ZumDish wrote:I have a Federal Airtight stove, with 2 "revolving shake grates" burning Pea coal. The issue is with the shaking of the rear most grate. i have noticed once the coal dust is shaken out, the burning coal above it does not fall onto the grate again...instead leaving a Pocket of air above the grate. I know this because i have poked a hole in the coal to see what was the matter. the front grate performs well. the "fingers" of the grate are pointed down into the ash bin area as from Dutchwest. The coal burns well but, if i do not attend to it .... it goes out over 6-8 hours. is the pocket of air above the rear most shaker normal? or are there suggestions....? thank you
carlherrnstein wrote:It sounds like you have a bridge. Are you burning hard or soft coal? Bridging can happen if you fire it too hot or there is a air leak under the grate. Just poke it and it will fall down where it ough to be.
ZumDish wrote:have read all the replies, thank you. I purchased the stove as a wood/coal combination stove 15 years ago. I'm burning Anthracite pea coal from Kimmel's, Wiconisco, PA. there are no stove "bricks." the inside of the stove, it is smooth cast iron through out as manufactured, single wall (for wood only). I attach in 4 more smooth cast iron plates (boxing in the coal burning area). the bridging spoke of prior is an excellent description of what is happening. when i poke the fire "bridge" in the area of the back most grate, i am doing just that....poking it in 2-4 places to collapse the bridge and adding more coal. the burn temperature at the top of the stove is 600 F, and the pipe is at 100 F. sorry but, will be a 4 days until i have the opportunity to stop the stove and clean it out for photographing.
when i burn nut coal, i get the gelatinous "ka Ka." lumps of fused ... I have prior to burning, replaced all the seals, ensured it was leak tight, and control all draft through the bottom (dial) valve or door. thank you again for all the input!
ZumDish wrote:ok DKrane! i understand my mission will do what i can to make "certain" all air coming from dial only! and post pictures next week when i get the chance to squirrel my way inside
added a tip, im not sure if you got it.... "also, try not to bank the coals up towards the rear (thinking thats helping you gain longer burns, etc.) with coal you want to try to keep a level bed pea size 4-6 inches nut size 6-9 inches deep. banking up coals to one side or another thereby creating different depth beds hurts in coal burning."[/quote]ZumDish wrote:
SteveZee wrote: think about some type of refractory lining. Your stove will thank you for it and they 'insulate" the fire so that it has better heat transfer where it should.
ZumDish wrote:SteveZee wrote: think about some type of refractory lining. Your stove will thank you for it and they 'insulate" the fire so that it has better heat transfer where it should.
did find this link here on this forum regarding refractory linging...the stove in picture is just like mine.
Added a refractory lining to my stove
was curious, this fellow in the link used it on the front coal grate (picture in link). is this cement/lining used on all burning surfaces where coal is? thank you