Lets start with the smoke and funny smells...that is normal for a new boiler with fresh paint. It will quickly subside.
As I recall, your house has a large amount of cast iron radiation, with large diameter piping. This type of system takes time to get up to temperature, and once it does...it is best to tweak the thermostats and leave them alone. You can buy wireless thermostats, I installed one in the nursery in our house so I could properly control the temperature of the bedrooms. Previously the thermostat was in the hallway and always got influenced by the heat coming up the stairwell. Pulling wire through two stories of plaster and lathe didn't sound like fun, so I spent the $200 on a wireless Honeywell thermostat system.
Because of the large amount of water in your radiation, the boiler needs to be piped with either a bypass, or a primary/secondary arrangement so the boiler doesn't get flooded with cold water. If they installed a bypass, you may need to adjust the valves slightly so the boiler doesn't get "slammed" when a circulator kicks on.
GoodProphets wrote:I know 4 and 4 settings work for for alot, but if it does, do you ever need to increase feed/air during cold snaps or heavy winds?
4/4 does work for a lot of people, but don't worry about being in that club...adjust the feed as your needs require. I run my 520 at 5 teeth, and it gets a good workout in January. 3 teeth is barely adequate for just domestic hot water production for a family.
GoodProphets wrote:Now, with the high set at 170, and it is idling at 180, that timer/relay is lighting up but not cycling.
IS this normal? Or should worry about fire going to worm tube>
Yes, that is normal. When the boiler temperature exceeds the high limit setting the timer will not be able to operate the stoker. That in itself will not make the fire burn into the tube, that usually results from too much air and not enough coal.
EFM's recommend settings in the manual work pretty good for most applications...I would start there. 160 low, 200 high, 10 differential. 2 minutes/30 for the timer might be a little much, but if your chimney drafts well it won't matter if a few timer cycles get skipped.
It takes a lot of coal to get a system like that up to temperature, just like getting a train up to speed. Try 5 teeth and 4.5 air, and force the stoker to run for 30-40 minutes straight...at that point the fire should be the same size as the burner plates (about 2" of ash around the orange spot). If the burning coal is creeping on the ring around the plates, bump the air up by 0.25 and repeat the test. If after a few days you think the boiler output is lacking, try 6 teeth and 5.25 air.
Pictures of your boiler piping and fire appearance would be great.