Iron Build up in Copper Water Pipes

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AA130FIREMAN
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Post by AA130FIREMAN » Mon. Oct. 08, 2012 10:36 am

I have iron, etc. build up in my copper water pipes 3/4", they are down less than 1/2" close to my well pump. Is their any way to clean out the pipes besides cutting them open and pushing something threw the pipes.

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Berlin
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Post by Berlin » Mon. Oct. 08, 2012 11:49 am

Muritic acid?? In my experience it tends to dissolve rust VERY quickly but affect copper at a very slow rate. However, you'd better have some way to blow out all the loosened crud once that happens.

 
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AA130FIREMAN
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Post by AA130FIREMAN » Mon. Oct. 08, 2012 12:06 pm

Berlin wrote:Muritic acid?? In my experience it tends to dissolve rust VERY quickly but affect copper at a very slow rate. However, you'd better have some way to blow out all the loosened crud once that happens.
That thought crossed my mind, but I'm afraid of contaminating the well, drinking water.

 
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freetown fred
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Post by freetown fred » Mon. Oct. 08, 2012 12:45 pm

PIA & I might just be blowin smoke up your skirt--BUT--if you don't take the pipe apart, you'll never KNOW you got it right--on reinstall, can you put a quick connect of some sort close to the well?--SURPRISE, BUT, you'll have to do it again at some point. Do it right the first time AA--I re-emphasize--PIA


 
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Berlin
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Post by Berlin » Mon. Oct. 08, 2012 12:48 pm

none of the byproducts of HCL attacking rust or copper or anything else should "contaminate" your well water in any way.

 
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Yanche
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Post by Yanche » Mon. Oct. 08, 2012 12:55 pm

Re-pipe with plastic. I used schedule 40 PVC for cold water and CPVC for domestic hot water. Solved my acid well water (ph=5.7) etching holes in the copper pipes and fittings. It was a lot of work but worth it. Also consider plastic valves, in my case it's the only valve that will last. Metal valves leak in less than 5 years.

 
Dann757
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Post by Dann757 » Mon. Oct. 08, 2012 1:58 pm

AA130FIREMAN - from the way you have your setup in your avatar, I'm sure you'll find a way to straighten everything out. Not much knowledge here, but are there any dissimilar metals coming into play? I repaired some old galvanized steel plumbing once, with new copper pipe; and it seemed to get worse. Galvanic action or something. I saw a system for automobiles once, it was supposed to prevent rust and corrosion by keeping a small current flowing through the vehicle. Not sure of the science, but it repels electrons or something.

I've put muriatic acid in my truck cooling system in the past, to try and dissolve buildup. Get it circulating and let it sit for a while, then flush it all out.
I put Draino crystals in my brother's old house kitchen drain once, and the drain downstairs was so weak it ate through it hahhahaha more than I bargained for. I have chinese plastic ball valves on the 1" hdpe water line coming into this place. They seem so cheap and flimsy but have held up fine for a few years. When I attach hdpe line to any barbed connection, I soften it with a heat gun and clamp it quickly to ensure a good seal.
Excellent photo of the inside of that pipe by the way :D
Good luck!

 
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plumb-r
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Post by plumb-r » Mon. Oct. 08, 2012 8:01 pm

On tankless water heaters we use white vinegar and circulate it for awhile to clean out the coil. Its a mild acid that won't kill you if your not able to flush it all out. ;)


 
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europachris
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Post by europachris » Tue. Oct. 09, 2012 9:27 am

Yanche wrote:Re-pipe with plastic. I used schedule 40 PVC for cold water and CPVC for domestic hot water. Solved my acid well water (ph=5.7) etching holes in the copper pipes and fittings. It was a lot of work but worth it. Also consider plastic valves, in my case it's the only valve that will last. Metal valves leak in less than 5 years.
Don't they have systems that bubble the water through a bed of limestone to neutralize the acidity of the water? (You might have even mentioned that in another of your excellent water postings....)

Residential well systems are a PITA. Out in this neck of the woods we have water over 30 grains per gallon and a LOT of clear iron. If you fill up a kiddie pool and let it sit for a few hours in the sun, the water will turn a nice rust color. Some homes have built-in sprinkler systems and if the water hits the house siding or mailbox, it quickly lays down a nice coating of rust that is almost impossible to remove. The water softener deals with the iron fairly well, much to my amazement. I don't have any issues with staining of sinks or toilets. I did add a whole house "big blue" filter before the softener and after six months the element is just black and nasty and there is an amazing amount of garbage (black flakes, sand, and other crap) in the bowl. I don't have any issues with rust buildup in the pipes, though, even straight out of the well. When I cut in the filter to the 3/4" copper, there was just a black film inside. It's almost like soot. Nasty.

Chris

 
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mozz
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Post by mozz » Tue. Oct. 09, 2012 5:37 pm

Any way to get a jetter nozzle in there? I bought the setup for my pressure washer, hose and nozzle kit, can't remember the website. You can get 1/4" hose and nozzles, I don't know the outside od".

 
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Post by Ed.A » Tue. Oct. 09, 2012 7:26 pm

Looks just like my parents house plumbing....they re-did all the lines installed filtering unit and solved everything...until thier house burned to the ground.

That's a different story though, cracked Chimmney liners can be dangerous especially with Wood Stoves.

 
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Post by McGiever » Tue. Oct. 09, 2012 8:47 pm

It's one thing to clean the pipes for now, but the well (source of iron) needs to be corrected to have any long lasting results.
See link below:
http://www.ehow.com/how_5687407_kill-iron-bacteri ... water.html

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