SteveZee wrote:Nice set up by the way and a happy Thanksgiving to you and yours.
Thanks. I tried to wring out efficiency while keeping it aesthetically understated. Love this coal, you can bastardize the stove without worrying about chimney fires!
SteveZee wrote:Nice set up by the way and a happy Thanksgiving to you and yours.
lsayre wrote:If I might ask, how many inches up from ground level is the center line of the flue outlet on the back of the Alaska Kodiak, and is that a 6" flue pipe?
63roundbadge wrote:SteveZee wrote:You are burning bit coal? I only ask because of the creosote mention. Maybe you burn some wood at times?
In all honesty I would say Larrys "equation " is about as good as any for a general idea of the btu's. For me it's just a number to compare stove sizes too in particular for hand feds. I always look at how many pounds does the stove hold in a full load and then how hot it gets versus the stack temps in my situation. I find it interesting that at "full throttle"you only get 350/150. That's good stove to stack numbers but if I opened my primaries all the way I think I could get 700/175 numbers on a cold day. I don't run it that high, I like to stay about 550r so max and normally just cruise at 350-400 during the winter but that is with the primaries maybe a 1/2" or so open. Maybe it's the heat sinks you have attached to yours?
I'm burning purely Blaschak pea anthracite. Never wood/bituminous. Very predictable and stable.
I think tonight I'm going to shovel a light layer on top of the hopper fed level to see if it brings it up a bit? With the angle of the fire-brick that would give a larger surface area of red coal. If that's the case, since the hopper is slightly tapered inward, a shorter hopper would achieve the same effect making a larger firebox? I think I'll leave well enough alone there. No turning back on that one...
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