Manual Pipe Dampers .. How, Why, When

 
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warminmn
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Post by warminmn » Wed. Oct. 29, 2014 11:44 pm

franco b wrote:I think lightning's position is that both devices act to decrease draft which I believe to be true. The baro acts automatically while the manual damper must be set and reset if draft changes and constant draft is desired.

There is however a difference in the behaviour of the flue gas when using a manual damper. Flue gas when encountering the restriction of the manual damper will tend to bunch up in front of it and then increase velocity in passing through it where it then encounters the much lower pressure of the full size pipe which causes turbulence. Turbulence both before and after the damper coupled with the slowing gas will have a baffle effect beyond just slowing the gas. This turbulence could effect the heat exchange of the stove and account for the belief that it holds the heat in.

To prove it one way or another would take some careful measurement.
Interesting post. Do you think that the turbulence with a MPD is making the stove more efficient? Or just slowing down the burn?


 
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Post by franco b » Thu. Oct. 30, 2014 10:20 am

Slowing down the burn could be accomplished by restricting the primary air more, which happens when the baro or manual damper lowers draft. The baffle effect of the manual damper could increase overall efficiency somewhat by forcing the flue gas into closer contact with the smoke pipe, increasing heat exchange.

 
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Post by corey » Sun. Nov. 23, 2014 1:21 pm

When burning wood only could I also us my MPD to slow the fire more and keep more heat in once the pipe and stove get up to a hot enough temp?

 
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Post by rberq » Sun. Nov. 23, 2014 5:35 pm

corey wrote:When burning wood only could I also us my MPD to slow the fire more and keep more heat in once the pipe and stove get up to a hot enough temp?
If the fire is big and you close the MPD too much, there may be too much smoke and flue gases to get past the damper, so they come out into your house instead. Ask me how I know. :(

 
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Post by corey » Sun. Nov. 23, 2014 5:42 pm

rberq wrote:
corey wrote:When burning wood only could I also us my MPD to slow the fire more and keep more heat in once the pipe and stove get up to a hot enough temp?
If the fire is big and you close the MPD too much, there may be too much smoke and flue gases to get past the damper, so they come out into your house instead. Ask me how I know. :(
Wow that not good never happened yet to me.

 
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Post by Lightning » Sun. Nov. 23, 2014 7:01 pm

I see in your signature you have a "buck coal wood combo stove".. how do you burn buck coal in a multi fuel unit?

 
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Post by corey » Sun. Nov. 23, 2014 9:18 pm

Lightning wrote:I see in your signature you have a "buck coal wood combo stove".. how do you burn buck coal in a multi fuel unit?
I have burnt but about 40 pounds of coal in it it replaced a EPA wood stove last month mainly burning all wood right now.


 
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Post by Lightning » Sun. Nov. 23, 2014 9:21 pm

So does "buck coal" mean you used buck size coal in it? I've only known a hand fed stove to use pea size or larger.

 
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Post by corey » Sun. Nov. 23, 2014 9:25 pm

Lightning wrote:So does "buck coal" mean you used buck size coal in it? I've only known a hand fed stove to use pea size or larger.
It means Buck Stove Company gues should edit that.

 
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Post by Lightning » Mon. Nov. 24, 2014 5:06 am

Oh ok.. :lol: I was thinkin maybe you tried burning buck and had a bad time with it or something. Glad we got that straightened out hahaha..

 
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Post by spiritartman » Sun. Jan. 11, 2015 5:51 pm

PS anyone know where to get coal in Upstate South Carolina????????I'm just about the buy a Refab Chubby from Larry. I have a wood stove insert currently but loading the wood every 2 or so hours is a big DRAG. Coal seems the way to go hands down. Wish I knew this a few years ago. Peace friends!

 
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Post by rberq » Sun. Jan. 11, 2015 6:02 pm

spiritartman wrote:PS anyone know where to get coal in Upstate South Carolina
Top right part of the screen, enter South Carolina into the Search field. I think there are past threads that will help you.

 
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Post by jremington » Sat. Oct. 17, 2015 10:09 pm

I had the conversation regarding the two types of dampers with DS a while back. They told me that they recommend manual pipe dampers with their stoves. They told me the only way they would recommend a barometric damper is if someone lived in an area where there was heavy winds constantly. They did say that if someone had a stove that had cracks or missing gaskets then a barometric would be a better choice. But in this case it would be better to fix or replace the stove. I don't understand there being a problem with carbon monoxide with a nice tight stove and a manual damper.

On the flip side, Ken from Alaska recommends Barometric dampers for his stokers. This I agree with for obvious reasons

 
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Post by franco b » Sat. Oct. 17, 2015 10:42 pm

jremington wrote:I don't understand there being a problem with carbon monoxide with a nice tight stove and a manual damper.
Even with a tight stove if draft is positive it will leak out of intake and secondary air openings. A manual damper if closed will aggravate the condition more quickly than a baro. My own belief is that a stove with bi-metal thermostat needs no damper at all except in those cases with a chimney of very high steady draft.


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