Question for Cap

Sorry Coal Berner I did post a reply but it's not here, guess I didn't push right button. I used to help a local miner when I was still in highschool, graduated in 76 then worked in the mines until 89. Anything on my questions about mountain stone cellar walls, and the cast iron radiator. Roger is soon going to retire over at Superior

I have coal ash blocks in my place and really don't have a problem with heat loss how about framing it out with 2x4 and putting some insolation up between the studs or drywall then you will keep all of the heat inside and upstairs put some floor registers in Yea I know Roger is ready his been doing for sometime now if you use a old hotwater tank you will have alot more hotwater stored and ready to use you could also still use the radiator for extra heat down there just make a loop cold in hot out into the tank tee it off to your house line & radiator use ball valves if you have to much hot water dump it in to the radiator if not enough then shut it of to the radiator and dump it back in the tank it will depend on how much hotwater you use in a day or how much the stove can make keep warm talk to you later

It took me 2 years to clean the cellar walls off and repoint them. The old mountain stone, laid up with topsoil and lime, and then parched on the inside. I repointed with type s concrete, and added another zone with a cast iron radiator, made a big difference. (I can't wait to get a coal burner down there), It used to be a real damp cellar before I did the work. Turned out really nice. I'm not going to cover it up. Oh and that's what I had in mind with the temp tank and the cast iron radiator. I'm going to get started as soon as the weather breaks this spring I have to put up a chimney. Would the standard 8"x8" flu be ok or should I go with the bigger one, I think they are 8x13 or something like that? I'm planning on getting a Harmon sf 250.

I just posted this on one of the other threads, but it's worth having in several places. It's about wood burning chimneys, however all of the principles apply to coal, as well. Read the links on the left, also.

While all of the chimneys I've built, have been on outside walls, I think, a lot of problems might be eliminated by putting it on an inside wall.

http://www.woodheat.org/chimneys/chimneys.htm

pa coal cracker wrote:It took me 2 years to clean the cellar walls off and repoint them. The old mountain stone, laid up with topsoil and lime, and then parched on the inside. I repointed with type s concrete, and added another zone with a cast iron radiator, made a big difference. (I can't wait to get a coal burner down there), It used to be a real damp cellar before I did the work. Turned out really nice. I'm not going to cover it up. Oh and that's what I had in mind with the temp tank and the cast iron radiator. I'm going to get started as soon as the weather breaks this spring I have to put up a chimney. Would the standard 8"x8" flu be ok or should I go with the bigger one, I think they are 8x13 or something like that? I'm planning on getting a Harmon sf 250.

Ok Graig I just read about all of the work you did I would not cover it either I think you got it pretty well sealed you should not have a problem aslong as it is sealed up good It could also help to keep it warm once the stone heats up it may hold the heat in The sf 250 is a real heat machine it put out the B.T.U.'s I think it will hold 100 lbs of nut they rated for 3000sq.ft should not have any problems keeping the place warm keep intouch

Hi Dallas thanks for the reply and the link I don't have much choice I have to go with the chimney outside, the sf 250 has a 6" flue so I'll get the 6" flues for inside the chimney block what do you use to insulate between the block and the flue? We have those bobcats here in Hegins too, but they don't come up and sit on our steps. Thanks again, Craig

Well, I'm by no means a "professional", when it comes to chimneys.

Being aware, that "insulated" helps, I'd look at the options, talk to the pros, etc.. Thinking out loud, chimney blocks for 8" x 8" flues, using 6" x 6" flue liners and fiberglass insulation around the flues. ?? .. or, just air! Some of the metal pipe products. ??

"Outside" chimneys aren't the end of the world, but can be more temperamental.

Hey pa just put a 8 to 6 reducer collar on the stove and keep everything 8 in. run it right in the chimney

pa coal cracker wrote:I'm going to get started as soon as the weather breaks this spring I have to put up a chimney. Would the standard 8"x8" flu be ok or should I go with the bigger one, I think they are 8x13 or something like that? I'm planning on getting a Harmon sf 250.

While I don't know your specific home heating if you are going to build an new masonry chimney consider making a dual flue chimney. I know it's more expensive and more work but it gives you the option of have a second fuel appliance. For example you could run an oil fired boiler into one flue and your coal stove/furnace/boiler in the second. This permits designing a system with automatic switch over should the coal fire go out. Fire code requires a independent chimney for each solid fuel appliance. I'm not saying this is the only way it will work but that's what todays fire code requires. Usually a dual 8"x8" flue is ideal. Check with Harmon for there specific flue requirements.

I checked in the Harmon manual they recomend a minimum 8"x8" flue, also got this from another source to put sand between the flue and block for insulation.