Hitzer 354

modell79 · Post by **modell79** » Tue. Nov. 27, 2012 3:29 pm

Hello all,
first off I would like to thank everyone for there great knowledge on this coal forum. because of this site and the crazy price of LP this is my third winter burning coal. I started out with a Hitzer stoker, just recently I found a Hitzer 354 on CL and wanted to get some info possibly from other users, reviews things to look for, what size coal to burn, also if anybody is using outside combustion air on this type of stove. thanks again for your help

fastcat · Post by **fastcat** » Tue. Nov. 27, 2012 3:52 pm

modell79 wrote:Hello all,
first off I would like to thank everyone for there great knowledge on this coal forum. because of this site and the crazy price of LP this is my third winter burning coal. I started out with a Hitzer stoker, just recently I found a Hitzer 354 on CL and wanted to get some info possibly from other users, reviews things to look for, what size coal to burn, also if anybody is using outside combustion air on this type of stove. thanks again for your help

A 354 is a 50-93 without the hopper, use nut coal. Did you buy the stove or are you just looking? If just looking find yourself a 50-93 there will be much less muss-fuss and bother with the hopper. Both stoves are great stoves and produce a ton of heat, no reason to shy away from the 354 if a true hand fed is your liking. They operate exactly the same so any questions can be answered by many. Things to look for would be an over fired stove, whitish on the outside sides, warped grates. Make sure the grates operate properly without any binding. The outside combustion air is something you could do, I haven't heard of anyone going that route.

modell79 · Post by **modell79** » Tue. Nov. 27, 2012 4:07 pm

thanks for responding so fast, I just purchased the stove this past weekend it looks pretty good grates seem fine. the only thing that looked a little suspicious was the top baffle plate looked possibly a little warped (raised in the middle) and didn't seal along the back of the fire box. other than that the stove looks new. the door and window gaskets looked pretty bad so I am in the process of changing them. I was looking for a 50-93 but could not find one used I also wanted something I could possibly burn would in when the temps get a little warmer.

buffalo bob · Post by **buffalo bob** » Tue. Nov. 27, 2012 4:36 pm

modell79 wrote:thanks for responding so fast, I just purchased the stove this past weekend it looks pretty good grates seem fine. the only thing that looked a little suspicious was the top baffle plate looked possibly a little warped (raised in the middle) and didn't seal along the back of the fire box. other than that the stove looks new. the door and window gaskets looked pretty bad so I am in the process of changing them. I was looking for a 50-93 but could not find one used I also wanted something I could possibly burn would in when the temps get a little warmer.

good move...the baffle is only welded in spots, no big deal...mine keeps my 2400 sq ft nice and toasty...just have to have good air circulation, I call it the heat loop...very seldom do I run the fan,.. I try to keep it between 400 500 deg...have just a smidge of air on the ash door...luv mine best move I have made...and it don't eat electric...dont screw around with it just tend every 12 hrs and it will be fine...i use 40 to 50 lbs coal every 24 hrs...i give it a good shakedown, open bottom door and both damps (mpd on pipe) pull handle on stove,get her blazing put coal on to top of firebrick leaving a 4 to 5 inch s
pace of britely glowing coals till it gets flaming good again then add last shovel of coal...close bottom door,close both drafts, mpd closed about 80%, sit back and watch the blues dance...have fun...
all this takes 15 to 20 min...

modell79 · Post by **modell79** » Wed. Nov. 28, 2012 8:34 am

i finally had a chance to work on the stove last night I pulled the baffle plate out and wire wheeled it. with the plate sitting on a level floor the middle was raised about an inch. it doesn't look like the baffle plate is welded, it looks like it just sits on angle iron that is welded to the sides.

fastcat · Post by **fastcat** » Wed. Nov. 28, 2012 9:31 am

While you are working on it pick up a flat washer with a 1" center hole, file the hole square so it just slides over the square shaker grate knob on the outside of the stove. Take your shaker handle and drill two holes one on each flat, tap and insert set screws, I used 5/16 thread short bolts. Slide the washer on the grate knob, pull the knob out slightly so there isn't any in and out play, slide the shaker handle on right up against the washer up against the stove body and tighten the set screws tight. This will save your shaker handle from rounding out and also will eliminate a hot spot in the coal bed on the side where the shaker is.

buffalo bob · Post by **buffalo bob** » Thu. Nov. 29, 2012 8:53 am

modell79 wrote:i finally had a chance to work on the stove last night I pulled the baffle plate out and wire wheeled it. with the plate sitting on a level floor the middle was raised about an inch. it doesn't look like the baffle plate is welded, it looks like it just sits on angle iron that is welded to the sides.

ur right sorry ...checked mine and found out it isnt welded..thats good now I can pull it and clean it better...i am going to try the 1 in.washer thing as I get a hot spot there and then a dead spot...

freetown fred · Post by **freetown fred** » Thu. Nov. 29, 2012 9:00 am

YES, that will make a big difference on that hot spot--I did it the middle of 2 seasons ago w/ JB weld (temp) forgot to tack it the last 2 off seasons

Soooo, I just have to make sure it's flush to stove after shaking. I really am going to stick tack it this coming off season---heard that before

modell79 · Post by **modell79** » Fri. Nov. 30, 2012 11:25 am

update,
new gaskets installed using high temp silicone, washer mod finished on shaker handle. after 1 hr of filing and grinding, I should not have used stainless. the only ? I have is how to install the single wall stove pipe. I have spent a couple of hrs reading over in the pipe section. since I am going to be burning wood in early spring or late fall should the crimped end be installed up or down. my installation is using single wall stove pipe off the stove then to a barometric damper then a manual damper and 6 ft of single wall before it goes into a cathedral box then triple wall. thanks for any help

SteveZee · Post by **SteveZee** » Fri. Nov. 30, 2012 11:28 am

Don't install a barometric damper if you intend to burn wood. Just a MPD will be sufficient. Crimps down also for the same reason (burning some wood).

modell79 · Post by **modell79** » Fri. Nov. 30, 2012 11:44 am

sorry I forgot to mention that I would cap it off when burning wood, I live on top of a hill where it is always windy so I think I am going to need a baro.

buck24 · Post by **buck24** » Fri. Nov. 30, 2012 12:14 pm

modell79..... The Baro should go after the MPD. Stove -- Stovepipe to MPD to Baro. to chimney. Those 354's are nice stoves. Let us know how she does when you fire her up.

SteveZee · Post by **SteveZee** » Fri. Nov. 30, 2012 9:19 pm

Buck is exactly right. If you have to have a barometric damper, it goes after the MPD. Otherwise, when you close the MPD, you will pump CO out through the baro and into the house.

grobinson2 · Post by **grobinson2** » Sat. Dec. 01, 2012 6:16 am

Here is some more info for you about a 354.

Pictures of Your Stove

Thanks,
Glenn

SteveZee · Post by **SteveZee** » Sat. Dec. 01, 2012 11:16 am

Pretty cool stove Glen! You designed it and Hitzer made it up for you?