New to Forum - installing old Alaska stoker

New to Forum - installing old Alaska stoker

PostBy: weigelbrood On: Tue Dec 18, 2007 12:02 am

Hey, All! Glad there is a forum to ask q's and get good answers.

I bought a used Alaska stoker stove that is about 10 years old. It appears to be a Channing, but I am not sure. It has 2 blowers and I am using the SWG powervent that came with it to vent it out of my basement window.

Due to a leaky and drafty basement in my 150 year old farm house, I am going to relocate the stove to my dining room which is fairly central in the house.

The pictures attached to this post show my stove and the interior of the firebox. I would like some input on its layout and if anything is missing!?

I have several questions which I hope you all can shed some light on:

Regarding draft control and barometric dampening...is it necessary to do any of this or is it just for more efficient burning. I would like to be as efficient as possible, but since it is already in the dead of winter here in Rochester, NY I will be happy if I can just reinstall the stove and get it running for now.

Is running the stove with the door open a terrible idea? It seems like it produces so much more heat with it open!!!

Referring to the photo of the interior of the stove...it appears that there should be some type of metal cowling for the gases to go up and around and down across the glass and then out the exhaust. Am I wrong?

I have more questions, but they may get answered as I continue to read other posts and as you answer these few. Thanks!
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This is my stove...custom painted by the previous owner...
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Do you see anything odd in this picture? Anything missing or added that should or should not be?
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Any idea what that rectangular brick is for it is about 2x1.5x5 inches and is in a neat holder, but its function is a mystery to me...
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weigelbrood
 

Re: New to Forum - installing old Alaska stoker

PostBy: WNY On: Tue Dec 18, 2007 10:19 am

First, Don't run it with the door open!! You will let CO into the room. Do you have a CO detector?? If not, get one.

Many stove do not have any internal plates or anything, they are just open as shown in your pictures.

Looks like it is working properly. The Brick may control some type of stove draft internally, it looks like it is part of the exhaust system. Maybe there is hole behind and you can adjust the opening for less draft on the bottom of the stove and it may pull some from the top? Not sure, I would leave it alone for now.

You may have to adjust your feed rate a bit and get a slightly bigger burn area to get more heat out of the stove. You should have 1/2-1" ash at the end without it pushing hot coals over the end to get max. heat out of the stove. maybe get a magnetic thermometer to measure the side temps and see what they are?

Do you have a blower to move heat into the room? Do you have a thermostat or rehostats to control the heat?

The DV or PV (direct/power vent) and Baro Damper (if you have one, if not, you should) so, you can adjust the draft on the stove to a proper setting (.02-.04). Without a Baro damper, you are wasing fuel and sending more hot air out your chimney.
WNY
 
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Keystoker 90K, Leisure Line Hyfire I
Coal Size/Type: Rice
Stove/Furnace Make: Keystoker, LL & CoalTrol
Stove/Furnace Model: 90K, Hyfire I, VF3000 Soon

Re: New to Forum - installing old Alaska stoker

PostBy: bksaun On: Tue Dec 18, 2007 12:27 pm

The brick is to be slid open for lighting the stove with a cold chimney thats not drawing hard, it lets the smoke go out the top of the stove, once the fire is going and drawing good, slide the brick closed.

BK
bksaun
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: Hybrid, Gentleman Janitor GJ-6RSU/ EFM 700
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Hitzer 503
Coal Size/Type: Pea Stoker/Bit, Pea or Nut Anthracite
Stove/Furnace Make: Hitzer/ EFM-Gentleman Janitor
Stove/Furnace Model: 503 Insert/ 700/GJ-62

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Re: New to Forum - installing old Alaska stoker

PostBy: weigelbrood On: Sat Dec 22, 2007 11:36 pm

I do have co2 detector and will not leave the door open. I do not currently have a baro damper but will get one before installing in the living space. You suggested I should have about 1" of ash, but I have about 4" before it drops into the ash pan. What might account for that? Too much combustion air, slow feed rate or? Thanks again for all your advice.
weigelbrood
 

Re: New to Forum - installing old Alaska stoker

PostBy: WNY On: Sun Dec 23, 2007 7:57 am

At Ilde you will will have much more, when really cranking, you should hvae about the 1" ash to optimum burning.
WNY
 
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Keystoker 90K, Leisure Line Hyfire I
Coal Size/Type: Rice
Stove/Furnace Make: Keystoker, LL & CoalTrol
Stove/Furnace Model: 90K, Hyfire I, VF3000 Soon

Visit Lehigh Anthracite