Manometer Loaner Program

Re: Manometer Loaner Program

PostBy: coaledsweat On: Tue Sep 30, 2008 1:10 pm

I don't use a permanent connection as you should zero the manometer before each use. You could simply drill a small hole in the stovepipe and use a very small hose barb if you want, the tapered pipe thread should pick up the thin sheet metal and seat well.
coaledsweat
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: Axeman Anderson 260M
Coal Size/Type: Pea

Re: Manometer Loaner Program

PostBy: Devil505 On: Tue Sep 30, 2008 1:50 pm

OK.......Here's a photo of the plastic tubing & the barbed fitting I assume is to be used to connect to the stove pipe. I have drilled a small hole in the elbow at the wall thimble. Do I just stick the barbed end of the brass fitting into the hole & somehow connect the tubing to it?? (intuitively it would appear that the tubing should slip onto the barbed end of the fitting & that the threaded (larger) end should go into the stove pipe....But I'd don't want to put that large a hole in the stove pipe)

This is where my Head Injury really gets in my way, so please accept my apologies for being dumb! :oops:
Attachments
001.JPG
(157.61 KiB) Viewed 37 times
View: New PagePopup • Select:BBCode
[nepathumb]6686[/nepathumb]
Devil505
 
Stove/Furnace Make: Harman
Stove/Furnace Model: TLC-2000

Re: Manometer Loaner Program

PostBy: coaledsweat On: Tue Sep 30, 2008 2:04 pm

Drill a hole just big enough to get the very end of the threaded end of the barb into it, then screw it in. The hose would go on the barbed portion.
coaledsweat
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: Axeman Anderson 260M
Coal Size/Type: Pea


Re: Manometer Loaner Program

PostBy: Devil505 On: Tue Sep 30, 2008 2:11 pm

coaledsweat wrote:Drill a hole just big enough to get the very end of the threaded end of the barb into it, then screw it in. The hose would go on the barbed portion.


That would be a pretty big hole! (about 5/16") How do I plug that hole when I'm done?
Also, there are 2 fittings & 2 hoses. Do I need both connected to the stove pipe? (2 huge holes?? :shock: )

BTW...For spending your time helping me on this.........you can claim me as a dependent on your taxes this year! :lol: :devil:
Devil505
 
Stove/Furnace Make: Harman
Stove/Furnace Model: TLC-2000

Re: Manometer Loaner Program

PostBy: coaledsweat On: Tue Sep 30, 2008 2:29 pm

You're only going to use one hose, the other is not relevent for what we are doing. Plugging the hole... you could use a pipe plug the same size as the hose barb has, more than likely 1/4" NPT, about $.25 @ the hardware store.
coaledsweat
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: Axeman Anderson 260M
Coal Size/Type: Pea

Re: Manometer Loaner Program

PostBy: Devil505 On: Tue Sep 30, 2008 2:33 pm

coaledsweat wrote:You're only going to use one hose, the other is not relevent for what we are doing.


Got it.

Which port do I connect the hose up to on the manometer...High or low pressure?
Devil505
 
Stove/Furnace Make: Harman
Stove/Furnace Model: TLC-2000

Re: Manometer Loaner Program

PostBy: coaledsweat On: Tue Sep 30, 2008 2:42 pm

Either one will give you a good reading, it just changes the direction the fluid travels from zero. Most of us use the plus scale (to the right) as it is defined better. If it goes to the left, simply change which port you are using at the top of the manometer. I'll look at mine when I get home and post which one it is as I forgot.
Oh yeah, make sure you have the same hose at each end, that siamese thingy can bite you. :D
The tubing is silicone, not plastic so it won't melt.
coaledsweat
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: Axeman Anderson 260M
Coal Size/Type: Pea

Re: Manometer Loaner Program

PostBy: LsFarm On: Tue Sep 30, 2008 3:08 pm

Or, you can use a piece of tubing, I used a piece of brake line, which is about 3/16" OD. Cut the flared ends off the tubing. Slip the supplied hose over one end of the tubing, put the other end through a screw hole in a flue pipe joint.. the other end of the hose to the manometer.. make sure the fluid is moving to the right side, with the expanded scale..

