Effects of Anthracite Coal on Cast Iron Stove

I haven't found any discussion in this forum or good information on the web about the effects of burning coal in a cast iron stove. Does anthracite coal have any negative or corrosive effects on cast iron? Does burning coal impact or corrode a cast iron stove any differently than burning cord wood? I have a cast iron potbelly stove that has burned cord wood faithfully for over 30 years in our family. Before that, it was a winter work-horse for the U.S. Army since it was cast, probably in the 1920's or 30's. I know it was designed for both wood and coal, but probably BT not anthracite. I'm now burning anthracite coal in it and I'm worried how coal might impact the cast iron long term. Thanks in advance for anyone who has information on this!

Many of us have antique coal stove like the one you see in my avatar. My Glenwood Modern Oak 116 is circa 1907 and it's brethren in the kitchen (Glenwood 208C) cookstove is 1909 to the 20's. mine being about 100yrs old. Both of these (with proper maintenance over the years) operate like the day they came out of the foundry in Taunton, Mass. Hope that answers any questions you might have about cast iron and anthracite. On this site alone there are many coal burners with stoves as old or older then my two. We're a force. Don't worry about a thing except to keep your stove tight for good control and cleaned out at season's end. You'll have no probs. Cast iron is one of the best (if not the best) materials for heating stoves.

Like mentioned above, no adverse effects from anthracite burning in a cast iron stove. I have one that is a few years old as well .

Personally I prefer polish as a finish for cast iron as opposed to paint but that's just my opinion. The biggest thing like Steve said is make sure it is air tight so you can control the fire.

Nice looking cannon heater by the way, I really like the insignia on it !

Same as the previous posts. As Steve also said, a good cleaning at the end of the burning season is important as to keep humidity out of the stove. Humidity and coal ash/dust is not the best mixt.
BTW, my Golden Bride is around 1905 and the Sunnyside is fron 1874 only With love and care, they will last an other

My hand fed Buderus was cast iron. Burned it for 28 years, always cleaned up nice a the end of every season. My new steel Keystoker 90, is definitely a different animal when it comes to rust in the same environment. Cast lasts

well my Glenwood #30 is now entering it's 114th year on this planet and I would bet that most of it as it is to this moment have been spent burning anthracite coal, I would bet that if she is taken care of buy the next owner like she gets now she will last another 100yrs+
Spring time maint. is the key as stated in the posts above, you do that your cast iron heater will last indefinately as long as it isn't over fired.
I have an Atlanta Stove Works No60 potbhelly stove that I burned anthracite in with no ill effects at all before I got my Glenwood.
Tim

Thanks everyone for all your encouragement and affirmation that nothing will impact the cast iron. So far so good. My rig is not air tight so controlling it is a challenge. Even with the bottom damper closed it roars at 500+ degrees and chews through 15LB of coal in 8 hours. You need asbestos undies just to get near the thing! Won't be a problem on cold night in January, but a bit too out of control for fall weather. I'm hoping when my barometric damper arrives (curse you Sandy!) it will help keep the fires or Mordor under control.

On the topic of MPDs... I know MPDs have been discussed ad nauseam in this forum, but can anyone tell me: If I had an airtight stove would an MPD in the flue pipe help keep heat in the room? Would an MPD or Barometric have any effect at all on a stove with truly airtight doors and airtight bottom dampers? Seems from all the forum posts that dampers are irrelevant on airtight stoves.

JRL,
some 1/4"-1/2" rope gasket material and a little furnace cement will do wonders for your Pot Belly ...i have been down this road testing with my Atlanta and U CAN SEAL HER UP and make her behave and controlable...your Cannon heater will never be completely air tight but with some inginuiety she can be brought under control.
A potbelly can hold a 12 hr. burn at low rates with some "APPLIED LOVE"

JRLearned wrote:Thanks everyone for all your encouragement and affirmation that nothing will impact the cast iron. So far so good. My rig is not air tight so controlling it is a challenge. Even with the bottom damper closed it roars at 500+ degrees and chews through 15LB of coal in 8 hours. You need asbestos undies just to get near the thing! Won't be a problem on cold night in January, but a bit too out of control for fall weather. I'm hoping when my barometric damper arrives (curse you Sandy!) it will help keep the fires or Mordor under control.

On the topic of MPDs... I know MPDs have been discussed ad nauseam in this forum, but can anyone tell me: If I had an airtight stove would an MPD in the flue pipe help keep heat in the room? Would an MPD or Barometric have any effect at all on a stove with truly airtight doors and airtight bottom dampers? Seems from all the forum posts that dampers are irrelevant on airtight stoves.

Nope a MPD will help your stove keep heat in the room. My Glenwood is pretty tight and has great control. I could hold 200 degrees with 40 knot winds during the sandy storm. Mine is closed 90% of the time and is only open for start ups, and refuelings for 15 min or so.