Electronic Draft Control

during the last couple storms we had, I went to check on the boiler, and draft gauge now that I have the manometer installed and settings tuned to keystokers specs. I noticed that the baro damper sometimes sticks and im over drafting. sometimes quite a bit. damper isnt stuck open, or closed, just not in the right position. not sure if that means the weight isnt set just right? ive done some searching trying to find a electronic damper control set up for a chimney and couldnt come up with anything, just curious to see if anyone has looked into it. I was thinking along the lines of having a set of parameters and a small electric motor could keep the draft in the range? mostly coming up with either open or closed for zone heating in duct work. also, as far as draft goes, what is the range that is acceptable, keystoker says .01-02 when stoker is running. some times over drafting to .06 or more. or am I just over thinking this?
thanks again, paul

are you positive the face of your Baro is perfectly plumb?
.. also... is the pin(hinge) level?
... your counter weight may need to be reset...
... just some quick ideas... I have a new Keystoker furnace... I had a couple "issues" with my baro at first...

door is plumb, hinge is level. now that the weather has calmed down everything is ok, and im right where I am supposed to be. mostly having problems when its cold out and the wind is rippin. we're getting a warm up this week but it wont be long till its in the single digits again.

sometimes you have to see where it's sticking and bend it a bit or adjust it slightly. Not a weight problem if adjusted correctly, sometimes it just gets stuck. Or put a screw or something it it so I can go past a certain point or go too far to get stuck. LIke a stop.

To each their own...but I wouldnt advise anyone to "bend" a draft control device...or compromise it with a screw...i think I would rather see you replace it first.

cleaned it, and oiled it up. I have read other posts about shooting self tapers into the housing so that it cant close all the way. I understand what your saying about trying to put the screw in a position that would keep it in the sweet spot I guess ill call it, but wont this position change throughout the seasons??????

The reading of -0.02" is to be taken at the fire door. Draft at the breech with the stoker running may be around -0.05".

Hey rob from my experiences the difference in draft from fire door to flue collar are small maybe .01 or less. but to be self assured I always double checked draft at the door during these times. I guess my new question is how much over draft is acceptable. manual says .01-.02 while running.

331camaro wrote:Hey rob from my experiences the difference in draft from fire door to flue collar are small maybe .01 or less. but to be self assured I always double checked draft at the door during these times. I guess my new question is how much over draft is acceptable. manual says .01-.02 while running.

With the stoker running? That is odd. I wouldn't want to run over -0.02 at the door with the stoker running. Do you have plenty of fresh air available to the boiler room?

Camaro
.. you'll always have better draft when it is COLD out...
. maybe wind is more of the problem then you think
I think Rob nailed it... I don't get the recommended draft at the fire door on my Keystoker when it is running.... unless I shutdown the air damper at the drive motor
... have you adjusted the air inlet on the stoker while it's running full out and read the draft gauge at the fire door?
... but I still think your biggest problem maybe wind... maybe you could remedy that with a wind cap on your flu pipe at chimney

Keystoker used to have more detailed instructions in their manual. If I remember correctly, they previously said you should get the boiler up to temperature, shut off the stoker, and adjust the damper to get -0.02" of draft at the door. Restart the stoker, and adjust air shutter as necessary to get -0.02" at the door (with the stoker running).

If you have a short chimney, you may not be able to get those numbers. As long as the firebox is not excessively negative, and there is enough draft to not let any fumes escape you should be fine.

rob I set it exactly like that, and currently with the weather we have had, everything has been fine. im right where I should be. problem lies with the wind, I have a weathervane chimney cap, I think this is causing a overdraft scenario when its windy out. please excuse my previous numbers were positive readings I left out the negative -. in an overdraft situation when am I loosing effiency? havent really noticed too much in the way of how much coal it needs on a day to day basis, just trying to keep it running top notch.