EFM WCB-24 domestic hot water coil gasket leaking

The EFM's have an issue with that style mount for domestic hot water coil, this is one the few design changes to the EFM line that were made. See how the bolts are mounted on a flange on the new model?



The new stokers have the same setup. My Van Wert has the same problem as it's exactly the same, be sure to check the integrity of the metal on the boiler around where it mounts. We ended up having to weld in some material because it was that much corroded on our Van Wert. When I visited EFM a few years back Chris (aka Stoker Man) showed me a part they had available to retrofit them with the new flange. If it's bad you could contact EFM dealer to see if it fits the WCB and it would have to be welded into place.

I guess it's impossible to tell until the plate and gasket are removed but there doesn't really seem to be much corrosion around the the plate. I am hopeful the surface is good enough to make a decent seal with some cleanup and a new gasket.

If not I have a friend in manufacturing who is a hell of a welder that I'm sure would be happy to install that new flange stile mount assuming it would fit my boiler. I'm guessing I'd have to weld a plate over the whole area to cover up the stud holes, then attach the new flange to that?

I'll keep my fingers crossed all winter, I'm sure simply installing a new gasket will do the trick.

Does anyone think a simple sheet metal heat shield to divert the heat away from the underside of that gasket would help prolong it's life?

W3DRK wrote:I guess it's impossible to tell until the plate and gasket are removed but there doesn't really seem to be much corrosion around the the plate.

I'm not familiar with the EFM but like I said the Van Wert is exactly the same. It wouldn't surprise me if the coils were interchangable. Ours didn't look that bad either but once you got the plate off there was a lot of corrosion inside the boiler around where the bolts were. There is a reason they changed the design. It might take 20 or 300 years before it's an issue but it's going to be an issue. Ours was about 25 when it started leaking like that, we did have leaks before during shutdown but that is common.

If not I have a friend in manufacturing who is a hell of a welder

When we did ours I wasn't aware of the retrofit and it might nor even work anyway, my Brother just welded some new material on. If you have someone you can trust that welds have them look at first if there is any issues. Even if you get it off and find it a little corroded have him put some new metal on it.

I'm guessing I'd have to weld a plate over the whole area to cover up the stud holes, then attach the new flange to that?

If I recall correctly the retrofit had a very large plate on it that was welded right to the boiler but I didn't get a really good look at it either.Chris could probably get you picture of it, I'm not even sure if it's an actual part offered by EFM. He mentioned they had made them at the suggestion of one of their dealers, he must of been fixing a lot of them. Keep in mind you'll have to go through a dealer to get it. Chris could probably set you up if you need one.

Dennis wrote:I'm in Chester co./East Coventry.Roller Mills has Blashack bags and bulk and priced reasonable with a high lift truck.I get UAE straight from the breaker delivered at $240. ton,if intrested i'll give you a number.

Sure I'd love to have the number, thanks! If I recall Roller Mills wanted more than that for a ton of the Blashack delivered and I think their delivery charge was a little high considering I'm less than 10 minutes way from them.

The Blashack does seem to be burning well in my EFM. At first I was getting lots of clinkers jammed up in the shaker grates but that was because I didn't know what I was doing and kept disturbing the coal and didn't have it loaded to the top of the fire brick. Now that I'm getting the hang of it, keeping it full and shaking the ash down every 6 to 8 hours and I'm getting very little ash and no clinkers at all.

I've been home all week, I'm wondering how it will do tomorrow when I leave for work at 7 am and return at 5 pm. Hopefully it won't mind going that long without being touched.

Dennis wrote:I'd listen to Rob since he is more fimilar with your boiler,If the baro don't help keeping the temps. down then lower your aquastat to 150/160. That should keep the temps down and have enough heat

I took the advice and adjusted the draft control down. It hasn't had to dump heat since and the house has been rock solid 72 deg with the thermostat cycling exactly the same as if I were using the oil. I'd say it was a success!

EFM offers the extended coil mount as a repair/upgrade kit for existing boilers. The bad news is that the coil bolt pattern is different, so you would need a new coil as well.

I'm pretty confidant the upgrade won't be necessary. I've seen pictures of EFM 520s that were corroded MUCH worse and didn't need a plate welded in to get a good seal so I'm hopeful mine won't be too bad. The nuts weren't even rusty.

W3DRK wrote:Sure I'd love to have the number, thanks!

That $240.00 ton was back before UAE raised their prices twice that year.Very nice and prompt delivery,I tiped the kid $20.00 ]he brought with him since he climbed into the bin and shoveled

W3DRK wrote:I've been home all week, I'm wondering how it will do tomorrow when I leave for work at 7 am and return at 5 pm. Hopefully it won't mind going that long without being touched.

You shouldn't have any problems going 12 hrs.,get into a 12 hr. schedule

W3DRK wrote:At first I was getting lots of clinkers jammed up in the shaker grates but that was because I didn't know what I was doing and kept disturbing the coal and didn't have it loaded to the top of the fire brick. Now that I'm getting the hang of it, keeping it full and shaking the ash down every 6 to 8 hours and I'm getting very little ash and no clinkers at all.

good, never stir the ash and coal,if need be only push down to break up the bridging.