nortcan, it's pretty amazing how much heat the Vigilant II stove transfers from the combustion gasses isn't it? I've measued 140*F stovepipe temperature at 6 feet (1.9 m) with a measued 700*F stovetop. This is without a barometric damper. The internal damper is a well engineered part of this stove that mimics a manual pipe damper's funcion. When using its internal damper once the stove is up to temperature, the thermostatic air control works in conjunction to perform similarly to a barometric damper for best heat transfer. Best of both MPD and Baro systems with out the conditioned room air drain of a baro.
I've burned wood in mine too, both in fireplace mode and closed up. If burning bit (or wood!) in airtight mode, be sure to put the restrictor plate over the inside of the air feed so the fire temperature can be controlled. Also, the secondary air inlet can be used to help completly burn the smoke inside of the side chambers as there's no over fire air inlet in the model 2310. Anthracite needs so much more air than wood or bit to properly burn so I normally have it removed. Without the restrictor plate, the stove can easily exceed Vermont Casting's max temperature of 700*F with wood/bit.
I burn anthracite during the changing seasons by reducing the size of the firebox. Quite simply by using steel plates atop the grates, several old firebrick and burning pea size coal. I cut the size by 25 or 50% by blocking either or both sides of the firebox. This reduces the maximum output by a similar percentage, just right for changing season burns. One just needs to watch the draft doesn't drop too much with such a small fire.