Kinda serious Jotul 507 question

So my little Jotul is now three weeks old (to me) and I am getting it dialed in real well. This is a very airtight stove so exactly what advantages do I get my closing the damper for overnight use. There really is no wasted hot air as the top of the 6" blakc pipe stack just b4 the chimney is only at 95F and the brick chimney it feeds into is only at 80F, so I don't think I am wasting much heat. No baro as the wind rarely blows hard. I see Hitzer says no nothing if that's what you want to do.

Don't leave me hangin' here as I am scratching my head and getting wooden splinters under my fingernails.

If it's working well, why mess with it??
My thoughts are that with your low, make that very low chimney temperatures, you will create a loss of draft and either out fires or CO leakes into the house
when the chimney stops drawing due to cooling down too far..

Greg L

I wouldn't worry about the damper if your stack temps are that low. If I open my damper my stack temp will climb up over 300 F. Close down the damper and my stack temp drops down to 100 - 150 depending upon how hot I'm running the stove. Of course these numbers are al relative, my thermometer is 12 inches from the back of my stove, so it's pretty close to it. As you move it further back, your temp will drop depending upon placement...

dj

You seem to have it dialed in really well, I wouldn't mess with it. Like Greg said, you don't want to totally starve the chimney of heat and create a low draft situation.

Thx for that guys and that was my assessment too. Of course, I have a tiny little fire box compared to some and it's very airtight so it makes sense. When I shut it down there is not much of anything going on. As this little guy is capable of blowing me out of the door in my application, my lustings for a Glenwood #8 will have to stay in the dream box. I'll never get that Hitzer 50-93 in here either it's too much, big boy hand feds are not for me.

Simon

I have only a baro on my 507 setup, no manual. The Jotul is a very air tight stove which makes it so easy to control. I can hold onto the pipe within ten inches of the stove. Above the baro the pipe is just warm to the touch. On days where the outside temp is going to be fairly warm, I will throttle the Jotul up just a little to dump more heat up the chimney so I don't loose draft. Yesterday the Jotul had a seventeen hour burn between refueling. Currently my 507 is running at a temp of 400 F. When I ran my Jotul 24/7/365, in the summer months you could hold onto the stove and it would be just a little warm to the touch. I was dumping just enough heat up the chimney to keep a positive draft. Greg makes a good point concerning the possibility of a loss of fire or loss of draft. If your going to run your stove low these are things you have to pay attention to. It can be done since I have done it for a few years, just pay attention to your co detectors and your stove. With my Jotul I tested the idea of having no baro verses a baro. I installed my baro and then capped it to see what kind of pipe temps I would get as well as burn times. I then burned the stove with the baro uncapped. Again, measuring temps and burn times. Even though the Jotul is a very air tight stove I saw decreased burn times and increased pipe temps with the baro covered as compared to using the baro. This is just my two cents.

The snowman.

Noted info from a guru, but is there any time that you have no wind? I have not got down to 12 hours yet but I am convinced I can get there. Stove, 0.8 on the dial, 10 hours and still just fine. No new CO detectors but Mother in Law laying on the floor in front of the stove. OK so far.