I have this exact setup, Howudoin2427, only I used 2 large coils in series. I wish I had bought them from Thermocoil (I won't mention the crooks I bought mine from since you already made the correct choice) - you made an EXCELLENT choice there.
I hooked mine up that way for the exact reasons you want to. It just makes sense to me - why buy 2 of everything you already have?
Now .. there's too many variables to say it will work ... or it will not work. If I run a low fire on a cold day, even 2 coils won't produce enough heat for my 13' x 13' TV room with cathedral ceilings, and crap windows with poor insulation around them - never mind enough for DHW too. But, if I crank the stove up, once all the coal is burning bright, I'm amazed at how much heat they'll pick up. For example, when we had single digit temps and I was struggling to maintain 63° in the house, I turned the TV room t-stat down to 65° from 70° ... and once the fire was bright and burning I still had 190° boiler water. For this house that's downright amazing. Measuring temp with the infared, I had 160° water going in, and 240° water coming out. It doesn't always pick up that much heat, but when the stove's cranked up it sure does.
Now on the control aspect of it. Took me a while to learn the tricks. In that process, I melted my foam pipe insulation with 270°+ boiler temps.
You have to pay attention to the weather forecast and adjust accordingly, especially if your not going to be home all day. I have to fiddle with it depending on outside ambient and how much load is on the DHW. Some days when the boiler water starts heading over 230°, I'll crank the indirect boiler (for DHW) up to 150° to draw all that heat out of the boiler into the indirect tank for storage. Then I'll turn the stove down a 1/4 to a half turn to keep it in check. Requires a watchful eye. You have to think about power outages too - that can cause a major problem if your not home to deal with it.
EDIT: that circulator pictured is not needed. I plumbed it in because I didn't want to drain everything again and go through the trouble installing it if I needed it ... but it turned out since the stove is so close to the boiler, it circulates by convection no problem. I just had to manually open the check valve so hot water enters the boiler in reverse through the output, and cold water falls to the bottom and comes out the boiler drain and back into the coils completing the circuit.
A pic from a warm day:
Coils - these particular ones pictured here have since rotted away to nothing, requiring a battle with manufacturer over a warranty they REFUSED to honor:
The setup - water IN:
Coil #1 connection to coil #2:
Water OUT connection, with melted insulation