Greg L.
LsFarm
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: Axeman Anderson 260
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Self-built 'Big Bertha' SS Boiler
Baseburners & Antiques: Keystone 11, Art Garland

Re: Manometer Loaner Program

PostBy: Rick 386 On: Tue Sep 30, 2008 3:41 pm

Devil,

You are installing the fitting before the baro correct ??????



Rick
Rick 386
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: AA 260 heating both sides of twin farmhouse
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: LL Hyfire II w/ coaltrol in garage
Coal Size/Type: Pea in AA 260, Rice in LL Hyfire II
Other Heating: Gas fired infared at work

Re: Manometer Loaner Program

PostBy: Devil505 On: Tue Sep 30, 2008 3:45 pm

Rick 386 wrote:You are installing the fitting before the baro correct ??????


I have no baro any more. I'm very sheltered here & haven't used one for years. Taking Greg's advice & trying out the manometer to see if it (a baro) would be helpful to me.
Devil505
 
Stove/Furnace Make: Harman
Stove/Furnace Model: TLC-2000

Re: Manometer Loaner Program

PostBy: Devil505 On: Tue Sep 30, 2008 3:48 pm

Just got off the phone with Greg & two things:

1. manometer is all set up & functioning correctly! (Thanks Greg & coaledsweat!)

2. Greg is now voting a straight Democratic Ticket on 11/4! :lol: (except he is voting for Ron Paul for Pres.)
Devil505
 
Stove/Furnace Make: Harman
Stove/Furnace Model: TLC-2000

Re: Manometer Loaner Program

PostBy: Matthaus On: Tue Sep 30, 2008 3:54 pm

Nice to see you boys together playing nicely. :lol: :lol:
Matthaus
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: Leisure Line WL110 Dual Fuel, natural gas
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Leisure Line Lil' Heater (rental house)
Coal Size/Type: Rice and Buckwheat Anthracite

Re: Manometer Loaner Program

PostBy: coalmeister On: Tue Sep 30, 2008 10:45 pm

"Nice to see you boys playing together nicely". :lol: :lol:

HA HA! Good one :cheers:
coalmeister
 
Stove/Furnace Make: Alaska 140 Furnace -sold
Stove/Furnace Model: Harmon VF3000 -sold

Re: Manometer Loaner Program

PostBy: Devil505 On: Thu Oct 02, 2008 7:50 pm

OK...I've got the stove up & running & the manometer moved .03 (3 lines) but to the left? (Last night, Greg had me try getting a draft going with a hair dryer which moved the meter to about .02 but to the right. ) I know I can reverse the connection to the other port on the manometer & am thinking last night I may have gotten a "blowing across a coke bottle" effect & may have caused air to be drawn out of the stove pipe rather than in it.

Questions:
1.Does it make any difference which way the gauge moves? (left or right) as long as the fluid is still showing & not blown out of sight to left? (very little room on the left forf the fluid to move)
2. With a very light load (1/3rd full) & fairly warm outside (low 60's to mid 50's) I know the draft is not going to be real strong....so...does a reading of .03 on the manometer provide any useful info?
Devil505
 
Stove/Furnace Make: Harman
Stove/Furnace Model: TLC-2000

Re: Manometer Loaner Program

PostBy: LsFarm On: Thu Oct 02, 2008 7:58 pm

Hi Dick, remember, this is a 'Science experiment' no usefull information for at least several months of study !! :mad: :lol:

Just swap the hose to the other port on the meter so it reads on the right side of the meter,, this will give you a much larger, expanded scale to read the draft on..

Keep watching the readings. record the outside temp and the winds from the weather channel.. and we'll try to find out if you really have a steady draft or not.

Greg L

.
LsFarm
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: Axeman Anderson 260
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Self-built 'Big Bertha' SS Boiler
Baseburners & Antiques: Keystone 11, Art Garland