How many control your Hitzer just the ash door valve only?

My 30-95 runs perfect just using the ash door valve. I can make it idle at a given temp and it will stay close to a temp for as long as 24 hours.

I quit using the dial a chain thermo on the back. Have a big brick holdin it tight shut.

Works for me.

Wouldn't the stove maintain a constant temp using the built in t-stat?

smokeyCityTeacher wrote:My 30-95 runs perfect just using the ash door valve. I can make it idle at a given temp and it will stay close to a temp for as long as 24 hours.

I quit using the dial a chain thermo on the back. Have a big brick holdin it tight shut.

Works for me.

What is your reasoning behind not using the t stat? What happens when it gets windy outside and the stove starts drafting harder? I use the ash door slide also but just a little to keep the flapper from banging around.

Me too. My slider is for the most part closed except during minus* weather. The thermo flap not only works real well maintaining a consistent house temp, but I've found that on my very rare puff backs/ gas booms, my back flap takes the brunt of the situation. I would very STRONGLY not recommend doing this. Hitzer has spent yrs making a fool proof system that tried & true, works incredibly well. SCT, get a hobby & let the stove builders do what they do best. Do you need me to send you an operators manuel??? Granted, there are always productive improvements on any stove, but I think this idea may fall into the "what not to do safety issue wise" Hell dude, anybody can do a 24 hr run (minimum) on one of these Hitzers, running them as suggested by the Hitzer people.

With this warm weather we just had I just finished a 72 hour burn, no adding coal, no shake down, no fan, stove sat at 200* for three days with no problems. Shook down this morning and the stove took approx. 50# of coal which = 16lbs a day = $1.92 a day. I guess Hitzer knows how to build a stove you don't have to play with.

Nice run Fastcat.

Helll Smoker, George was just gettin warmed up for a LONG run if needed

just finished firing my hitzer 354 back up after a two day shutdown for maint. the firebrick in the front were cracked, each one in 3 pieces!!! think it came from coal shovel abuse...never saw brick like these 13in long,standard width...also moved stove out from wall a little, and to the right a little..good excuse to re pipe..love those warm days for maint. purposes...now ill clean her up again during the jan. thaw...i dont like that idea of bricking the flapper door shut either...i use little or most of the time no slider draft....oh yea i got a question??? the baffel plate in the firebox was laying down on top of the firebrick in the back and sides (think it was put there for shipping reasons) i moved it up to the angle rails on the side...is this correct??? boy could i get a lot more wood in this am. to start the fire up, also a lot easier shoveling coal in...well have a nice day all ... B.B.

My bimetallic draft regulator stopped working properly. Instead of paying over $100 for a new one, I took it off, and fabricated a spin type draft knob. Keep it simple!!!

Did you put the spinner where the flap is/was?

Yes, the spinner is where the flap used to be. The draft slide on ash door leaked air so I cemented it shut. The stove cement is ugly, but this spinner draft is VERY functional.

Oh yeah, you posted the pix before & it looked good--I take it she's working out well. I said it before, if it works, it's outstanding Hey, where the hell did SCT go????????

No idea. I'm thinking of converting my 50-93 into a 354. It's an old one with a non-removable hopper. Can't burn wood in it. I like wood for spring and fall. The hopper feature is not that significant to me...

There aren't 4 bolts up high on either end of the hopper inside the stove to remove the boot????

Nope. Welded in