So I started my hearth area demo

If I understand there is a kitchen behind the opened wall, why not put room to room fan or a couple vents for heat flow and an opurtunity to move or add some electrical upgrades. If a bathroom I would insulate, some things shouldn't be able to escape

ooops too much coffee.

freetown fred wrote:Ya need to get it back in gear, you're running behind on your pix progress.

Here ya go Fred ! Here is a quick sketch I did a few minutes ago.



Now that I look at it more I think I won't put the pillars on either side of the stone.

michaelanthony wrote:If I understand there is a kitchen behind the opened wall, why not put room to room fan or a couple vents for heat flow and an opurtunity to move or add some electrical upgrades. If a bathroom I would insulate, some things shouldn't be able to escape

Haha it is a bathroom! I do want to put a vent that can open and close though . It needs to be heated as well. We keep the door closed because of the dog always wanting the bathroom trash and toilet paper . Plus I need to keep the pipes warm. Last year they froze . Good things it's pex !

.....looks like the ash pan is open..... ....it's late and I'm off to bed..oh nice drawing!

Aye Smokey, is that a mantel over the stove? If so, you forgot to pencil in the support brackets. what material would you use? Iron? Wood? Maybe stone?

joeq wrote:Aye Smokey, is that a mantel over the stove? If so, you forgot to pencil in the support brackets. what material would you use? Iron? Wood? Maybe stone?

The mantel will sit on top of some stone but will be supported by iron brackets I'd forge ... Unless the stone proves to be substantial enough to hold the mantel . It will stick out off the wall like pillars offering a little bit better protection to the wood on either side. I will have some other implements of hand forged parts in there a some point .

What I really want to use is natural stones from the rivers in the mountains . I wonder how to actually get a hold of the stone I want. Obviously home improvement stores won't have this and neither will salvage yard or quarries . My only option I can think of is to just go get it? Load up the truck one day in the mountains.

we have,pocono lake supply , a old school mason supply house that sellls it. maybe you have one also.
2 yrs ago they drained a local lake to rebuild a dam and i asked a fellow for the round stone ti exposed to build a period correct chinmey and he said sure. half a dozen trips with a 10x5 trailer and lots of hand picking .....

Nice Josh. Yes, the pillars were a bit noisey. Iron brackets huh??? how did I know? I love the book shelf idea personally, & you can never go wrong with the rough cut. A day trip for the stone definitly sounds in order. Yep, very nice

Poconoeagle wrote:we have,pocono lake supply , a old school mason supply house that sellls it. maybe you have one also.
2 yrs ago they drained a local lake to rebuild a dam and i asked a fellow for the round stone ti exposed to build a period correct chinmey and he said sure. half a dozen trips with a 10x5 trailer and lots of hand picking .....

To my knowledge we have nothing of the sort . I know of a building supply and a granit supply "luckstone" but other than that I don't think so. I could always use cobblestones from the Richmond streets but they cost $2/stone and that might get expensive.

Do you guys think the stone goes well with the old hand made bricks? Maybe when I do a mountain trip I should rent a 4x4 f350 and load that up. I know rocks can add up in weight really quick!

freetown fred wrote:Nice Josh. Yes, the pillars were a bit noisey. Iron brackets huh??? how did I know? I love the book shelf idea personally, & you can never go wrong with the rough cut. A day trip for the stone definitly sounds in order. Yep, very nice

I have a hand full of rough cut oak boards from an old mill in West VA but I don't think I have quite enough but I might. I will have to call a friend and see if he can get me more. I got them on trade for lending an old friend my trailer for the week. It's ok though I can always get some rough cut from a local mill. The question is what wood to use ?

I did my sons closet completely in rough cut aromatic cedar and it looks and smells amazing the rest of his room is trimmed out in western cedern (juniper) . Surprisingly rough cut western cedar is cheaper than typical molding and trim. The only concern with aromatic cedar is I would leave it un-sealed and I am wondering if the stove would dry it out too much.

Btw for any of you carpentry experts ... What is the technical name for the tools to make a tongue and groove by hand or machine. I am interested in makin my rough cut slats tongue and groove. Hmmm and I just had a crazy idea. I could always alternate types of wood in the slats . It might be neat to have a mismatch wall.

I wish I could draw like that, I am lucky if I don't *censored* up drawing a stick figure !

