Coal-Trol not working

My Coal-Trol just stopped working a couple hours ago and now I have no heat. I discovered the 14" duct fan off the heat jacket of my LL Hyfire II has failed and apparently blew the fuse in the Coal-Trol control. I hoped the issue was as simple as changing the fuse but apparently something else has gone wrong. The outside of the fuse was charred and so I suspect the Coal-Trol control might have gotten fried as well ... apparently the fuse didnt do its job. All other componets are working if I plug them into power direct, which work great for the blowers but I obviously cannot control the feeder, as it will just run and run dumping too much coal. Any ideas how I can get this working so we can have heat again, as its 20 degrees outside, or other things I can check on the control module until Monday when I can call the Mfg. The power light does not come on after putting in the new fuse, although the T-stat does go on and I hear it make a noise when I plug it in ... but no power light on the switch and none of the blower or feeder power up. I greatly appreciate any help. You can call me direct if you can provide some assistance. 484-619-3169.

Unless you had some type of Rheostat for the feeder to slow it down, that would be the only way to slow it down and control it. Thats the way they used to run before the coaltrol. and then just plug the combustion blowers in directly.

or if you had some type of on/off timer that would run every so many minutes to feed the coal.

ohhh the misery of electronics, fans and intricate mechanics I wish i was able to help because no heat is a serious problem we've all experienced at one time or another.
hope this thread can help in some way... im pulling for ya! No power to module ?

WNY, Good idea, how about one of those lamp timers that you can get to turn lights on on off while you are not home. Some are digital and I don't know how many settings you can do. I know the old ones had removable pins on a wheel. Might have to buy a few of them to get enough pins for 24 hours.
You may try to PM Flyer5 and see If he has any ideas. AS long as he is not out boating this weekend.

http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=lam ... ORM=IQFRBA

Don't forget to update us, so we don't think you froze to death.

AND

Welcome to the show!

Yeah I spent over an hour searching for a power switch timer that could be set to go on and off every 10 min or so but I didnt find anything. The closest digital I found could be programmed for 28 times in 24 hours. I also looked at those current light timers with the red and green pins but I would have to fill the entire module with 48 pins, which you can buy spare of, but that too would only give me every 30 min, if it would work at all since they are limited on the amps they can handle. We bundled up and wasnt too bad sleeping close to the wifey but the kids said they were frozen and getting up this AM was brutal seeing breath in the house. Thinking about going out and getting a couple Edenpure space heaters to get us through until I can get this fixed.

Thanks for all your advice and comments. This is a great forum!

An INTERMATIC Repeat CYCLE timer is whats used on the Keystokers for the IDLE, it a 0-30 MIns Repeat cycle time, you can put PINS in for 15 sec intervals.

somethign like this
http://www.smarthome.com/25117/Intermat ... tes/p.aspx

My Keystoker for idle runs 6 pins every 10 mins to keep the fire, but you could set it with more pins for a bigger fire to maintain heat...

Also, If you can find a SPEED control/Rheostat for like a power tool (Like a router, etc..) you could use that to slow down the FEEDER Motor. It should be able to handle at least 1 amp, I dont think the stoker motor draws much power. MIght work temporary.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/JIG-SAW-POWER-T ... %26ps%3D54

That being said, I am now on a mission to find a solution as a backup to the control module for piece of mind in the future. One of the main reasons I went with the LL Hyfire II is for its redundancy, duel combustion blowers, duel feeders, duel convection blowers ... just in case any one would fail we could still operate ... not thinking the single control module would be the single point of failure. I guess I could buy a second one to keep on hand but kind of an expensive thing to keep on the shelf. With the other components, I actually used them when operating. Since I am thinking of plumbing in a water heater coil, I need to make this as reliable as possible. I like the reostat idea, which would allow me to feed at different rates for more or less need along with a power interval timer switch.

I actually still have the old Rheostat control box for mine, I actually use it for the jacket blower to vary the speed.
The Coaltrol controls everything else.

Good luck.

Ryckee, we're very sorry to read that you've encountered a problem. Please contact us Monday morning at 315-299-3589. I'll note your phone number and have someone at the shop call you, as well. If your stove dealer is open Sunday please give them a call too to see if they can arrange for a warranty replacement part from any stock they may have.

Chances are the electronics are fine in the control module. Every now and then the fuse and fuse holder don't mate up properly and the result can be the fuse holder and/or fuse cap melting down due to heat build up. The fix is usually as simple as replacing the fuse holder part and fuse. If you have no other heat source and you're handy enough to disconnect from power, pop open the box pull two wires, replace the part, and put the wires on the new part, and then close the box back up (no powering on until then, too easy to short out something on the exposed circuit board) then we can ship you the replacement parts. Otherwise we can either work with you directly or through your stove dealer to get you taken care of as soon as possible with some warranty repair.

Hi Paul ... I presume, Thanks for responding and your help. Actually Dave from LL called me yesterday and I called their shop and spoke to Matt. Matt explained almost verbatim what you did ... as the suspected issue being the fuse holder. Unbelievably, Matt is traveling to Allentown (72+) miles from the LL shop to a diner 3 miles from my house and is bringing me a new fuse holder ... how is that even possible to work out like that. As you explained the replacement is very simple and I hope that does the trick. I will know sometime in the next hour, after I meet Matt and put in the replacement fuse holder.

Once again, thank you for your support, as well as Dave, Matt and all others for chiming in and I will let you know how it works out. I get the impression from those who monitor this forum and provide input that you fellow coal burners are a top notch class of people, who I am grateful to get to chat with. On that note, so when is the Annual PA Coal Burner's convention that we can all meet up and have a couple drinks and talk about our common interests?

I am not sure about other coal burner products, but I will recommend Leisure Line and the Coal-Trol systems to anyone who ever asks based not only on the quality products but for the top notch support! I only wish all other home appliances workmanship and support would be as good.

Regards,
Ryckee

I'll be selling my Reading Susquehanna this coming summer and upgrading to a big heat Leisure Line product. I don't know if it will be a boiler or furnace but with service like that I know who I will get my upgrade from.

If Leisure Line ever makes a hand fired unit I'll buy one of those too for the times there is no electricity.