Interesting post. Do you think that the turbulence with a MPD is making the stove more efficient? Or just slowing down the burn?franco b wrote:I think lightning's position is that both devices act to decrease draft which I believe to be true. The baro acts automatically while the manual damper must be set and reset if draft changes and constant draft is desired.
There is however a difference in the behaviour of the flue gas when using a manual damper. Flue gas when encountering the restriction of the manual damper will tend to bunch up in front of it and then increase velocity in passing through it where it then encounters the much lower pressure of the full size pipe which causes turbulence. Turbulence both before and after the damper coupled with the slowing gas will have a baffle effect beyond just slowing the gas. This turbulence could effect the heat exchange of the stove and account for the belief that it holds the heat in.
To prove it one way or another would take some careful measurement.
Manual Pipe Dampers .. How, Why, When
- warminmn
- Member
- Posts: 8075
- Joined: Tue. Feb. 08, 2011 5:59 pm
- Location: Land of 11,842 lakes
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Chubby Junior, Efel Nestor Martin, Riteway 37
- Coal Size/Type: nut and stove anthracite, lignite
- Other Heating: Wood and wear a wool shirt
-
- Site Moderator
- Posts: 11416
- Joined: Wed. Nov. 05, 2008 5:11 pm
- Location: Kent CT
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: V ermont Castings 2310, Franco Belge 262
- Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood Modern Oak 114
- Coal Size/Type: nut and pea
Slowing down the burn could be accomplished by restricting the primary air more, which happens when the baro or manual damper lowers draft. The baffle effect of the manual damper could increase overall efficiency somewhat by forcing the flue gas into closer contact with the smoke pipe, increasing heat exchange.
-
- Member
- Posts: 1035
- Joined: Fri. Nov. 14, 2014 11:14 am
- Location: Southwest VA
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Buck Stove Hybrid
- Coal Size/Type: Eastern KY bituminous
When burning wood only could I also us my MPD to slow the fire more and keep more heat in once the pipe and stove get up to a hot enough temp?
-
- Member
- Posts: 6442
- Joined: Mon. Apr. 16, 2007 9:34 pm
- Location: Central Maine
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: DS Machine 1300 with hopper
- Coal Size/Type: Blaschak Anthracite Nut
- Other Heating: Oil hot water radiators (fuel oil); propane
If the fire is big and you close the MPD too much, there may be too much smoke and flue gases to get past the damper, so they come out into your house instead. Ask me how I know.corey wrote:When burning wood only could I also us my MPD to slow the fire more and keep more heat in once the pipe and stove get up to a hot enough temp?
-
- Member
- Posts: 1035
- Joined: Fri. Nov. 14, 2014 11:14 am
- Location: Southwest VA
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Buck Stove Hybrid
- Coal Size/Type: Eastern KY bituminous
Wow that not good never happened yet to me.rberq wrote:If the fire is big and you close the MPD too much, there may be too much smoke and flue gases to get past the damper, so they come out into your house instead. Ask me how I know.corey wrote:When burning wood only could I also us my MPD to slow the fire more and keep more heat in once the pipe and stove get up to a hot enough temp?
-
- Member
- Posts: 1035
- Joined: Fri. Nov. 14, 2014 11:14 am
- Location: Southwest VA
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Buck Stove Hybrid
- Coal Size/Type: Eastern KY bituminous
I have burnt but about 40 pounds of coal in it it replaced a EPA wood stove last month mainly burning all wood right now.Lightning wrote:I see in your signature you have a "buck coal wood combo stove".. how do you burn buck coal in a multi fuel unit?
-
- Member
- Posts: 1035
- Joined: Fri. Nov. 14, 2014 11:14 am
- Location: Southwest VA
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Buck Stove Hybrid
- Coal Size/Type: Eastern KY bituminous
It means Buck Stove Company gues should edit that.Lightning wrote:So does "buck coal" mean you used buck size coal in it? I've only known a hand fed stove to use pea size or larger.
- Lightning
- Site Moderator
- Posts: 14652
- Joined: Wed. Nov. 16, 2011 9:51 am
- Location: Olean, NY
- Stoker Coal Boiler: Modified AA 130
- Coal Size/Type: Pea Size - Anthracite
Oh ok.. I was thinkin maybe you tried burning buck and had a bad time with it or something. Glad we got that straightened out hahaha..
-
- Member
- Posts: 30
- Joined: Sun. Jan. 11, 2015 5:41 pm
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Chubby
PS anyone know where to get coal in Upstate South Carolina????????I'm just about the buy a Refab Chubby from Larry. I have a wood stove insert currently but loading the wood every 2 or so hours is a big DRAG. Coal seems the way to go hands down. Wish I knew this a few years ago. Peace friends!
-
- Member
- Posts: 6442
- Joined: Mon. Apr. 16, 2007 9:34 pm
- Location: Central Maine
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: DS Machine 1300 with hopper
- Coal Size/Type: Blaschak Anthracite Nut
- Other Heating: Oil hot water radiators (fuel oil); propane
Top right part of the screen, enter South Carolina into the Search field. I think there are past threads that will help you.spiritartman wrote:PS anyone know where to get coal in Upstate South Carolina
-
- Verified Business Rep.
- Posts: 207
- Joined: Wed. Aug. 26, 2015 6:43 pm
- Location: Belleville, New York
- Stoker Coal Boiler: DS Machines. Keystoker
- Hand Fed Coal Boiler: DS Machines Aqua Gem
- Hot Air Coal Stoker Furnace: Koker 160
- Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Anthra Glo
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Anthramax Comfort Max
- Hand Fed Coal Furnace: DS Kozy King
- Coal Size/Type: Nut, Rice and Stove
- Other Heating: Gas and pellet stoves
- Contact:
I had the conversation regarding the two types of dampers with DS a while back. They told me that they recommend manual pipe dampers with their stoves. They told me the only way they would recommend a barometric damper is if someone lived in an area where there was heavy winds constantly. They did say that if someone had a stove that had cracks or missing gaskets then a barometric would be a better choice. But in this case it would be better to fix or replace the stove. I don't understand there being a problem with carbon monoxide with a nice tight stove and a manual damper.
On the flip side, Ken from Alaska recommends Barometric dampers for his stokers. This I agree with for obvious reasons
On the flip side, Ken from Alaska recommends Barometric dampers for his stokers. This I agree with for obvious reasons
-
- Site Moderator
- Posts: 11416
- Joined: Wed. Nov. 05, 2008 5:11 pm
- Location: Kent CT
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: V ermont Castings 2310, Franco Belge 262
- Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood Modern Oak 114
- Coal Size/Type: nut and pea
Even with a tight stove if draft is positive it will leak out of intake and secondary air openings. A manual damper if closed will aggravate the condition more quickly than a baro. My own belief is that a stove with bi-metal thermostat needs no damper at all except in those cases with a chimney of very high steady draft.jremington wrote:I don't understand there being a problem with carbon monoxide with a nice tight stove and a manual damper.