Jensen coal furance fan wont shut off HELPPPPP PLEASE

Sorry for the lack of getting you up to speed before sending you out on the turnpike to play.....First, I see you just joined, so WELCOME, second sorry I missed it. You are among friends her, so the learning curve will be a little steeper.
I am off to a jobsite, but I promise to be back later. You are in good hands for now, just don't lose you patience, however, I do think you need to get a 't' and a barometric damper before you go too far. The big box guys should have both.
I wouldn't burn without it. You apparently have a good draft.......keep asking, and you will learn quickly.

I think im stuck with a fan that blow all the time after it gets up to temp. This sucks .

I am not knowledgeable enough about your particular unit to help you further, but there are plenty here who are. Just give them a chance and your issue will be solved if it can be.

Kevin

Thanks Kevin, I'm sorry I wasn't trying to rush it, I just am so annoyed with it. LOL I just want to be able to shut the fan off with a thermostat.. one last thing its a two wire system for thermostat and I upgraded the thermostat to a new digital one if that helps

On my stoker furnace there's a fan limit switch that turns the blower on and off based on the temperature inside the furnace.
Here's how my furnace manual describes it:

FAN LIMIT SWITCH
1. HIGH LIMIT POINTER-is a safety switch that stops gear motor from pushing coal onto grate at 200 degrees (If stove gets too hot, this switch will turn off gear motor).
2. CENTER POINTER-turns convection blower on when internal air temperature reaches this setting (normally set around 160 degrees, but is adjustable).
3. LOW POINTER-turns convection blower off when internal air temperature falls to this setting (normally set around 120 degrees, but is adjustable).
4. Whatever number on silver dial is directly above this point is temperature of internal air.
5. WHITE BUTTON-pull out for automatic operation of convection blower. Push in for constant running of convection blower.

Could it be possible that your switch settings (if you have one) got changed during the move? Or possibly one of the wires became disconnected?
I'm not as much of an expert as many of the other guys on this forum but I thought I'd throw this out there in case it may be some help to you.
Good luck,
-Len

Still a good answer CoaLen, I was actually trying to figure out if the fan was the one that circulated air to the house or one that blows into the coal for combustion. My old gas furnace had the hi/lo fan switch that was adjustable for kick on/kick off. This can be damaged if the disk is turned, hold it firm and move the pins for temp changes. It is attached to a sensor in the firebox and this may be damaged also. It is replaceable and a simple fix.

Kevin

I'm not an hvac guy, but this is what my logic is telling me.

Now since you don't have a baro installed the combustion could be the problem since it isn't calibrated with a barometric damper limiting the draft. Basically your stove can't go to idle mode because you have to much chimney draft. First step is install the baro as recommended in the manual.

Next I would check the thermostat because it is sending to furnace the call for heat, the furnace goes hot(combustion fan kicks in), and the distribution fan blows lots of hot air. If the thermostat wasnt calling for hot air, the air coming out of your ducts would only be on the warm side.

Fans can be adjusted generally with a variable speed switch, I believe what you are looking for is called a rheostat (look it up for a more detailed explanation, I'm not an electrical guy).

Not a expert but a few thoughts.
From your posts it sound like your furnace is working as it should. My guess would be that you have more draft
in the fire box than needed so the fire won't idle down and allow the plenam blower to shut off.
That said I would agree with Rob about a barometric damper. I question if there is excessive air entering the
fire box causing the fire to not idle down. I would check the ashpan door for a good seal, make sure the spinner
is closed. Also on page 10 of the manual it shows a draft adjustment on the combustion blower, maybe this needs
to be closed more as I would think this will allow air in without the blower running.
As you said the furnace was working properly in its former home so really the only thing thats changed is a different
chimney that may have more draft.
Just some thoughts,
Bill

I know this thread was 2 months ago, but here is some information (I have the same stove)

In that electrical cabinet you will see a disk switch with degrees marked on it. You can turn the center to point at different degree marks.
Turn that one up to a higher temp. I can't recall what mine is set to (135?), but I think its 1 click below the highest temperature.
This tells the fan when to come on. I think the fan runs at 600 CFM. turning it up will allow the fan to cycle where a lower setting the fan might come on and stay on.

Now if you fire the stove to hard, and it gets up to 170 deg (I think), another disk switch (without adjustment on it) will turn the fan speed up to 1300 CFM.

there might also be a 3rd disk that turns the motor draft fan off at a certain temperature.

If you have to small of a heat duct on top of the unit, I could see the 140 disk getting up to "on" temp, and limited air flow could cause it to stay on for a long time.
If the wood burns out, stove cools off, first I would pull one of the wires off the 170 switch, does fan still run? If yes, replace the 140 disk. I have seen them on line, as well as granger.

I have found in the past I left something on top of the vent holes on top of this electrical box and the fan ran a lot longer.

I also mounted a metallic temperature switch on my flu pipe about 2 foot from the stove.This is wired to the power that runs the blower fan that pushes combustion air into the fire box. When switch hits 500 deg, it turns off the combustion fan.

in 20 years only problems i have had has been the rheostat that controls the combustion fan failed. Replaced it with a HD ceiling fan rheostat.
once a wire came unplugged off the 140 disk. The 170 disk took over and turned the fan on high speed blower until I discovered the problem.
Plus a couple cracked fire bricks, but I bought some replacements when they were still available at Tractor supply.

Only recommendations is a couple drops of oil in the air handler blower every year.
Replace the bolts that hold the cast ends in the firebox every couple years,
and run an air filter. I bought the air filter attachment when I got the stove. But I don't think you can find them anymore.

.

Just an update with the correct numbers to my last post.
first adjustable disk turns fan on low at around 110-135 if I recall. I think I have mine set on 130.
then 2nd disk turns fan on High at 140.
then 3rd disk turns off air box blower fan at around 160 deg.

Sorry about the wrong numbers in my first post