custom water coil setup for Channing III

jpen1 · By: **jpen1** On: Mon Dec 03, 2007 10:40 pm

I just completed the install of a custom coil ( about 7' 2" inside the stove) which I connected to the wet base of my steam boiler. I was able to make a coil which required no holes in the side of the stove and has everything coming out the rear which was a must for the wife. Also the coil couldn't be visible from the viewing glass. So far the boiler has only run once to heat the water since saturday and that was because of back to back showers by the kids. I am able to maintain 160* - 170* temps in the water which is a little shy of what I had intended. I was shooting for about 180*. I think the only error is in the use of the taco 007 circulator. I shouldn't have let the plumbing place talk me out of the 005 taco or the three speed taco. I think the water is circulating to fast to get the most out of the coil. However my oil usage is down about 85% so I guess I can't complain to much. I added the heat collector fins this evening so the results aren't yet known on that. I hope that will put me over the hump so I can tell the oil man to take a hike next spring.

The cost of the project was $352.00 ,which includes the price of the coil. If any one has some suggestions of how to get some more out of the thing I am all ears.

jpen1 · By: **jpen1** On: Mon Dec 03, 2007 10:42 pm

more pictures

jpen1 · By: **jpen1** On: Mon Dec 03, 2007 10:45 pm

more pictures

LsFarm · By: **LsFarm** On: Tue Dec 04, 2007 12:46 am

If you want to slow the water down in the coil, just partially close one of the ball valves on either side of the 007 pump. You can close it way down if you want. But I'd measure the water temp coming in and out of the coil to see what you are gaining in temp .

Nice job on the plumbing.

Greg L

cheapheat · By: **cheapheat** On: Tue Dec 04, 2007 8:53 am

Hey Jpen that looks great! I too would like to eventually installahotwater coil in my channing, I was curious how you or who you had bend up that water coil? Jim

Matthaus · By: **Matthaus** On: Tue Dec 04, 2007 10:07 am

First class install Jpen! :woot:

As Greg suggested you can use the ball valves to find out if reducing the flow will help your situation. If it turns out it does you can also add a flow control valve. Your ultra clean and tidy install just begs for the most elegant solution. :lol:

Keep us posted on how things work out.

jpen1 · By: **jpen1** On: Tue Dec 04, 2007 9:57 pm

I haven't had a chance to see if closing a valve will help but I did gain buy adding the finned heat collector to part ofthe coil that is behind the screen support. Today I made a false roof and sides for the fins out of #7 ( mirror finish stainless) that I hope will reflect the heat from the fire back onto the coil. I sent an email to taco trying to find out just how much to large the 007 is for the head feet and length of lateral run I have. I think a watts flow control valve may be a goood idea as it turns out my dad had the same problem with a circulator on his boiler. That would also give me an easy way to drain the loop if needed. I left the boiler off all day and it seems no one has complained about not having enough hot water toothy

.

traderfjp · By: **traderfjp** On: Tue Dec 04, 2007 10:15 pm

You did an excellent job with the complete setup right down to the ties on the insulation. That was a great idea. My coil is coming out of the side of me stove. I'm debating on whether or not to use 3/4" galv/black pipe and then go to copper once the pipe is away from the stove or to just use copper right off the stainless steel coil. I'm just concerned that that solder joint may fail sitting on the side of the stove where it is very hot. What do you think? Also, how did you bleed the air out of the system?

Thanks

Matthaus · By: **Matthaus** On: Wed Dec 05, 2007 1:00 am

I've seen quite a few people use black iron at the stove, although I have also seen a fair amount of copper. As long as the pipe has circulating water in it everything should be fine.

I know there are many folks on here that don't like the idea of galvanized pipe or fittings any where near a stove or its piping system due to the poisonous gas that is made when it gets hot enough. Probably a good idea to stay away from it.

LsFarm · By: **LsFarm** On: Wed Dec 05, 2007 7:45 am

Jpen, here is a link to the pump spec curves. : http://www.blueridgecompany.com/documen ... eChart.pdf

There is so little difference in the output/head/pressure of the smaller pumps I'd just throttle the 007 pump you have, I've opened up these pumps before and the diffference is usually not detectable with out instruments..

Greg L

coaledsweat · By: **coaledsweat** On: Wed Dec 05, 2007 10:20 am

Don't use galvanized pipe for any plumbing in your home, most of it is crap. Galvanized stovepipe can overheat and vaporize the coating (I have done this, when the pipe turns yellow and cools, volia! no galvanized).

Yanche · By: **Yanche** On: Wed Dec 05, 2007 10:27 am

I've taken both a Taco 005 and 007 apart, the 005 has a smaller diameter impeller. Perhaps one less vane too, just don't remember exactly. In large industrial pump usage they sometimes "shave the impeller", deliberately make it smaller, to match a standard pump to the piping resistance and/or flow requirements. Doing so reduces the electrical power used by the pump. As Greg says just increase the system resistance with a valve.

jpen1 · By: **jpen1** On: Wed Dec 05, 2007 9:02 pm

I tried closing the valve off above the circulator some but it made no difference one way or the other in the temperature in the return line. Should I close the one where it returns to the boiler instead? Since it is a full port ball valve how far would be a good place to start with reguards to % open of the valve? Cheapheat the coil is one I designed and bent . I have it saved to a Autocad file I can send you the specs for the coil and mounting flanges. With the power bender we have I had to make it out of 2 sections because of interference with the bender. I then had one of our phrarmaceutical certified welders purge weld it together. Trader If you have any concern just put a little black iron pipe on it first it is cheaper anyway.

Matthaus · By: **Matthaus** On: Wed Dec 05, 2007 9:52 pm

IMO close the valve so that the output of the pump is restricted. Better to have it try and push the water through a smaller orfice than to starve the inlet of the pump (although it will have the same effect overall to close either one

).

As far as how far to close it you will have to just keep moving it a little at a time and observe the temp. I would not be in too much of a hurry to close it more until you are sure there is no effect. After all it might be that your flow is already the best it can be for temperature transfer. :lol:

warmnow · By: **warmnow** On: Wed Dec 12, 2007 1:46 pm

I also have a channing III, couple of questions. Would this type of setup work if I plumbed it into my natural gas boiler to feed
my hot water base board heaters? I have a ranch stlye house and the bedrooms are at the opposite end of the house from my
coal stove. If I could plumb this into my exsisting boiler I could maintain a little more even tempeture in those rooms.
Next question: Does the Alaska company sell this type off coil? Or Would you be interested in making one for me?

custom water coil setup for Channing III

custom water coil setup for Channing III

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Re: custom water coil setup for Channing III

Re: custom water coil setup for Channing III

Re: custom water coil setup for Channing III

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Re: custom water coil setup for Channing III

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Re: custom water coil setup for Channing III

Re: custom water coil setup for Channing III

Re: custom water coil setup for Channing III

Re: custom water coil setup for Channing III

Re: custom water coil setup for Channing III

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Re: custom water coil setup for Channing III