Harman 1 first fire

I got it installed and put a fire to it. I am new to this forum, but not to coal. First time with the Harman. Don't have the baro yet. Need one, I can here the wind thru the glass vents. Stove temp 350 degrees, chimney pipe from stove at 2 feet 200 degrees. Think loosing stove heat? Stay up all night to see how it operates. Filled firebox to 2 inches from top of fire bricks. From 10pm to 7am held the temperature of 325 to 375 degrees. Started to loose heat at 10 am. Opened ash draw for 5 minutes to livery up the coals, closed ash door, added more nut coal 2 inches, opened ash door wait 5 minutes, then closed ash door. Back to 350 degrees in 20 minutes . Thanx for your help on other post that I made earlier. George

You have the right approach in taking the time to study and learn the behavior of your stove.

welcome to the forum....sounds like you are off to a great start

what is the temp in the house with the stove running at those temps?

from the temps listed it doesn't seem like you are losing too much heat up the flue.

make use of that available 2"....fill it to the top of the bricks!!

Agreed. If you have 2" left of bricks, you are not using it to the fullest extent.

200* stack temp seems a little high to me. I can put my hand on my stove pipe and keep it there for a while. I measured it one and was barely at 100*.

The stove is located in a living space 20x30 with 9ft. ceilling. Stove is at one courner. That courner is aprox. center of home. Other rooms on the first floor are distall of the stoves's location. Today it's 28 degrees with a 20 mph wind. The large room is 73 degrees at a stove's temp 350 degrees with the fan off. The furthest room is 69 degrees. Upstairs via stair landing is a floor vent 16 x 30 from the downstairs 25 ft. From the stove. Upstairs 2 bedrooms are. 70 degrees. I have not used the stove at it peak heating output yet. Still smelling stove oil from the factory. Coal unlike wood can vary the temperature low. Wood make creasoke. The home built in 1885 red brick 1450 sq ft. So far I am please withe this little stove. Agree that the stack is high in temps. I think the wind over the chimney is sucking excess heat out of the stove. Will pick up a Johnson Controls RC barometric damper. George

Storm wrote:I got it installed and put a fire to it. Don't have the baro yet. Need one,

If you don't have a manometer hooked up to it, how do you know you "need" one?

Stove temp 350 degrees, chimney pipe from stove at 2 feet 200 degrees. Think loosing stove heat?

You measuring with an infrared, or magnetic?
Doesn't sound outrageous where you don't have a baro hooked up to help cool it off.
Just my opinion.

Dan

Magnetic temps two, one on left side of stove 3 inches from top. Seconded 2 ft. from outlet. Also really don't want to cool of chimney, one third is exposed to weather. The baro would be for the wind.

Chuck_Steak wrote:

Storm wrote:I got it installed and put a fire to it. Don't have the baro yet. Need one,

If you don't have a manometer hooked up to it, how do you know you "need" one?

He needs one. With that stove, when you hear the wind whistling through the vents around the glass, it means the draft is way too high and is sucking in LOTS of above-the-fire air. I had exactly the same thing with my Harman Mk 1, and it was hard even to get the stove temperature above 350 because so much air and heat was going up the chimney. Wind gusts made it worse, but even with no wind it was a problem.

My Mk I in my old house with a "good" chimney(totally inside the house until the roof) would pull like a freight train. No room to install a baro but the MPD helped quite a bit.

In this house with a "cold" chimney(totally exterior) I struggle to get .02" WC but with a due south exposure facing the water, I can get that baro damper flapping pretty good. Those are the days I love having it installed.

In the early and late season, I have to cover it with foil to ensure ALL the air goes through the stove though.

rberq wrote:

Chuck_Steak wrote:If you don't have a manometer hooked up to it, how do you know you "need" one?

He needs one. With that stove, when you hear the wind whistling through the vents around the glass, it means the draft is way too high and is sucking in LOTS of above-the-fire air. I had exactly the same thing with my Harman Mk 1, and it was hard even to get the stove temperature above 350 because so much air and heat was going up the chimney. Wind gusts made it worse, but even with no wind it was a problem.

Well, I think it's good that the OP gets a few comments.
I'm sticking with "it's good to get a mano reading", to know what you really have.

All I can say is, at this very minute, my stove (Mark III) is pulling .05 on the mano,
which I zeroed in just a few weeks ago, like I always do before
I light it for the winter.
It's running 348, my stove pipe is running 143. taken with a laser thermo.
And I can hear air going by the glass vents...
But I would expect to.
I can't tell what the actual draft is, by listening to that air.

I have NO problem running my stove at 600, which you need to
do, here, when it's really cold. And I am certain I am not using
tons more coal than I should be...

I am NOT anti baro.
I am pro knowing what you have.

I HAVE ONE on my stove.
However, after messing with:
no damper
manual damper
baro damper
My particular arrangement works best with the manual..
Absolutely no question.
FOR ME.
But it took experimenting with all three variables
to make the decision.
For you, it's different.
For him, it may be different than both of us.

Plus, I see no negative in getting the mano.
If you find you need draft control,
it will help you dial it in properly,
as opposed to guessing on the little slide scale.

Dan

Hey Storm, how many turns is your damper cranked out with those numbers you posted earlier?

Hey Cap, one complete turn out.