Coal burning in between hopper and stove.

Hi I'm new to having a coal stove. I have the Alaska Channing III that came with my house. I got the stove burning last night but when i woke up this morning i checked on it and noticed a glow coming from infront of the hopper. I have attached a picture of how the coals are burning in the stove. Is this a feed rate issue or is the seal there bad?

Check the rear grate seal/gasket. That grate should fit tight..
Did you ck the grate seal before you fired it? It appears the fire is walking back towards the hopper. How is it exhausted? Power or natural draft?
I would remove that grate and confirm proper sealing. The correct gasket will have a strip of metal through the gasket.
I ask about the draft because I have seen a hopper fire from someone not using a draft gauge and running a power vent at full tilt.

The stove was inspected in July and they told me everything was in good condition. I can move the grate forward but I can not push it back at all. It has the rope gasket like what is on the doors. It does have a power vent but I had the stove running last week and it was all burning fine and only on the grate but I ran out of coal and it burned out. I am going to let it cool down and remove the grate to check it out, maybe it is not sitting properly.

Well I got the grate out and the seal looks perfect but the hopper where it meets looks like it has bent upward

Welcome to the forums You be glad you found it. I'am not much help with your problem. I see that your stove came with the house and we all want to make sure the house came with working CO detectors as well??

BD

I think someone asked if this is a chimney vented stove or power-vented. It seems the feed works fine, and the air is sure puffing up the fire, but my .02 says too much air is being sucked or blown through the grate, OR there is an air adjustment wide open.
Either way, I'd be shutting things down unless you want a hopper fire. (You don't) If your feed rate were that great, and the fire as intense as you picture indicates, it would be 110 degrees in the room where the stove is.

First look for an air adjustment, or hopefully someone who knows Alaska's will chime in, but you sure don't want 50 lbs of rice coal on fire in the hopper. "The Hook and Ladder Co" might not be as gentle as you can be.....plus all the paperwork, questions, satellite truck...anti coal guys picketing......

The stove is power vented, and yes the house did come with CO detectors. I had been up with the stove watching it to make sure everything was ok with it when I noticed what was going on so it only burned that way for maybe 20 minuets, then I shut it down. Well I did find my problem, the gasket at the back of the stove was replaced upon the inspection I had done and it appears that it was extremely loose in the middle causing air to get in. Not only that but one of the bolts holding it on was broken off. I called the company that did the inspection and they informed me that that person no longer works with them.

Great news! It always seem to be about the air, in whatever type of coal burner you have. Perhaps the bolt can be re-drilled and replaced, but now you know where to look, and remember that a tube or can of anti-seize from the parts store or hardware store is essential when replacing anything that can rust or corrode. PB blaster is a great rust penetrant and available, for the 'before the job starts', however it does smell 'different'. Hopefully you have the tools to keep warm now, and don't be afraid to ask more.....or share comments.

Having a Channing III myself, I can say unequivocally that you have a problem with air coming through the hopper, causing the hopper fire. Finding that bolt that was broken off is definitely the cause.

For what it's worth, I found a 'bolt & screw remover' tool at either Lowes or Home Depot a couple of years ago...or was it Ace Hardware? I'm not sure. Basically, it's a reverse-drilling drill with a reverse-thread tap on the other end. Once tapped, reverse-screw in the 'remover' and the bolt comes out cleanly. I was quite surprised how easily it did the job.

As far as putting all the gasketted fittings together at the back of the stove, pay extra attention to the gasket between the bottom of the hopper and the top of the feeder mechanism. Sometimes 1/4" difference is the difference between having it 'settle in' and seated crooked. I also found the need to put 5 or 6 washers between top of the hopper and the back of the stove where the mounting bolts screw in. I wasn't having an air infiltration problem, but I figured it should be square to the back of the stove, to properly align at the bottom with the feeder. Note...you'll have some choice words when trying to put the bolt, with 5-6 washers on it, into the little hole in the back of the stove and a couple of washers drop off.

Enjoy your warm winter!

Great. I'm glad you found the problem. Well done.

Also the gasket on the back must be whatthey call a strong back gasket with the metal strrip running through it. Also you draft must be checked and the power vent must be setup properly.