ridgeracing wrote:Owners manual says I need a chimney of at least .06 draw
For my DSM 1300 I have the slider on my baro set to .04, but I don't have a manometer, so I don't know how accurate that is. However, the stove temperature falls off by 50 to 100 degrees after 7 or 8 hours, as ash builds up. A higher draft might make the fall-off less -- I will be trying it when we get some more stable weather.
ridgeracing wrote:What is a good/safe low burn stove temp? 200?
I have run as low as 150 with no problems. Nothing but black coal visible, no red except way underneath. As long as the stack temperature above the baro stays above 90 degrees it has been fine. To tell the truth, I have been unable to turn the thermostat dial down far enough to kill the fire. Even with the inlet door totally closed, the stove leaked enough air to stay burning.
I'm On Fire wrote:I read mine from the top just behind the hopper door ... If I want an accurate reading I use the laser at the same spots. Its usually 50-80° less than the magnetic gauges.
I measure mine at the same place, based on previous advice from IOF.
(And my wife says I never listen to anybody!) My infrared heat gun generally tracks very close to the magnetic thermometer, within about 10 degrees. However, some places on the stove are MUCH hotter than this spot. Both back and front, right above the firebricks, can be 200 to 300 degrees higher, also just below the flue outlet.
I have made one minor adjustment to my 1300: I blocked 3 of the 9 secondary air holes just below the load door, because I felt like there was too much air coming in. I don't know how really to measure that -- here's a question for our mechanic, Eric: can I put an auto-style oxygen sensor in the stove pipe to gauge whether there is too much combustion air, or not enough?
Or is there stuff in the flue gases that would kill the sensor? Don't laugh, I'm serious.