rberq wrote:Yes, it's a Harman. The instructions that came with the stove say .06 MINIMUM draft, with .06 to .10 being the suitable range. So I set it at the mid-range, .08. Also since I don't have a manometer I wanted to err a little above the minimum. Seems to burn well, and I don't get the audible whistle of excess air into the over-the-fire air inlet like I was getting before installing the baro. I will experiment later with slightly lower settings.
Like you, I generally run the air inlet between 3/4 and 3 turns open, though very rarely beyond 1 1/2 except when firing up new coal. I also have noticed that the baro closes when I open the ash door or open the air inlet to its max. It makes sense. Think of the chimney like a straw that you are using to suck up a thick choclate shake. That's like having the air inlet closed down, so there's a lot of suction in the middle of the straw where the baro is. But once you pull the straw out of the ice cream -- like opening the ashpit door -- there's no resistance to new air flowing into the bottom of the straw, hence very little vacuum in the middle to pull the baro open.
Since this place is poorly insulated, I usually need more heat out of the stove, right now it's set at 2 turns. I will leave it there for the night. You said the baro closes when you open the ash door. That shouldn't happen. Do you mean the loading door?
I probably should have gotten the Mark II, for the additional BTU's, but once I get the Alaska done and installed in the cellar (which is at about 55 degrees now) it should ease the load on the Harman. We also burn the wood stove at the other end of the house as needed.
The Mark I really does put out the heat, though.