grumpy wrote:Is the install going to be inspected, did you pull a permit?
I was not planning on either, have some insight I may need before proceeding ?
I also plan on taking this stove when we sell this house so all that will be left is the hearth.
grumpy wrote:Is the install going to be inspected, did you pull a permit?
Smokeyja wrote:Keith it looks great and I hope you are having fun with the restore. I dont think you need to worry about an inspection or permit I don't know how MD works but the only time we need them here in VA is if a company is doing the work . Permits are just a way for the counties to make more money .
As far as anyone is concerned the stoves came with the house.
echos67 wrote:Smokeyja wrote:Keith it looks great and I hope you are having fun with the restore. I dont think you need to worry about an inspection or permit I don't know how MD works but the only time we need them here in VA is if a company is doing the work . Permits are just a way for the counties to make more money .
As far as anyone is concerned the stoves came with the house.
Thanks Josh,
The stove restoration was a lot of fun, just need to send out the nickel parts for plating now, and I got pricing back today for that so I just need to verify a couple things before shipping off. I see you have a new project, the Zepher looks nice.
I really don't need an inspector here and finding other items to flex his authority on if you know what I mean, so common sence will probably have to prevail and that's why I am seeking information.
The window trim has me a little baffled but maybe the coil stock wrap with an air gap between it and the trim is ok ?
Smokeyja wrote:echos67 wrote:Smokeyja wrote:Keith it looks great and I hope you are having fun with the restore. I dont think you need to worry about an inspection or permit I don't know how MD works but the only time we need them here in VA is if a company is doing the work . Permits are just a way for the counties to make more money .
As far as anyone is concerned the stoves came with the house.
Thanks Josh,
The stove restoration was a lot of fun, just need to send out the nickel parts for plating now, and I got pricing back today for that so I just need to verify a couple things before shipping off. I see you have a new project, the Zepher looks nice.
I really don't need an inspector here and finding other items to flex his authority on if you know what I mean, so common sence will probably have to prevail and that's why I am seeking information.
The window trim has me a little baffled but maybe the coil stock wrap with an air gap between it and the trim is ok ?
So the coil stock you are speaking of is just rolled flashing correct? I just wanted to make sure we are talking about te same stuff here. Are you planning on using it around the sides closest to the stove and break it 90 over the trim while leaving a 1" gap around the trim? And then are you placing the hardie backer right up to the window edge and then the masonry over that?
Or am I way off? And what about the coil stock has you baffled?
If you are putting masonry right to the edge of the window why not pull the trim off the one side put the backer up to it and then the flashing. That way you don't have to try and cover the trim.
Smokeyja wrote:Awesome! I'm glad I could help.
I know how it is. I'm still stuck on what I'm doing for my wall and hearth.
Btw they should sell flashing prebent at different lengths, in white , if you didn't want to mess with putting a break in the coil stock.
SteveZee wrote:I have slate tiles surrounded by bricks on my "stage" as we call it for the 116. I used some small rubber pucks under the feet to avoid scratching. Same with the Hod too. It sits on a spare piece of tile next to the stove. Just avoids scratching up the slates.
echos67 wrote:SteveZee wrote:I have slate tiles surrounded by bricks on my "stage" as we call it for the 116. I used some small rubber pucks under the feet to avoid scratching. Same with the Hod too. It sits on a spare piece of tile next to the stove. Just avoids scratching up the slates.
I thought of doing brick, it would actually match the fireplace at the other end of the house but man doing individual bricks would be a lot of work, very tedious and time consumingso I'm thinking tile in a size of 12x24 to make the install quicker.
The hearth or "stage" is around 66"x66" I will have the final dimension when I get the tiles on hand but I think it's big enough to make the 12x24 tile size look good, and it isn't the more common 12x12 size that way.
Good idea on the rubber pucks, I will use that idea.
How high is the stage Steve, I was thinking mine will end up around 7" above the floor. Is this good or should I make it higher with 9' ceilings ?
SteveZee wrote:Keith, Mine is one brick tall laid on end which is about 7 &1/2".
Smokeyja wrote:echos67 wrote:SteveZee wrote:I have slate tiles surrounded by bricks on my "stage" as we call it for the 116. I used some small rubber pucks under the feet to avoid scratching. Same with the Hod too. It sits on a spare piece of tile next to the stove. Just avoids scratching up the slates.
I thought of doing brick, it would actually match the fireplace at the other end of the house but man doing individual bricks would be a lot of work, very tedious and time consumingso I'm thinking tile in a size of 12x24 to make the install quicker.
The hearth or "stage" is around 66"x66" I will have the final dimension when I get the tiles on hand but I think it's big enough to make the 12x24 tile size look good, and it isn't the more common 12x12 size that way.
Good idea on the rubber pucks, I will use that idea.
How high is the stage Steve, I was thinking mine will end up around 7" above the floor. Is this good or should I make it higher with 9' ceilings ?
What about some natural stone tile? You can also get brick siding which is real brick but cut a little over a half so it be pretty easy to lay.
Just ideas for you. I've thought of using the brick siding on the flooring for my hearth. You should look into into lime mortar as well. It is very easy to mix and smooth plus it has a lot better properties than Portland cement. It breaths and never molds unlike Portland which will if exposed to enough moisture. After its set you can come back with a wire brush and smooth it all real easy.
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