Manometer Loaner Program

100 bucks isnt bad when the bucks are rollin in.......be nice to have one along with my raytek raynger st which is great for checkin surface temps and messin with the cats

The Bacharach "Draft-Rite" gauges are frequently on eBay. I have one and compared to a Dwyer manometer or Bacharch MZF Draft Gauge it's not very usable on a coal appliance. I bought mine on eBay as part of a larger kit of instruments. All the other instruments were well used. The "Draft-Rite" was like new, in it's plastic pouch and with the original instruction sheet. Tells you something!

The trouble with the Draft-Rite is you don't know if its calibrated properly. You can calibrate the Dwyer every time you use it very easily.

That will zero the needle, I don't know if it would actually be an effective calibration to be sure it reads an accurate draft. I would think the thing uses a spring of some kind to allow for its readings, that is where it would need to be adjusted to calibrate it. That said, I'm sure they are reasonably accurate. Its just that the convenience of it seems very overpriced to me.

Hi my name is Nathan I have not used coal to heat with before, looking forward to lower heating costs.I have a Dwyer model #25 manometer and not sure how to install the small plastic lines into stove pipe if someone could help with this please let me know.

Newbie to coal. wrote:Hi my name is Nathan I have not used coal to heat with before, looking forward to lower heating costs.I have a Dwyer model #25 manometer and not sure how to install the small plastic lines into stove pipe if someone could help with this please let me know.

Stop at an auto parts store and pick up a couple of feet of small brake line. Then you will need to drill a small hole in the stove pipe at least a little before the baro. They need to be zeroed every time you use them so it doesn't make sense to hook them up permanently.

Matthaus wrote:OK, took Dave's suggestion, the kit will include 2 ways to access your stove pipe through screw holes so no drill bit included, there is a larger metal tube probe as well for insertion into fire box access holes. I verified that it works so the kit is on it's way to Av8r tomorrow and then on to ken, any body else that wants it just PM me and I'll add you to the list.

Is that an inflat needel for balls and did you modifier it in some way ?

coaledsweat wrote:

Newbie to coal. wrote:Hi my name is Nathan I have not used coal to heat with before, looking forward to lower heating costs.I have a Dwyer model #25 manometer and not sure how to install the small plastic lines into stove pipe if someone could help with this please let me know.

Stop at an auto parts store and pick up a couple of feet of small brake line. Then you will need to drill a small hole in the stove pipe at least a little before the baro. They need to be zeroed every time you use them so it doesn't make sense to hook them up permanently.

Do I use just one line and witch one? should the stove be running or not ? Thanks you guys are the best!!!

Use one Line connected to the LOW side take your reading on a well established fire on a day that’s not windy .
I think the other poster is actually sending you to the parts store for High Temp Vacuum line, brake line is steel and would be used to make a Stem if you will, but High temp vacuum hose will withstand most flue temps is easier to work with and seals itself in a snug hole . And of course there's always the Needle valve thingie

lincolnmania wrote:100 bucks isnt bad when the bucks are rollin in.......be nice to have one along with my raytek raynger st which is great for checkin surface temps and messin with the cats

Scott I bought mine for 51.00 Plus shipping on ebay last year However you can find them for less Matt bought a few for around 30 to 40 on ebay so keep looking However Your Mark II will do the samething What is wrong with what you have already My Draft Rite works as good as my Mark II Have you Zero it out like I told you last time I was over take the hose off the mark II turn the zero knob all the way counterclock wise until it can't go anymore then turn it three full turns clockwise or until it is at zero then put the hose back on and see were it goes should be .04 wc or close to it if not move the MPD until you see it move also clean the stove pipe out and the inside of the Furnace with all of the coal you are burning you will have alot of FlyAsh Build up Oh and get that timer hooked up Talk to you later

:help: :help: :help: :help: :help: :help: :help: :help: :help: :help: :help: :help: :help: :help: :help: :help: :help: :help: :help: :help:

Calling all loaners, please report to base, the season is drawing to a close and it would be nice to get the remaining requesters on the list through the program.

You know who you are, so please keep em moving, PM me for any questions.


Thanks for playing! :lol:

I'm pleased to report that the manometers are once again in flow to the next person in line. If you plan to use the program, please remember to be considerate of those that might be waiting.

Are you still looking for donations?

MrP57 wrote:Are you still looking for donations?

Thank you for asking, It appears we are OK for the moment. Based on usage this season and now that we learned to get more contact information, so that we don't stall at any particular member who has it, the money already donated will purchase enough extra units.