Where to Put the Monometer?

lloyd430 · Post by **lloyd430** » Wed. Jan. 16, 2013 7:11 pm

Hello folks, I've been reading the posts for days- and this place is awesome! Here is my question, I just got my new manometer today and when I went to install it I have a slight problem my baro damper sits on top of my stove (Alaska Channing) I don't have a place before my baro to drill a hole and get a reading. Do you think I would get an accurate reading if a drilled a hole in the back of my baro and then inserted the metal tube in pointing downward basically into the stove? I guess how far away does the end of the tube have to be from the bottom of the barometric damper?

Thanks for your input,
Jason (aka Lloyd430)

Post by **Lightning** » Wed. Jan. 16, 2013 7:17 pm

Interestingly enough, I just experimented with taking a mano reading before and after the baro and found that it is exactly the same.. BUT be warned, the mano must go between a manual damper and the fire box or you won't get an accurate reading..

Welcome to the forum partner

lloyd430 · Post by **lloyd430** » Wed. Jan. 16, 2013 7:37 pm

Thats weird they would be the same! I thought the purpose of the baro was to even out the pressure between in side and out side so the heat doesn't go up the flue.

I don't have a manual damper out the stove through the baro and up and out the wall. So that should be and issue for me! We're supposed to drop to the single digits over the next couple of nights I'll set it when its cranked up for that (that way the wife won't get used to too much heat!)

Thanks for the input,
Jason

Post by **Lightning** » Wed. Jan. 16, 2013 8:13 pm

I know right? I was a bit surprised too lol.. It does seem to work against normal thinking, but its the baro's job to regulate pressure in the flue. Apparently, the pressure is consistent before and after the baro. Although, there will be air moving thru the flue pipe after the baro at a higher velocity because of the added volume from the baro.. this could slightly influence the reading in theory if that higher velocity is hitting the mano probe just right....

plumb-r · Post by **plumb-r** » Thu. Jan. 17, 2013 6:34 am

The wind may not have been blowing. Before and after readings would be diffrent if wind was sucking hard on the chimney.

Post by **Lightning** » Thu. Jan. 17, 2013 2:38 pm

At any rate lol, the back of the baro towards the stove as far as possible would most likely work fine. Perfect case would be to tap a hole directly into the fire box

lloyd430 · Post by **lloyd430** » Thu. Jan. 17, 2013 5:08 pm

Thanks guys I ended up drilling a hole on the back of the Baro inserted a piece of 5/16 soft copper through the hole (inserting about 6" in and down) with a little cement to hold in place and I'm hooked up ! Just waiting for colder weather to really crank it up. With the stove at half throttle its at .01 even if I mess with the baro it doesn't change

But like I said I'll wait till I get it fully fired up before I calibrate the baro.

Post by **coaledsweat** » Tue. Jan. 22, 2013 6:23 pm

lloyd430 wrote:my baro damper sits on top of my stove (Alaska Channing) I don't have a place before my baro to drill a hole and get a reading. Do you think I would get an accurate reading if a drilled a hole in the back of my baro and then inserted the metal tube in pointing downward basically into the stove?

That isn't a great spot for the baro, it's sucking the hottest air in the room up the chimney. I would move the pipes around next time it's down for a cleaning. I prefer the baro close to the chimney. Ideally the baro's port should be in the middle of a straight length of pipe, somewhere between the appliance and the baro.

Post by **coaledsweat** » Tue. Jan. 22, 2013 6:30 pm

lloyd430 wrote:I thought the purpose of the baro was to even out the pressure between in side and out side so the heat doesn't go up the flue.

It's only function is to limit total draft on the appliance. It does that by allowing room air to take up the chimneys demand for more air and limiting the appliance's draft to it's set point no matter what the pressures and velocities are.

lloyd430 · Post by **lloyd430** » Tue. Jan. 22, 2013 7:45 pm

I never thought about sucking the hot air

I just went down and check it out, the outer most metal ring of the baro is 88, right above the the stove. If I move it up I can only move it up 18" and then the air temp there is 88 also. I'm working on putting a jacket on my stove so I am gathering most of the air off the back and top, hopefully with in the next week or two I will have the jacket done sealed up with the sides and a 1500 cfm blower pushing the air through out my duct work.

On a side note the first coal I burned was Kimmels, 10 bags emptying the ash pan sometimes 2 times a day and filling the hopper 2 times a day as well. I bought 1200 ponds of loose from my local supplier and I only fill the hopper once a day and empty the hopper once a day as well- and its even colder now! I don't have a coal-trol I have the old rheostat set a about 3 1/2 and the main part of the house is 68-70. Did I mention its darn close to zero out with a wind chill of -25

I love COAL! But I am amazed at the difference between the coal.