Coffee 1-19-2013

Our kitchen is 12' x 6'! Unless you get between the dishwasher and the fridge ... then the 6' becomes a 1.5'.

009to090 wrote:Smitty, by chance, did you have that eye closed?

I used my right eye. That's the one with 20/120 vision.

I have never found the 12 foot width dimension to work.

I have a 12x24 woodworking shop and it just is not wide enough. By the time you have woodworking tools set up on each side of the shop, and some tools down the center for the long stuff...you are bumping your hips into things. It is the same way with our old kitchen. We could not have an island because you would bump your hips into it with cabinets on the outside or appliances. You can kind of see what I am talking about in the picture.

I would think 14 would be okay as that gives you another foot on each side of the center island/woodworking tool to work with, but 16 foot would be better.

We have a 12 x 12 foot spot that really will not be used for anything. It is used as a hearth at this time, but that is being located to a corner area of the new Great Room as Freetown Fred called it. We were thinking that with 4 girls, three of which are 5,6 and 8, that we could make for a mini-kitchen for them. A small refrigerator, a small breakfast bar, their easy-bake oven, and even a small microwave set up for them so that snacks, juice, milk etc can be kind of at their level and with appliances they could safely use to help ease the burden on Mom/Stepmom/Wife who will be inundated with the baby for a few years. A kitchen to a 6 year old is kind of imposing, but maybe with a mini-kitchen geared for them, they could do more for themselves. I thought the wife would nix that idea, but she loved it. So that is what we are thinking, but the priority for that is pretty low at the moment.

We're still trying to figure out how to place the ridge cap on that barn roof. Thinking of putting a ladder spreader on a ladder section and hooking it over the roof in a way that the 10' cap can be slid under it. I told the guy it would be worth it to run 2x4 x12' straps across the back side, down about 3 feet, to get a foothold. They could be screwed right in to the existing metal roof screw holes if they were backed out first. Very tough pitch to work on. I learned to work with the guy after almost coming to fisticuffs with him last year Sometime you have a fight with your friends or brothers I guess. He's a farmer, used to rigging things up economically.

You saw by my previous pics, even a metal roof can get peeled off by the wind. After the hell of Sandy, I got pretty good at weaving shingles. Only need two tools to do it right. Except for one roof I patched that had shingles glued down to themselves too well to loosen them. Those I cut the tabs and had to tar/glue in new tabs to make the patch look good. That roof was beat and was scheduled to be replaced by insurance. It seemed like all the standard roof nails were popping down through the old shingles; an example of why it's good practice to nail them down just tight enough, but not too tight. That's old school though, I guess everybody uses nail guns or staples these days. I like to have a caulk gun with tar caulk in it handy. With roof cement caulk tubes, no matter how hard I try to keep it off me, it always gets on me.

Same here Dan. When we did the porch here this past summer I bought a case of those tubes of tar and used at least half of them. The other half got on me. It's nearly as bad as that foam insulation in the can stuff. Impossible to get off clothing.

I try & save some old crap gas for that kind of stuff, Never Seize is another that I always get where I don't want it.

Yeah, whenever I use Never-Seize I end up looking like one of those paint huffers from the city. Silver stuff all over my hands, arms, face, pants.

Cops: "You been huffin' paint???"

Paint huffer covered in silver: "NOOOOOOOOO!"