Yes, you're burning too hot. Here are my 30-95 settings. No dampers of any kind; 1.) Ash pan door vents: Open til holes are round. Now cut in half for half moon. Then cut in half again for 1/4 moon. 2.) Back dial is set at #6 in my shop. For your house, you may want to set the back dial at #7, and no more than #8 (straight up). 3.) ONCE the mass of the stove heats just enough to close the back flapper, turn the fan on LOW, and enjoy. You should never have to run the fan any faster than low. The 30-95 is a real firecracker of a stove. It has the capability of really cranking. But, cranking isn't what you want to do. Run the 30-95 as I described, and you'll be happy. The 30-95 will "over fire" easy, and you will be lucky NOT to loose the fire in the 12+ hour frame. The 30-95 is not as efficient as the 50-93. The 30-95 looses more heat up the chimney than the 50-93. In other words, higher chimney temps = stronger draft = easyer stove "over fire", = shorter burn times, and clinkers. So, keep your settings down in the range I mentioned. Remember what I said in my other reply. You only need to pre-heat the basement air. Cut a large hole high in the main cold air duct. Let your furnace do the rest. When tending the 30-95, Shake grates useing very short choppy movements til pieces of coal start to get caught in grates. After shaking, you may need to poke ash at both sides, as well as in front of hopper. Top off hopper with fresh coal. You're done for another 12 hours. My 30-95 goes an easy 24 hours between tending with fan off. An easy 12 hours with fan on. If your chimney draft is very strong, do as Fred says; Add a manual damper. Let us know how you make out. Oliverbucksnort wrote:Alright, I spent our first night with the hitzer running and wasn't to impressed just yet. I know it needs to be dialed in but I should be getting more then 7 - 8 hours of burning. I can get the stove up to 400 degress but 7 hours later its about out and barely reading 200 degrees. It did this last night and it repeated itself today when I just got home from work.
I have the back damper open the whole way and the front ash tray area open 1/8.
I also noticed around the whole center fire that was still semi-red it was all ashed up. I am sure this means it was burning but does that mean it was burning to hot?
That won't work! LOL. That's why birds die in chimneys. They can't spread thier wings to fly out. I know you were only joking. But, that is why chimneys have dead birds in them.AlmostThere wrote:As a good friend I think I figured the solution to your problems. I bet your chimney is dirty. What you need to do is get a live chicken and place him in the stove with it not running. When he flys out he will clean the chimney with his wings.
To add to what Fred says, you may have clinkers in firebox also. Check for clinkers behind the hopper too. As far as the hopper goes, you have it in correctly. It should angle towards the front of stove. Speaking of the hopper; is it warped? The sides should be completely straight, and parellel to each other. Look carefully! If any one or more sides are not completely straight, and parellel, then you have a warped hopper. This will allow coal to hang up in the hopper as you describe. It will also shorten the burn time as you describe. The worse the warp, the worse the coal hang up. Keep us tuned, Oliverfreetown fred wrote:bs--when you get home--take a poker & go in from the top do the edges real, real good--sounds like you're seriously ashed up-- If needed--shut the bitch down & de-ash the firebox & start from scratch-- post some pix of your set-up including some inside pix of firebox--don't get pissed, but this isn't as complicated as it seems--pix will help alot
The fire looks good in the picture. A little on the bright side though. I'm assumeing it's because of being fully cleaned out, and fresh fire. And, back flapper is still open, or just closed. Fill the hopper. Give the fire a chance to settle in (maybe an hour). If the fire continues to burn "Bright" (bright orange), you need to cut back on the air a little more. Weather it be ash pan vents, back dial, or both. I'd start with back dial. Maybe run on #7. Leave the ash pan vents at 1/4 moon. If it still continues to burn bright, maybe you have a bad / worn ash pan door gasket. The flames look slow & lazy. That's how the flames should look. If the flames were short, and choppy, it'd be because of an air leak at the front load door. I'm not trying to be an alarmist here. I went a little beyond where I should have at this time. All in all, it looks like you're heading in the right direction. I went back and read through one of your post. You mentioned temperature readings from stove body. Where on the stove body did you take the temperature readings. If on top of stove (heat exchanger), you would have a false reading. Upper front sides will give you a more correct reading.AlmostThere wrote:UPDATE: I went and helped my buddy out tonight since he had college class until 9 pm. I got to his house and just killed the fire and cleaned the whole stove out completely. The stove had a TON of ashes so I am assuming that is why it wasn't holding a constant burn. Long story short I spent two hours building a good base. See Pictures. We will see what happens tonight.
Settings - back dial 8
Blower - Off right now.
Use the furnace. Let it run as if you had no coal stove. Cut a hole high in the main cold air duct. Maybe 150 square inches in size. The furnace will distribute hot air evenly throughout the home. The furnace will use hardly any fuel. You'd be surprised how little fuel the furnace will use. And it's because it's drawing in pre-heated air from coal stove. If you use "Fan Only" on the furnace, it will cool the pre-heated air from the coal stove. Let the furnace run as if it had to make all the heat. You'll be happy. You'll reep all the benefits of heating with coal, without any of the common distribution problems others have. I still maintain the 30-95 by itself is too small for heating the up-stairs from the basement. With the help of the furnace, it should do just fine with such a small house. Also, as others have said, don't let ash build up. The first thing I do when tending my 30-95 is to empty the ash pan from previous tending. I shake softly, watching the fire bed drop. I then poke any build up of ash on top. Then do final shaking. If you poke first, then shake, you'll get fly ash bellowing up on air currents, covering everything, including the glass. Again, keep us posted. Edit: I've noticed with my 30-95; it will really crank out the heat if needed; and lots of it. But, I'd be having the same problems you are. The 30-95 needs to run slow & steady, not hot & hard. Should you need to run hot & hard for a while, it'll do it. Then, shake her down, top off the hopper, and lower the settings. You'll get her zeroed in. Looks like you're doing a fine job already.AlmostThere wrote:well today I went after work and helped my buddy out again. I found the Hitzer burning at 400 degrees with a nice flame. Ididn't shake her down since it wasn't 12 hours since he did last. His house was only 66 degrees but a long cry from the 55 it was yesterday. we now need to dial her in and get the house to a comfortable 70 -72. hopefully she can do it.....