Chuck_Steak wrote:If you don't have a manometer hooked up to it, how do you know you "need" one?
He needs one. With that stove, when you hear the wind whistling through the vents around the glass, it means the draft is way too high and is sucking in LOTS of above-the-fire air. I had exactly the same thing with my Harman Mk 1, and it was hard even to get the stove temperature above 350 because so much air and heat was going up the chimney. Wind gusts made it worse, but even with no wind it was a problem.
Well, I think it's good that the OP gets a few comments.
I'm sticking with "it's good to get a mano reading", to know what you really have.
All I can say is, at this very minute, my stove (Mark III) is pulling .05 on the mano,
which I zeroed in just a few weeks ago, like I always do before
I light it for the winter.
It's running 348, my stove pipe is running 143. taken with a laser thermo.
And I can hear air going by the glass vents...
But I would expect to.
I can't tell what the actual draft is, by listening to that air.
I have NO problem running my stove at 600, which you need to
do, here, when it's really cold. And I am certain I am not using
tons more coal than I should be...
I am NOT anti baro.
I am pro knowing what you have.
I HAVE ONE on my stove.
However, after messing with:
My particular arrangement works best with the manual..
Absolutely no question.
But it took experimenting with all three variables
to make the decision.
For you, it's different.
For him, it may be different than both of us.
Plus, I see no negative in getting the mano.
If you find you need draft control,
it will help you dial it in properly,
as opposed to guessing on the little slide scale.