So I started my hearth area demo

joeq wrote:Holding out on us, aye Josh? Forgot to mention you already owned a big router? where do you keep it? Next to your mortising machine? I should be asking you for advice.

Ok what happened is, years ago my grandfather passed away and he left me all his wood working tools. I kept them in storage until a little over 2 years ago when I moved into my house with a large detached garage. I understand the basics of how these machines work but I could use instruction from those more familiar with them. I also have a joiner, band saw, coping saw, drill press, large wood lathe, compound miter saws, all the lathe tools to work the wood by hand you want, sanders, orbital sanders, chain saws and so on. I can make some nice stuff out of wood I just don't do it that often. I am a very skilled fabricator of metals/ blacksmith and so on but wood is the lesser of my skills. There is time to learn more about it though.

Ok I can't stand it anymore ! Must cut floor tonight !

Holy Toledo! What was your grandfathers name? Bob Vila? Once you get your planer and shaper, you'll have enuff tooling to cut down a tree and turn it into a completely custom built great room. With all the info on the net now-a-days Josh, seeing you already have most the tooling, you could build some pretty neat stuff. All you need is the ambition, (and space), if that kind of stuff interests you.

joeq wrote:Holy Toledo! What was your grandfathers name? Bob Vila? Once you get your planer and shaper, you'll have enuff tooling to cut down a tree and turn it into a completely custom built great room. With all the info on the net now-a-days Josh, seeing you already have most the tooling, you could build some pretty neat stuff. All you need is the ambition, (and space), if that kind of stuff interests you.

I really love to build things . I need to organize my current garage and I am putting up a large steel garage later in 2013 so I can move all of my cars, tractors and welding equipment there which will leave the current garage for a wood working shop. Grandad was really into wood working and he didn't buy anything but craftsman tools... You know when they were American made. I actually bought the coping saw at a estate sale and the orbital sander . I have some drawings an ideas for benches out of the hickory and oak that came down in 2011 and I collect salvaged wood for future projects as well. Somtimes I have to make wood handrails for my job to go a log with the metal Gaurd rails. I have also dabbled with wood and metal when I build my sheet metal guitar . Now that was my experience with rare woods such as blood wood and cocobolo. To integrate wood and metal together almost seemless is just amazing to me!

I also don't like paying people to do things for me. I figure if they can do it why can't I?

In modern day it is hard to find true craftsmen . You would think that if you hired a carpenter or company to build an addition on your house that they would be craftsmen, but that's not the case. Most are just laborers and any fool can use a nail gun and shoot it in some sticks and cover it with tar paper and then be done. But is it done right and by the hand of a true craftsman?

I had a company do work on my chimney. They bricked up the front with period correct lime mortar and out a liner in and filled they chimney with pearlite around it . A couple of things that irritated me. They were not skilled masons , I knew more about like mortar and the history of its use than they did . They did not use the correct lime color and mixture to match te original and I could have done a better job! I even did most of the work for them! I demoed the fireplace and I called virginia lime works and sent them samples of my mortar and they sent me correct match sample bags! So needless to say they will never touch my chimney again and I am repointing it myself and rebuilding te chimney cap in the spring. I take a lot of pride in the work I do for people and I expect the same to be given to me but 95% of the time it won't . So I spend my money on tools rather than service lol.

Years ago I had to press bushings out of motor mounts, so I bought a hydraulic press. You get the point

It's all about time really! I really lack enough time. I make sure that I spend a lot of time with my family first and foremost !

And it all sounds good.

Smokeyja wrote:
On the glenwood, how far does the actuall stove stand from the back wall? I am trying to visualize where it will sit when I buy one. Maybe you could give me the width and height on the 6 ?

The base on the No 6 is 24"x24" (and some change) not sure on the No 8 though. The height without Finial is 48" off the floor and the center of the rear flue exit is 25" from the floor.

Here is the r value chart i referred to in an earlier post,

R Values of common hearth materials
Q: My new woodstove's installation manual calls for a non-combustible hearth (floor protection) extending so many inches beyond the rear and sides of the stove and in front of the loading door. This much I understand. The manual also states this floor protection must have an "R" value of at least 0.800. This part I don't understand: what is an R value, and how do I ensure that my hearth material meets the minimum requirement?

