recommends at the flue collar (drill a small hole in the pipe).

If you set the baro weight to #4 or 5 it should be pretty close. Don't forget that the weight goes on a different scale depending if the flue pipe is horizontal or vertical.

Hi Jack....You mention a "mano test" a few times and I just want to be sure you are clear on something. (If you already understand this, then I apologize for stating the obvious!)

The manometer is calibrated to zero when it is level and there is no draft applied. I think it best to take all tubes off the ports to zero it. When that is done, there is no "mano test" while it is connected to your stove. It is simply measuring the draft.

The baro should be installed, mano tubing connected to the exhaust port as suggested above and then you just adjust the weight on the flapper so that the desired reading on the manometer is achieved.

Rob R. and Titleist thank you i apprecitate it, jack.

Hey Jack, I also noticed that if you get the manometer that uses oil in it like the Dwyer, the calibration needs checked several times during the first few days until it stablizes in its environment. I did this by pulling the hose off the stove pipe, zeroing it out and then putting the hose back on the stove pipe. It took me a few days till it didn't need tweaked anymore. After that, any time I checked the calibration it was zero and I was getting accurate draft readings without the calibration ritual...