4" 26 gauge S.S. Stove pipe for direct vent

Hi all, had to shut down and clean the direct vent chimney, draft became an issue. In the process I had to cut a a short section of the 4" pipe that can not be reused, the hi temp calking worked really well. I am looking for a local source (Carbon or Schuylkill counties) to get this stove pipe but am having a difficult time finding it. I am limping by for now but need to get a new stove pipe ASAP. I tried a few local hardware stores and called Stoves n Stuff but have been unsuccessful Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks

Bill,
I usually get prefab sheetmetal components made by Gray Metal Products.
Here's what they gave me for dealers in your area:
RE Michel - Wilkes Barre 1-570-829-0383
RE Michel - Scranton 1-570-963-7880
Olympia Chimney 1-570-504-7152
Chapman Supply 1-570-586-1611

If they do not have the item readily available they know that they can order and have sipped direct.

Here's their catalog: http://www.graymetal.com/catalog/Gray%2 ... 7_2012.pdf
See pg 70.

Good luck!

The local HVAC supply house should have a quality commercial product.

I used 4" exhaust pipe from a school bus. My stepdad knows the sales people there and i got: 1 collar that fits over the d.v. port, 1 45 deg elbow, 1 90 deg elbow, 1 10' section of pipe and i think 3 4"to 4" connectors all for little over $100.00. I painted it high temp black and welded and high heat silicone on all seems. this stuff is the real deal and should outlast the furnace. I did use stainless once i went through the wall though.

Thanks for the information Coalen, looks like I will need to go with the prefab. I didn't realize that 4" ss stove pipe was not available. My question is why would they use this if it is so difficult to replace? I see 6" and 8" are readily available but not 4". You need to be able to clean this out so why use so much hi temp calking that you have to ruin the pipe to get it off?

your dealing with exhaust fumes so its an extra safety measure using the silicone. mine wont be coming apart as i just fish a 4" sweep down it when its time to clean.

with my set up there are 2, 90 degree elbows and a T so it would be difficult to push a brush through there without removing at least one elbow and that would just push the fly ash back into the stove. Besides I need to remove the direct vent attachment from the stove to clean the fan and stoker itself It seems to get clogged right at the shutter to adjust the draft. The stoker runs much smoother when it is clean. I also found stainless steel stove pipe at Mc-Master-carr but as expected it is not cheap. Which brigs up another question, why does my stoker have a galvanized elbow and not a SS elbow? I know it is galvanized because the $3.79 price sticker is still on it. Do you really need to use stainless steel?