Woke up by the Smoke Alarm

 
User avatar
carlherrnstein
Member
Posts: 1542
Joined: Tue. Feb. 07, 2012 8:49 am
Location: Clarksburg, ohio
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: combustioneer model 77B
Coal Size/Type: pea stoker/Ohio bituminous

Post by carlherrnstein » Wed. Nov. 28, 2012 2:27 pm

How big is the size of coal you are useing? I honstly think that smaller "egg" size coal works better in my stove and if you read the manual for a warm morning 400 here Manual for Locke Warm Morning Model 400 ??? (thirteenth post from top by abocc178 in a attachment) It clames that it will burn any size of coal and type of coal, coke, pet coke but, works better with smaller sizes.

My thought is that the smaller sizes heat up faster and give up there gasses faster and the coke that forms burns better. So far I have seen larger lumps of bit never leave the sooty stage of burn but the smaller egg to orange peices leave the sooty flames behind in a couple hours then turn to coke at least in my stove.

 
Dann757
Member
Posts: 3363
Joined: Sat. Sep. 06, 2008 9:10 am

Post by Dann757 » Wed. Nov. 28, 2012 2:53 pm

Better to be woke up by the smoke alarm than smoked up by the wake alarm. :D

 
User avatar
Smokeyja
Member
Posts: 1997
Joined: Mon. Nov. 21, 2011 6:57 pm
Location: Richmond, VA.
Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood #6 baseheater, Richmond Advance Range, WarmMorning 414a x2
Coal Size/Type: Nut / Anthracite
Other Heating: none
Contact:

Post by Smokeyja » Wed. Nov. 28, 2012 5:41 pm

Berlin wrote:I don't like an MPD for that reason and I have probably mentioned this in other posts - it is a very effective soot catcher with bit coal. Some guys have luck with a baro damper, which is much better, but still not a huge fan. When the volitiles are burning off bit coal, it is not always a smooth process - if you've ever watched a wood fired in a modern stove with secondary burn turned down low, you'll know what I mean - the gasses ignite on one side then the flame slowly fills the stove, then the flame becomes smaller, then it catches up to the volatiles being released and repeats. A mpd will create pressure inside the stove every time the flame gets bigger and you end up with some puffing - this happens on wood stoves w/ and mpd also under certain conditions. You have to be able to control the air on a bit fired appliance BEFORE it gets into the stove - mpd's do this by preventing air from leaving the stove and that doesn't work well on evey stove with every bit coal - you may have the problems you're having. If the stove isn't sealed tight, you won't be able to control the fire w/out a mpd, this isn't the fault of the coal, it's the lack of a properly sealed appliance that caused this problem.

There's no need to "babysit" a bit coal fire or keep adjusting the air throughout the burn - set it and forget it (but you have to get the setting right) You control the heat with the underfire air, the overfire air adjustment doesn't move, but is adjusted to get a partial burn of the volitiles (don't waste your time trying to burn off all the volatiles, it wont' happen and the attempt will cause you problems). If you have air leaks then all this is irrelevant. stop waiting for it to burn off the volatiles, do you sit around a wood fire waiting for the volaitiles to burn off? then don't do it with bit coal.

I've used bit coal for years in a hand-fired stove, and I've taught others (in person) how to successfully fire it as well. I know many who've switched to bit lump coal FROM anthracite because it's easier to use. It's not as complicated or scary as many make it seem to be. I haven't had a backpuff from my hand-fired stove in years and I have NO smoke, smell, or mess in my house burning bit coal, hand-fired. There's no need for anyone else to either.

The size of a brick is about the minimum size of good bit lump coal. If your fire is that hot, the problem isn't sealing the top, it's that your underfire air is not controlled or excessive. You will have smoke, a proper hand fired setup will always have some smoke, some coals and sizes more than others - do NOT adjust your fire controls from what smokes or doesn't smoke.
Good information Berlin. I remember reading post about bit that you have written before and I am glad you chimed in. The advantages to burning this bit is that it burns to a really fine ash like wood and I still have had no clinkers. The anthracite will clog my stove up with shale like ash after a week of burning and usually need to dump it and start all over but anthracite is so stable and keeps good high temps for a long time. I can't get as long of burns with this bit.

The door is leaking from the WM tabs I just bought another WM to use the top and door from that because it is sealed well. The rest of this stove is sealed 100% . Tomorrow I will swap the tops and door and try again. Are there any good bit burning YouTube videos you would recommend ?

Btw if anyone missed where I posted the size of bit I'm burning . It is anywhere from bricks to nut but it is mainly the larger stuff and I was say and avg of stove coal or slightly larger.

Now with a wood ire burning hockey split logs I trust it as much as my ant. I can get it going , close te mpd and it will burns a long time with no smoke and no I don't sit and watch it. But burning this bit is a lot different than my hickory which leaves me a little more confused.

By the way, if you are familiar with the WM 414a should I not bank it to the too of the fire brick? Until a lot later?

I just filled it up half way with bit tonight and it's doing well I also haven't closed the mpd at all and it is a good stove temp now and fairly low flue temp. I'm going to slow fill it to the top and see how she does tonight.


 
User avatar
Smokeyja
Member
Posts: 1997
Joined: Mon. Nov. 21, 2011 6:57 pm
Location: Richmond, VA.
Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood #6 baseheater, Richmond Advance Range, WarmMorning 414a x2
Coal Size/Type: Nut / Anthracite
Other Heating: none
Contact:

Post by Smokeyja » Wed. Nov. 28, 2012 9:58 pm

Well it looks like I got the hang of it tonight. I even left the house and came back to a warm house with the bit . If I load ant in the morning and bit in the evening it seems to work out well . We will see if I can keep it up.

 
User avatar
freetown fred
Member
Posts: 30302
Joined: Thu. Dec. 31, 2009 12:33 pm
Location: Freetown,NY 13803
Hand Fed Coal Stove: HITZER 50-93
Coal Size/Type: BLASCHAK Nut

Post by freetown fred » Thu. Nov. 29, 2012 6:30 am

There ya go, it's always about figurin out the combination when you've got basic common sense. I would add a disclaimer--: do not try this at home unless you have good reference info available" such as this FORUM mixed with, again, a good dose of common sense!

 
User avatar
oros35
Member
Posts: 476
Joined: Mon. Feb. 02, 2009 3:47 pm
Location: Pittsburgh Pa
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Cozeburn OWB burning Bit
Baseburners & Antiques: 1912 Smith & Anthony Hub Heater #215

Post by oros35 » Thu. Nov. 29, 2012 11:04 am

I've been mixing the two together with pretty good results. My stove is an anthracite burner, but I live in Bit country, So I'm trying to take advantage of it.

When I load, I first toss some egg size lumps of bit on the hot coal bed, about a layer 1 lump thick, then cover it with about 3-5 inches of Nut Ant. The Ant seems to act like a filter grabbing the soot and helping to burn off the volitiles. I give it a little bit of over fire air and that helps to burn off the volitiles. Plus my stove is not 100% air tight, so I know it's pulling in some air even with the over fire air vent shut.

Too much Bit and my pipes get plugged up and I'm cleaning them too often. I'd say I can use 20-25% Bit in the Ant. and get a good burn.

Post Reply

Return to “Hand Fired Coal Stoves & Furnaces Using Anthracite”