Manual pipe dampers .. how, why, when

OKay...lot of good info here. Just so I understand this right I got to ask a dumb question.....where do I want my Baro-D in relation to the chimney-stove-manual-D?
IOW,, Do I want the Baro between my stove and Manual-D..? Or do I want the Baro after my manual-D..?

Thanx....hyway61

My MPD is the first from the stove. After that is the baro damper, before heading into the thimble.

Yep Dallas,,,,,that makes sense and what I figgered. That way the draft is regulated regardless of the manual-D position......hyway61

If you had the MPD after the baro it might leak smoke out the baro if you closed the MPD all the way.

Wouldn't the best place for the MPD be at the flue outlet of the stove? Otherwise the relatively thin flue pipe would be subject to the hot gas that you are trying to restrain.

I started out with a Franklin stove in 1977 and it had the MPD. It was the first winter and the house wasn't insulated or drywalled yet. At the same time, the "air tight" stoves were on the market. I had never burned wood before, so I figured that I could load up the Franklin and completely shut the damper and make it work like the modern "air tight".

We went to bed upstairs and I don't know why, but I turned on the light beside the bed and smoke was coming in the doorway. I ran down the steps and saw a completely glowing orange stove and fluepipe through the wall. I called down my wife and we threw buckets of water on the stove until we could open the door and throw water inside to outen the fire. The cast iron was cracked all over the place. Not wanting to waste money, we continued to use that stove for another 5 years until it was completely used up.

I ran down the steps and saw a completely glowing orange stove and fluepipe through the wall.

Best reason not to use a MPD.