Carbon Monoxide...FURNACE LEAKING CO...NO CLUE WHY OR WHERE

Dennis · By: **Dennis** On: Sun Dec 30, 2012 7:24 pm

I don't have a stoker unit or hopper and don't know much about them,but is the hopper gasket/rope sealed and clean.

I know eveyone is looking at the stove pipe configuration,but the operator said it ran all last winter and no problems.
Although the pipes seem to have alot of restrictions and too close to combustibles :?:

lsayre · By: **lsayre** On: Sun Dec 30, 2012 7:27 pm

Lightning wrote:
eddieh wrote:All pipes and joints and screws are stainless. The pipes are single walled.

OMG thats single wall pipe?? It CAN NOT be that close to combustibles!! Code is 18 inches!!

Combustibles include (among other things) your wood floor joists.

Richard S. · By: **Richard S.** On: Sun Dec 30, 2012 7:28 pm

You changed the pipes yesterday because of this problem? Are they same diameter as the old ones. What diameter are they?

As far as the proximity to the wood/electrical it's just too close, if your insurance agent saw that they would cancel your fire insurance on the spot. That *might* be safe but you don't want to be the one guy to find out it's not.

At least three screws at each joint. With only two it can still easily hinge open with enough force.

Another thing to not is you have a fairly long run of pipe, the longer the pipe is the more back pressure there is.

Lightning · By: **Lightning** On: Sun Dec 30, 2012 7:31 pm

Dennis wrote:I don't have a stoker unit or hopper and don't know much about them,but is the hopper gasket/rope sealed and clean.

I know eveyone is looking at the stove pipe configuration,but the operator said it ran all last winter and no problems.
Although the pipes seem to have alot of restrictions and too close to combustibles

He just replaced the pipes, so we don't know how it was configured before that...

Dennis · By: **Dennis** On: Sun Dec 30, 2012 7:34 pm

Lightning wrote:
Dennis wrote:I don't have a stoker unit or hopper and don't know much about them,but is the hopper gasket/rope sealed and clean.

I know eveyone is looking at the stove pipe configuration,but the operator said it ran all last winter and no problems.
Although the pipes seem to have alot of restrictions and too close to combustibles

He just replaced the pipes, so we don't know how it was configured before that...

just saying hopper gaskets

EarlH · By: **EarlH** On: Sun Dec 30, 2012 7:49 pm

My insurance company would flip if they saw that set-up. That aside, have you checked your water heater and cooking stove? I don't know if you use gas for your water heater or stove, but some really good freinds of mine had the same thing happen and it turned out to be something wrong with the pilot light in the gas oven. And I knew some people that nearly died 10 years ago as they had a very airtight house and when they ran the clothes dryer it would suck air down the chimney and since she did a load of clothes one night and then put them in the dryer it sucked enough CO2 into the house through the water heater vent that the whole family nearly died. Her son was expected at school for something and when nobody answered the phone someone from school decided to go over to the house to see what was going on... Anyway, it might be something else going on there too... Good luck with it now.

Richard S. · By: **Richard S.** On: Sun Dec 30, 2012 7:52 pm

Just some friendly advice from someone that has had a house fire , if you live that's a life altering experience. If it's me I'd start all over. Move the stoker over by the wall preferably in an area you can avoid any wires. Run you duct work longer instead of trying to run the flue pipe across the basement. If you're not going to do that at the very least you need to get that existing flue pipe out of where it is. Make sure you're using double walled pipe where it goes through the wall or near any combustibles. Make sure the diameters of the pipes are what the manufacturer recommends and that includes the inside diameter of the double walled pipe exiting the house. Make sure it's adequately supported and you have 3 screws per joint.

Last but not least do not run this for any length of time until you have the CO issue fixed.

Boots · By: **Boots** On: Sun Dec 30, 2012 7:57 pm

Richard S. wrote:Just some friendly advice from someone that has had a house fire , if you live that's a life altering experience. If it's me I'd start all over. Move the stoker over by the wall preferably in an area you can avoid any wires. Run you duct work longer instead of trying to run the flue pipe across the basement. If you're not going to do that at the very least you need to get that existing flue pipe out of where it is. Make sure you're using double walled pipe where it goes through the wall or near any combustibles. Make sure the diameters of the pipes are what the manufacturer recommends and that includes the inside diameter of the double walled pipe exiting the house.

Last but not least make sure it's adequately supported and you have 3 screws per joint.

