Re-Filling EFM 520 Boiler System
I apologize in advance for my ignorance on this subject, I am new to all of this stuff. I just got done replacing the water coil gasket on my EFM 520. Everything went fairly smoothly except for one stud breaking off. A drill and tap later and I'm good to go. What is the specific procedure for re-filling the system?
- Rob R.
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I assume you isolated the radiator piping before you drained the boiler? If so, vent the boiler from the highest location you can and open the valve for the make-up water. Once the boiler is full and you have checked for leaks, open the rest of the valves and start a fire in the stoker. After a few heat calls you may have to bleed some air from the radiators, but that depends how the system is set up.
I closed all of the valves on the radiators before draining it, that's the only way I could since there are no other shutoff valves on the heat system piping. It's very old school. The make up valve is open. The only way to vent the boiler itself seems to be to take one of the plugs out of the back, there isn't anything to open on top of the furnace.
- CoalHeat
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I guess there's no air scoop and bleeder at the outlet piping from the boiler then.
The air should find it's way to the highest point in the system, usually a 2nd floor radiator. With the circulator pump off bleed the air out at that point. Bleed all the other radiators after that before starting the circulator. It may take a few days and multiple trips around the house, but you'll get the air out.
The air should find it's way to the highest point in the system, usually a 2nd floor radiator. With the circulator pump off bleed the air out at that point. Bleed all the other radiators after that before starting the circulator. It may take a few days and multiple trips around the house, but you'll get the air out.
That was my though too, I went around and opened all of the bleed valves of the radiators but it still doesn't seem like the system is filling. All it has is a flow control valve on the outlet. I'm starting to get frustrated and chilly.
- CoalHeat
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Does the pressure regulator on the water line to the boiler have a lever on it? That's the "fast fill" lever, will fill the system much quicker. If it's an old one it probably doesn't have the lever.
- whistlenut
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Open the pressure relief valve......manually. I'd love to see an picture of the piping, this makes no sense. There usually is a Watts Fast Fil Valve with a small arm that can be straightened up to allow for quick filling...JUST REMEMBER to turn it back down when you are filled to satisfaction!!!!.
- CoalHeat
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I was going to suggest that, but if the boiler was plumbed with a combined regulator and relief valve, as mine is, that won't work. Air goes up, I have refilled this type of system in the past, the air always finds it way to the highest point.
- CoalHeat
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Pressure regulator is set at 12 PSI, probably not enough to push out that big air bubble! Use the fast fill lever. If the pressure goes too high the pressure relief valve will open and lower it.bwtucker wrote:There is a lever, I just didn't want to mess with it without knowing what it would do. I will try that now.
There are 2 Tacos inline, one has a lever, the other has a set screw with a lock not in the top. I'm guessing a pressure regulator and a relief valve. I pulled the lever up and it is still not filling. I've open the radiator valves and the vent valves on the radiators. This thing should be filling!!
- CoalHeat
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Yes that's the combined unit.
Assuming the valve on the water supply line is open, I have seen seldom-used valves fail when closed for the first time in years. If you open the boiler drain valve does the water start to flow?
Assuming the valve on the water supply line is open, I have seen seldom-used valves fail when closed for the first time in years. If you open the boiler drain valve does the water start to flow?
- CoalHeat
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So it could be a problem with the regulator or the shut off valve on the supply line then...I would venture to guess.