another baro question.

if i install a baro is it better for me to run a pipe from flapper side straight down to the floor that way it will be using the coolest air in the room to equalize instead of using the nice warm air near the stove???

If you have a chimney that pulls a really strong draft, it is pulling 500*+ air up the chimney, wasting lots of heat, so if the baro is pulling a little bit of 70* air from the room, it is really minimal heat loss. I would just install it as you see in the instructions.

Greg L

http://www.fieldcontrols.com/pdfs/01575700.pdf

Make no modifications to the baro.

coaledsweat wrote:http://www.fieldcontrols.com/pdfs/01575700.pdf

Make no modifications to the baro.

The referenced installation diagram shows one acceptable barometric damper location as being in the chimney. I've never seen such an installation but it seems to be an ideal location. It keeps the flue gas velocity up in the stovepipe, hopefully carrying the fly ash with it. Then the gas velocity drops in the chimney causing the fly ash to fall out to the chimney bottom clean out. If you have an outside chimney AND a way to keep the damper from being made inoperative by weather and/or animals, having it outside would also solve the problem of drafting heated air up the chimney. Anyone have a barometric damper installed on their chimney? Outside chimney?

Yanche wrote:The referenced installation diagram shows one acceptable barometric damper location as being in the chimney. I've never seen such an installation but it seems to be an ideal location. It keeps the flue gas velocity up in the stovepipe, hopefully carrying the fly ash with it.

Outside chimney?

It probably is and a lot of industrial stuff is done that way.

The baro must be in the same room as the appliance to work properly.

I was thinking of moving the stovepipe to a lower thimble and putting the baro in the old one on mine, less pipe = less ash.

do yourself a favor and install the baro so it's easy to reach to adjust. I put mine in out of the way facing the chimney so to adjust it I have to squeeze behind a bunch of stuff to adjust it, then go back and read the manometer which was leveled on a bench, then squeeze back to the chimney again. If I had just turned it around setting it up would have been 1000% easier.