Magnum Stoker Water Coil

BinghamtonNY · Post by **BinghamtonNY** » Thu. Dec. 13, 2007 5:07 pm

Took the day off today and got my coil FINALLY hooked up. Gonna take a while to heat up 80 gallons. I moved my HW next to the stove so no pump necessary. I'll get some pics tonight or tomorrow. Definitely not a pretty install but will do the job I need it too.

Now, time to go outside and plow the driveway with the wheeler... After I have a beer or two.

traderfjp · Post by **traderfjp** » Thu. Dec. 13, 2007 6:56 pm

What coil u install or was it custom made?

BinghamtonNY · Post by **BinghamtonNY** » Fri. Dec. 14, 2007 8:26 am

It's a Hilkoil 24 S. Lastnight my incoming temps were 50 and outgoing was 110. This morning they were 60 and 140. Took two showers and it had dropped back to 50, 110. Now it's got all day to warm again. (80 gallon electric heater)

Just wanted to thank everyone here. I've been reading all the posts related to heating water. What a great resource.

lincolnmania · Post by **lincolnmania** » Mon. Dec. 17, 2007 11:39 am

how close to the stove does the hot water heater need to be that a circulator pump isn't required? my water heater is 8 feet from the stove.
i have a single element 50 gallon water heater on my side of the building...brand new in 1976 but never installed till fall 06, I got it for free.....use mainly for my showers and kitchen and the shop bathroom and sink......the washing machine is on the other water heater (other side of the 40' wide garage roomates residence.....didn't make sense to bring hot water from 85 feet away).....those with electric water heaters, do you leave the breaker on or shut it off when using a water coil setup?
the more on energy I save, the more I can spend on toys hehe

WNY · Post by **WNY** » Mon. Dec. 17, 2007 12:02 pm

Did you mount it inside the stove? I am thinking about just bolting mine to the side of the stove with a pump, it stays 300 degrees and as high as 450.

if you do a search, there are numerous diagrams and discussions....I think they recommend less than 8-10' for Thermosiphon, no pump. I would leave the breaker on, if the stove can't keep up or you need to heat it up quicker. As long as the temp element is satisfied, the elements won't come on.

I actually have a timer on my tank, so it it's only on for 4 hours a day in the morning and 1 hour around 4pm. Other than that, it just sits there using no electricity. it really doesn't get too cool.

BinghamtonNY · Post by **BinghamtonNY** » Mon. Dec. 17, 2007 1:51 pm

Physically it's about 4 feet from the stove. But the amount of piping was about 10'. That was about the limit I've heard. I did have a pump ready to install If I needed to but once I refilled the tank the temps jumped way up then back down again so I knew it was moving. It's been 4 days now and working great. Max temps I've been getting so far are about 155. REALLY HOT!!

Yes WNY the coil is installed inside the stove. I said I was gonna get pics but I've been super busy. Snow storms, christmas shopping, christmas parties, 2 year old etc...

I've left the breaker turned off. I guess I could turn it on. It only runs 4 hrs a day(timer).It would probably never turn on since it's set to 120. but so far it's been unlimited hot water. I hope I see some significant savings on my electric bill.

BinghamtonNY · Post by **BinghamtonNY** » Wed. Dec. 19, 2007 10:07 am

Some Pics

Post by **coaledsweat** » Wed. Dec. 19, 2007 11:16 am

Your baro is out of phase by 90*. I don't see how it can work properly.

WNY · Post by **WNY** » Wed. Dec. 19, 2007 11:19 am

Yes!! Your Pivot Points on the Baro should be mounted HORIZONTALLY and the weight would be on the LEFT side for Horiz. mount and adjusted accordingly. It probably doesn't work real well in that position.

Post by **coaledsweat** » Wed. Dec. 19, 2007 11:23 am

The split in its collar and label on the flapper should be at the bottom. It should be level across the hinge pins and plumb on its face.

BinghamtonNY · Post by **BinghamtonNY** » Wed. Dec. 19, 2007 11:28 am

Thanks guys. Now I feel like a moron.. I never had one. Then installed that lastyear and the pipe temps are not bad at all. I can touch the pipe and it's not real hot. So I just thought it was doing it's job. I will switch that around ASAP.

Post by **coaledsweat** » Wed. Dec. 19, 2007 11:33 am

You must have a decent chimney. I would think that would have made your unit a little lazy, you may find its response and output a little better after its fixed.

Cap · Post by **Cap** » Thu. Dec. 20, 2007 6:24 pm

You might blow your hot water tank relief valve. Better put an extension on it into a plastic barrel. What kind of sealant are you using on the connections at the stove? Looks like white putty teflon stuff? It might overheat. Keep an eye on it.

I thought I could go pumpless as my stove is just next to the hw tank too. But I couldn't. The top of the tank approached temps near 200F and the bottom remained cool. A 10 minute shower would drain of the hot water. But try it and see how it works.

How big is your inner coil?

WNY · Post by **WNY** » Thu. Dec. 20, 2007 6:50 pm

I don;t see any isolation or drain valves to the stove? you can't unhook the coil in case of a problem without draining everything...just a thought.

beatle78 · Post by **beatle78** » Fri. Jan. 04, 2008 3:11 pm

BinghamtonNY,

I put a coil in my Magnum Stoker this year (only with the help of all the guys here), and I haven't burnt a drop of oil in 6 weeks or more.

Question for you. Does the electric tank have a heat exchanger in it or are you actually circulating the potable water in the tank through the Magnum?

Just curious.

Also, how has it been working for you lately?

Magnum Stoker Water Coil

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