Removing a broken screw out of my Vigilants front door

Re: Removing a broken screw out of my Vigilants front door

PostBy: beemerboy On: Tue Oct 02, 2012 12:03 am

A couple of years ago I had a screw break off in the door of my SAEY. I ended up bring the door to a welding shop where they took a torch and heated the cast iron and was able to back out the screw stub. While I was there,I had him remove the other screws. Cost me a grand total of about $10.
beemerboy
 
Stove/Furnace Make: SAEY
Stove/Furnace Model: Hannover 1

Re: Removing a broken screw out of my Vigilants front door

PostBy: SMITTY On: Tue Oct 02, 2012 8:51 pm

I've got a bit of experience with this problem on cars, since I live in MA ... and as of late, the state has decided to use a "bare-road" policy when it comes to snowstorms -- read" MEGA salt assault! :shock: Since folks here can't possibly use common sense & drive according to the conditions ... but I digress ... :|

Many ways to tackle a flush-busted bolt, as was previously mentioned. I used to go the Easy-Out route, but I don't have the patience anymore ... and since I've broken more than my fair share of those off INSIDE the damn bolt that I was supposed to be removing - making drilling them out a slow, painful process - I don't use them anymore .. unless I'm 200% certain whats left of the bolt will come out easy.

The quick and easy route is what Richard suggested -- just hog it out with a drill, one, or 2 sizes bigger & tap the threads & install the bigger bolt. The other option if you want to still use the same size bolt is to drill for a Helicoil, or a Time-Sert. I'm partial to Time-Serts, but they are VERY expensive ... but by that same token, they are VERY strong, and will outlast anything you install it in. I've managed to yank out a few Helicoils accidentally, but have yet to damage a Time-Sert in any way, shape or form. The other option is the EasyOut, but you need to drill DEAD CENTER of the bolt. Not easy without a punch. I've never used a punch .. and I've never had it dead center... which could explain a few of my EasyOut failures ... but anyway, it's another option. Choose what you will. ;)
SMITTY
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: Patriot Coal - custom built by Jim Dorsey
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Harman Mark III (not currently in use)
Coal Size/Type: Rice / Blaschak anthracite
Other Heating: Oil fired Burnham boiler

Re: Removing a broken screw out of my Vigilants front door

PostBy: stovepipemike On: Wed Oct 03, 2012 7:16 am

I have had little success with the easy out route and as a matter of fact I no longer consider their use because my success rate has been so dismal.I use a freshly sharpened drill bit and take lots of time to get the center punch "on center". I once drilled out a 1/4-20 bolt so precisely that all I had to do was get the dental pick and lift out the threads before installing the new never seized bolt.In about 50 years of wrestling with snap-offs that only happened once and stands out .I always try to get that to happen again but it hasn't yet. Go for the drill,get the drill size correct for the task,and get an accurate center punch,it is your best bet. Mike
stovepipemike
 
Stove/Furnace Make: Keystoker
Stove/Furnace Model: KAA-2

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