Manometer Loaner Program

coaledsweat wrote:

av8r wrote:I don't have much pipe before the baro as the baro and T are installed right on the stove nipple. Any issue with checking the draft after the baro or just a few inches before it? How much difference is there checking it over the fire?

You can check it close to the baro as long as it is before it. I would not set the chimney draft by testing the over fire draft as the two do not always relate, this probably more so with stokers.

Thanks for the reply. I can get to the output pipe before the baro from the left side of the atove with it in place, but just barely!

Maybe I'll leave a nipple in place for future experiments...

The people on this forum never cease to impress me. The knowledge, experience and ingenuity are way beyond all expectations. The Manometer Loaner Program is a fabulous idea.

On another thread some guys were proudly announcing that their wives (or girlfriends as the case may be) (hopefully not both!) were skilled at tending to their coal stoves when they were out of town, sleeping, or too busy watching a game on the telly. Wouldn't it be great if we established a Coalwife Loaner Program.

For the fellows without a wife, it would be a true blessing. For those with a wife who is not Coal Friendly, a little competition might motivate them to learn the ropes. And just think, if ypur Coalwife is getting a bit moody, as they do from time to time, just box 'er up and ship 'er out. She'll return to you in much better spirits a few days later!.

Just a thought, guys.

JerseyCoal wrote:The people on this forum never cease to impress me. The knowledge, experience and ingenuity are way beyond all expectations. The Manometer Loaner Program is a fabulous idea.

On another thread some guys were proudly announcing that their wives (or girlfriends as the case may be) (hopefully not both!) were skilled at tending to their coal stoves when they were out of town, sleeping, or too busy watching a game on the telly. Wouldn't it be great if we established a Coalwife Loaner Program.

For the fellows without a wife, it would be a true blessing. For those with a wife who is not Coal Friendly, a little competition might motivate them to learn the ropes. And just think, if ypur Coalwife is getting a bit moody, as they do from time to time, just box 'er up and ship 'er out. She'll return to you in much better spirits a few days later!.

Just a thought, guys.

I'm not willing to take the chance she'll find out I'm not as good as I think I am and decide to stay somewhere else!!! LOL

i'm just filling you guys on what i have going on. along with what i wrote i should of said i have no baro. just 4" SS flue about 3' from the DV unit. Keystoker shows no baro in the installation print. i just want to make sure i'm not wasting anybodys time on shipping the unit around. the only way i can adjust the damper is slow the DV motor. Chris did his that way. i wonder how much he had to reduce the speed and if he noticed a diff in the heat on the flue pipe?

ken wrote:i'm just filling you guys on what i have going on. along with what i wrote i should of said i have no baro. just 4" SS flue about 3' from the DV unit. Keystoker shows no baro in the installation print. i just want to make sure i'm not wasting anybodys time on shipping the unit around. the only way i can adjust the damper is slow the DV motor. Chris did his that way. i wonder how much he had to reduce the speed and if he noticed a diff in the heat on the flue pipe?

Can't you put a baro in?

take alot of screwing around. i would have to step it up to 6" , put it in , then back down to 4". i dont think they make a 4" baro. Keystoker says i don't need one lol. maybe their wrong.

4" baro

http://www.nationalcomfortinstitute.com/members/products2.cfm?product_id=19&Cat=Consumer%20Products

JiminBucks wrote:Sign me up, who should I sent my address to. Jim

Send it to ken, he is getting it next.

Dallas wrote:4" baro

http://www.nationalcomfortinstitute.com/members/products2.cfm?product_id=19&Cat=Consumer%20Products

I don't know that a double action baro would be a wise choice for a coal appliance.

Never mind, I just realized the discussion was for a direct vent.

ken wrote:i'm just filling you guys on what i have going on. along with what i wrote i should of said i have no baro. just 4" SS flue about 3' from the DV unit. Keystoker shows no baro in the installation print. i just want to make sure i'm not wasting anybodys time on shipping the unit around. the only way i can adjust the damper is slow the DV motor. Chris did his that way. i wonder how much he had to reduce the speed and if he noticed a diff in the heat on the flue pipe?

Ken, don't put a baro on your direct vent keystoker no matter what! The direct vent is a pressurized system with sealed joints, once you put a baro in the pipe you'll blow all the coal gasses into your house and you'll die or get real sick.

ok , so the baro's out , thank you e.alleg my only other option is to slow the DV motor. send the unit to Jim. i have to have somebody get me a rheostat. i would like it installed before i use it. wish Chris would jump in , he did the same thing i want to do. like how much did he turn the motor down , to get the proper draft.

Ken, please start a separate thread about 'tuning' the motor speed on your DV unit. I do know that the draft created by the DV motor varies a lot with fly ash accumulation. So if you are going to try slowing the motor down, I would recommend buying and installing a full time manometer so you can monitor the draft. Otherwise you will have no indication how much you have turned it down, and could easily have too little draft.

I want to keep this thread about the loaner program, so specific, questions should go in their own thread. And just PM Chris, he'll respond to your question.

Thanks, Greg L

Matthaus, I got the meter in the mail this morning. Thanks! Now I got one more reason to avoid X-mas shopping! I haven't looked at the instructions yet, but my guess here is to take a base draft(no wind) cold. And again after the stove has been running a while?

No baseline needed just measure the draft at both ends of the spectrum, max fire and min fire. If you watch the manometer as you cross between the two states you will see any other variations. The big thing to do is check the calibration of the baro, move the weight till it moves and record the draft. Then notice how far off it is from the mark on the baro. You can kind of interpolate how far it is off but that is not absolute.

Give me a call any time, I sent my number in a PM.

ken wrote:ok , so the baro's out , thank you e.alleg my only other option is to slow the DV motor. send the unit to Jim. i have to have somebody get me a rheostat. i would like it installed before i use it. wish Chris would jump in , he did the same thing i want to do. like how much did he turn the motor down , to get the proper draft.

Amazingly, the draft is affected MUCH more by the combustion air setting than by the DV motor speed. I estimate that I am running about 75% speed on the DV motor. However, if I crank it up to 100% and change nothing else, I might creep up from .02 to .03 draft. But, if I adjust the combustion air, I can go from .02 to .05 real quick. As long as you're around .02 to .04, you'll be fine. I like running the rheostat, though, as it cuts down the noise quite a bit. I have a rheostat for the convection blower also, but haven't installed it yet. If the stove decides it really wants to crank, a reduced speed blower might not be able to get the heat out fast enough without hitting the high limit setting on the fan switch.

I'll take a picture of how my rheostat is set up on the stove - it's real simple.