Richard S. · By: **Richard S.** On: Sun Dec 30, 2012 8:09 pm

One other thing to note, it's CO or Carbon Monoxide. CO2 is carbon dioxide the greenhouse gas. Both can kill with sufficient concentrations. CO2 is around 14% and the cure is fresh air. CO is deadly at fractions of a percent. It bonds with the hemoglobin in your blood preventing it from carrying oxygen, even with immediate medical attention you're in deep *censored*.

vulcan · By: **vulcan** On: Sun Dec 30, 2012 8:45 pm

Ditto with all the other concerns with the exhaust pipe, I especially agree with Richard about getting your stoker closer to an outside wall and shorten the distance of pipe your counting on to be sealed. I have a koker with about 3 feet of exhaust pipe inside of house. I also built a sheet metal heat shield to cover my 150 year old joists and another method to use is to put your 4 inch pipe inside 6 inch to make it 0 clearance as recommended to pass through a combustible. My 6 inch is never even warm to the touch.

Wiz · By: **Wiz** On: Sun Dec 30, 2012 9:27 pm

Agree with the members, I would dismantle your set up, move unit to wall. Seeing wires are near exit point, use triple wall pipe by them also. Now issue of fire danger will be resolved, and you'll get better draft. Then check to see if unit has a air leak. Please take everyone's concerns of your setup, we're like family here and don't want to see anyone in harms way.

Rick 386 · By: **Rick 386** On: Sun Dec 30, 2012 9:37 pm

Yep what all the others have said.

I am not comfortable at all with those pipes that close to the joists or wires. Do you also have 2 gas lines near the pipe in the last pic ????

And it also looks like you may have used foam insulation where the pipe exits the rim joist ??????????? I would have used double or triple wall pipe to exit the house and attached the flue to the inner pipe.

Do you have any pics of the outside of the house ???

If you are indeed blowing CO into the house there must be a leak somewhere. And incense stick or some light powder sprinkled around any of the joints would show where the leaks are located.

Rick

Lightning · By: **Lightning** On: Sun Dec 30, 2012 9:49 pm

Rick 386 wrote:And it also looks like you may have used foam insulation where the pipe exits the rim joist ???????????

Yikes!!

Wiz wrote:Please take everyone's concerns of your setup, we're like family here and don't want to see anyone in harms way.

Please shut that down and get someone to help you.

plumb-r · By: **plumb-r** On: Sun Dec 30, 2012 9:49 pm

I just noticed the titeflex gas pipe also Rick. The heck with the wood it only burns, gas goes BOOM! Shut it down now,it's not safe. I'd push the stove over to the outside wall that the vent goes out and start over with the right pipe and clearances. Better safe than dead!

CoaLen · By: **CoaLen** On: Sun Dec 30, 2012 9:53 pm

We're kinda ganging up on this guy and some are shooting from the hip while doing it, even though with the best of intentions.
Here's what Keystoker has to say on page 1 of the installation instructions about routing the 4" vent pipe:

3. Select a position on a solid level surface. On non-masonry floors, use an approved fireproof protector under stove. Maintain 16” clearance from side of stove to combustibles. Maintain 6” clearance from 4” pipe to combustible. Clearance from 6” black wall pass thru pipe is 0” to combustibles.

I agree the pipe length is excessive and too many bends, but let's make sure we give accurate and necessary advice.

Carbon Monoxide...FURNACE LEAKING CO...NO CLUE WHY OR WHERE

Re: CO2 PROBLEMS...FURNACE LEAKING CO2...NO CLUE WHY OR WHERE

Re: CO2 PROBLEMS...FURNACE LEAKING CO2...NO CLUE WHY OR WHERE

Re: CO2 PROBLEMS...FURNACE LEAKING CO2...NO CLUE WHY OR WHERE

Re: CO2 PROBLEMS...FURNACE LEAKING CO2...NO CLUE WHY OR WHERE

Re: CO2 PROBLEMS...FURNACE LEAKING CO2...NO CLUE WHY OR WHERE

Re: CO2 PROBLEMS...FURNACE LEAKING CO2...NO CLUE WHY OR WHERE

Re: CO2 PROBLEMS...FURNACE LEAKING CO2...NO CLUE WHY OR WHERE

Re: CO2 PROBLEMS...FURNACE LEAKING CO2...NO CLUE WHY OR WHERE

Re: CO2 PROBLEMS...FURNACE LEAKING CO2...NO CLUE WHY OR WHERE

Re: CO2 PROBLEMS...FURNACE LEAKING CO2...NO CLUE WHY OR WHERE

Re: CO2 PROBLEMS...FURNACE LEAKING CO2...NO CLUE WHY OR WHERE

Re: CO2 PROBLEMS...FURNACE LEAKING CO2...NO CLUE WHY OR WHERE

Re: CO2 PROBLEMS...FURNACE LEAKING CO2...NO CLUE WHY OR WHERE

Re: CO2 PROBLEMS...FURNACE LEAKING CO2...NO CLUE WHY OR WHERE

Re: CO2 PROBLEMS...FURNACE LEAKING CO2...NO CLUE WHY OR WHERE