franco b wrote:You can use the stove without hopper. Will give you more radiation off the top without it. Those missing pieces appear to be part of the hopper setup. The stove will then be batch loading and you will lose the advantages of a hopper and burn time will be shorter than with and tending time a bit longer.
Place a 6 inch elbow or straight pipe on the stove outlet and drill hole on top and screw down. Fill gaps on bottom and sides with furnace cement. If you wish you can transition to 5 inch pipe or stay with 6 inch.
franco b wrote:I only burn wood to start a fire and when I do I hang a sheet metal plate over the open door opening to prevent the glass from sooting up. The plate can be removed when the wood reaches the charcoal stage. The plate is also used to hang in place to let the door cool enough to clean every few weeks.
The long narrow fire boxes in these stoves make wood burning more difficult though the wood will burn readily enough. The Surdiac is advertised to burn wood while the Franco Belge is not.
So yes burn wood if you protect the glass from getting smoked up and only figure a short duration fire of a few hours to chase the chill and not an all day fire. For a longer fire use kindling and then add a few scoops of coal.
I have no idea of the function of the steel plates for a wood fire but I would keep a wood fire a modest size and extend the burn with coal if wanted.
To re light yesterday's fire just slice the grate and scoop out a hollow in the middle and start a new fire.
In general when smoke pipe is connected to the inside of the flange it is to allow creosote to flow back into the stove and burn. I can't picture you burning that kind of smoky fire and I would not want creosote in the heat exchanger so would advise against it so where you mount the pipe makes no difference. You could slide a 5 inch elbow into that opening and secure with 2 or 3 screws and fill the much smaller gaps with furnace cement which will give a very strong, secure and airtight fitting.
Wow over 90% efficiency! That is amazing! I wasn't sure if the Franco Belge also have a heat exchanger too. I am really eager to get this baby burning! I know that these stoves call for pea coal, however I don't have any pea. Of course I have rice for my alaska, but I also have about 30 gallons of nut. So I will try that first and keep a close eye on it so it doesn't over burn. Looking at the grates, I don't think rice coal would stay above the grates. It is just too small.franco b wrote:Regarding efficiency. Yes I do believe these stoves are as efficient as claimed. Those numbers are from government testing labs. The German DIN lab found the Franco Belge to be over 90 percent efficient. I think the numbers for the Surdiac were from a French lab.
The reasons for the high efficiency are:
Shallow fire box enclosed within the body of the stove to lessen heat loss from that fire box. Being shallow and of low capacity it has to be run hotter thus burning more of initial gasses and carbon monoxide that would go un- burnt in other designs.
Pre-conditioned coal from the hopper that feeds hot coal at charging time, some of which is already coke and the rest rapidly reaches ignition temperature which lessens the lower efficiency recovery time.
Extensive heat exchange area to keep stack temperatures low.
The efficiency comes at the cost of much shorter tending intervals. About 8 hours instead of 12. Actual outputs are lower than claimed by the importers.
The antique base heaters reach their high efficiency by:
A round brick lined fire box which by its nature is more effective in distributing air more evenly than other shapes. The brick lining lowers heat loss in the fire box keeping it hotter for better more complete combustion. The depth of the fire box allows extended tending times.
The extended flue passages make for more efficient heat exchange by better utilizing all of the stoves surfaces.
The design I like best, though never tried myself, is the design of William's Glenwood no. 9. The flue gas is routed down around the fully enclosed fire box to the base and then up and out. Fire box temperatures should be really high for complete burn yet still retain heat exchange efficiency.
No you can't load wood in a Surdiac above the the glass in the door. If you want to burn wood there are much better stoves to do it.
joeq wrote:Congratulations (?) on your acquisition of your Surdiac. Now there're 2 of us in the same boat! I've got the smaller Surdiac (513), and if you want to see my concerns, go to my profile page and check out my posts. A lot of people here have given some good advice. I wouldn't even consider trying to burn wood, even with the hopper removed. Don't think it would throw any heat, due to the design, and the size of the box. But to make it run properly, you'll need to acquire all the missing pieces. Won't work trying to cut corners. When set up exactly as specified, it'll work well with-in the limitations of the stove itself. You need to decide what you actually want out of it, before you go spending any time or money on it.
2DeXtreMe wrote:On a cold day (low 20's high teens), how many pounds of coal do you go through? What is your average main floor (floor where the stove is located) temperature? How many pounds of coal can your firebox hold (minus hopper)?
I plan on mounting a 6" tee on the stove's outlet flange, while capping the bottom of the tee and running six feet of pipe on the top of the tee and then a 90 elbow into the wall thimble. Should I go with the tee as plan or another elbow instead? I like the tee better because I can knock on the pipes a few times to knock some of the ash and clean out the pipes by removing the bottom cap off the tee. Which way would you go?
joeq wrote:Congratulations (?) on your acquisition of your Surdiac. Now there're 2 of us in the same boat! I've got the smaller Surdiac (513), and if you want to see my concerns, go to my profile page and check out my posts. A lot of people here have given some good advice. I wouldn't even consider trying to burn wood, even with the hopper removed. Don't think it would throw any heat, due to the design, and the size of the box. But to make it run properly, you'll need to acquire all the missing pieces. Won't work trying to cut corners. When set up exactly as specified, it'll work well with-in the limitations of the stove itself. You need to decide what you actually want out of it, before you go spending any time or money on it. (I thought this site provided access to others posts. I guess not .sorry)