R-value is a measurement of the insulating properties of a given material at a given thickness. Here's a chart showning the R-values of several common hearth materials:
Material Thickness R-Value
Mineral Fiber Board ( Micore 160 ) 1/2" 1.270
Ceramic Board ( Rescor 360 ) 1/2" 1.110
Ceramic Board ( Fiberfrax Duraboard LD ) 1/2" 1.100
Mineral Fiber Board ( Micore 300 ) 1/2" 1.030
Common Brick 4" 0.800
Common Brick 2-1/4" 0.450
Gypsum or Plaster Board 1/2" 0.450
Cement Board ( Durock Next Gen) 1/2" 0.390
Cement Board ( Wonderboard ) 1/2" 0.260
Cement Board ( Hardibacker 500 ) .42" 0.200
Limestone 1" 0.153
Cement Board ( Hardibacker ) 1/4" 0.130
Cement Mortar 1/2" 0.100
Slate 1" 0.100
Concrete 1" 0.095
Marble 1" 0.090
Granite 1" 0.083
Ceramic Pavers 1" 0.080
Flagstone 1" 0.079
Sandstone 1" 0.079
Ceramic Tile 1/4" 0.020

As the chart shows, you can achieve the required R-value of 0.800 with 1/2" of Fibrefrax or Micore, 8-1/2" of poured concrete, or one layer of 4" brick. You can also meet your requirement by stacking layers of the materials listed: ie, 4 layers (1.68") of .42" Hardibacker would give you the 0.800 R-value you require.

WOW Keith, that is maths! , bravo.

Ok I know it's slightly offset but I'm centering everything off the flue

Nice Josh, I'd bet you're starting to see that light at the end of the tunnel.

joeq wrote:Holding out on us, aye Josh? Forgot to mention you already owned a big router? where do you keep it? Next to your mortising machine? I should be asking you for advice.

no...by the 4 ft. belt sander

michaelanthony wrote:

joeq wrote:Holding out on us, aye Josh? Forgot to mention you already owned a big router? where do you keep it? Next to your mortising machine? I should be asking you for advice.

no...by the 4 ft. belt sander

Haha it's only around 2'

I'm almost done taking the top layer of flooring off. Ok so I found out that the old flooring underneath is it. It's not sub flooring though. There is no subflooring. Talking to William last year he figured te house could be 18th century and everything would lead me to believe it is older than the mid 19th century because the house was built on beams not a foundation yet lifted on a foundation in 1923 . So I'm guessing they didn't worry about subflooring in the 18th century . It is the hand cut random flooring. The good thing is I found out that the hearth is built on a platform of brick and lime mortar and it's solid! It actually extends farther than the visible hearth which means for the pillars I don't need to support anything they will be sitting on the platform. The nails used are sqaure head iron nails. Not steel . The newer flooring was made by SELLS MFg co. In Johnson city tenn. . It is oak for sure. You can smell it when you cut it. Well I'm still working so I'll report pics later.

I think I'm going to leave this old floor for now . I will cut it out when I'm ready to put in the extra support and have the cement board on hand . You can feel the 30 degree air rushing into the house when I pulled up a few of those old boards .




I also found out that when I remove the brick from the hearth and the wood flooring that the next layer of brick is exactly level with the hight of the floor joist ! This means I can put one big sheet of cement board down! The high is 52 tomorrow so I should be able to shut down the stove , move it, pull up the brick and then put cement board down. Then I can put the stove back and burn until spring .

Nice. I wish you'd put turn those pix upright, I'm getting a hell if a crick in my old neck!!

freetown fred wrote:Nice. I wish you'd put turn those pix upright, I'm getting a hell if a crick in my old neck!!

Fred they are upright. At least that's how my browser is viewing them. The picture was taken upright as well. There shouldn't be any reason they would be showing up sideways .

Click on the images in the link
http://jjvphotography.com/renovate/

Tell me if they are showing up sideways still. I am wondering if it is a board, browser, or my site issue.

At one time I was a computer genius or at least I thought so and then the Internet went all crazy and I began to hate a lot of technology! It is the rise and fall of our society!


EDIT: Ok I FIXED the photos. Thank you for bringing that to my attention. I upload everything via FTP on my phone and never even have to touch a computer . The problem with modern software is it all tries to auto compensate for photos so when you click on a photo that might actually show up sideways it will show it upright and on my phone it shows upright but when I got on my computer they were, as you said, sideways. This is why I want to be a mountain man because I hate technology these days! it used to make sense but now it just frustrates me! YEA YEA I know I'm on the internet

Ok now my phones browser displays everything sideways... Seriously I want to smash it.

freetown fred wrote:Nice. I wish you'd put turn those pix upright, I'm getting a hell if a crick in my old neck!!

hey Fred, They're displayed correctly when your head is at the 12 o'clock position. Maybe cause it's New Years eve, and if you gave the rum and Cokes a break, you may see them up-right.