Your hearth is going to look very nice,
Still going to make the 2 week timeframe ?

The stone and brick should blend well together along with the wood, as for the tongue and groove you may be able to get those with a couple different router bits. Maybe a relief cut like an "L" "7" opposite each other will tie the boards together and it may be fewer cuts. Sorry couldn't find any better symbols on my keyboard.

echos67 wrote:I wish I could draw like that, I am lucky if I don't *censored* up drawing a stick figure !

Your hearth is going to look very nice,
Still going to make the 2 week timeframe ?

The stone and brick should blend well together along with the wood, as for the tongue and groove you may be able to get those with a couple different router bits. Maybe a relief cut like an "L" "7" opposite each other will tie the boards together and it may be fewer cuts. Sorry couldn't find any better symbols on my keyboard.

No I'm defiantly not meeting the two week time frame lol
But deciding what I'm actually doing was most of the battle. Now that I have that out of the way I can get to work. One of my major problems is I spent money elsewhere like a oxygen tank for my oxy acet rig . New roof for the garage , and a slew of other things. I have too many projects going on soooo I made need to do the build a little slower than expected. First I need to choose the hearth material . I think I want to stick with some sort of brick or cobble stone for the hearth so when I choose that I can figure out my heights and cut the floor. Then I can close it all up and prepare it for the lime mortar and masonry .

Once the hearth is in I can build the stone pillars . I guess I can go ahead and put the hardie (cement) board in on either side. I need to refinish the mantel and make the iron brackets and I should be able to get that up next as well.

I also have to make a trip down to the Virginia lime works to pick up line mortar that matches my original mortar.

Btw for any of you carpentry experts ... What is the technical name for the tools to make a tongue and groove by hand or machine. I am interested in makin my rough cut slats tongue and groove.

If you own a table saw Josh, you could put a dato blade in it to make your tongue and grooves.The industrial shops use a shaper to make them precise, but the home enthusiasts use a cheaper version with a router table. A dato may not make your cuts seamless, depending what you've got or set-up, but if you're looking for that rustic look, who cares?.

joeq wrote:Btw for any of you carpentry experts ... What is the technical name for the tools to make a tongue and groove by hand or machine. I am interested in makin my rough cut slats tongue and groove.

If you own a table saw Josh, you could put a dato blade in it to make your tongue and grooves.The industrial shops use a shaper to make them precise, but the home enthusiasts use a cheaper version with a router table. A dato may not make your cuts seamless, depending what you've got or set-up, but if you're looking for that rustic look, who cares?.

Ok , I do have a good table saw and I know what you mean. How do I tell the difference between blades? I know what a dato blade is but couldn't pick one out of a lot. I take it you can get different thicknesses right?

This sounds like the best option. I have a 1/8" blade on the table saw now and I use it to make datos (grooves) from time to time but I don't know it it's considered a rip blade, if I'm saying that right, or a dato.

Found a place http://www.peteroseinc.com/Portals/0/re ... -09-12.pdf



Btw the final touch to the hearth will be a glenwood base heater !

The damn warm morning built up enough ash to get less than a 8 hour bun last night. It can go for a little I've a week then you have to dump and restart. It's because of the anthracite. It clogs the chimneys and blocks the grate causing the chimneys in te firebrick to build up with to much ash. It's such a pain in the ass to hake down the WM after a few days. I love ant for its long burn but I hate how it doesn't burn to a fine ash like the bit. I have been mixing the two though lately.

Anyways . The glenwood will be a nice final touch when I buy one hopefully next year.

Ok , I do have a good table saw and I know what you mean. How do I tell the difference between blades? I know what a dato blade is but couldn't pick one out of a lot. I take it you can get different thicknesses right?

Josh, not sure what dimensions you'll be working with, but if your table saw has a good fence, you may be able to make your grooves with multiple passes on the 1/8 ' blade, and the tongues by cutting on edge, and then removing the waste by laying the board flat on each side.
As for the dato blade, there are a couple options. They come as a series of thin blades and fillers, and you stack them to the thickness you want. Or you can buy an adjustable blade, that will cut what you set it for. i had a "wobble" blade once, and it was easier to set up than a "stacked" dato, but shook the motor cause of the out of balance design. Not sure what damage they might cause when used frequently, but for a "limited type" usage only purpose, you could get away with it.